I use Foam Pads with a Makita Rotary, and clean them during the correction process, with a small white cotton towel that is in the cart. After every pass series on that spot, I wipe the white towel over the pad several times, and look at what came off on the towel, to help me know what is happening on the paint better.
I also like to keep the product and pad a little moist by spraying a little pad conditioner on it, before I start the work.. Chemical Guys makes a Pad Conditioner product, but its not sold in the Autopia Store.. Perhaps Autogeek has it ?
I like to keep it all a little moist to allow the product, paint, and pad, more time to get acquainted with each other, and have found this process always gives me great results. And I never get dusting from dried product all over the work..
This also helps keep the pad temperature at a more even level, and that of course helps keep the paint temperature the same more even temp..
Technique -- I always run the pad with the product and a little moisture on the panel as long as possible, sometimes, I have to add a little more moisture if I think its ending too soon.. I want to break down the product as much as possible to get the most benefit from it.
The surface of that spot should be clearing up to the point that there is very little product on the spot..
I get the Pad to clean up all the stuff as much as possible at the end,, so there will be very little wiping needed and lessen the possibility of introducing more work to your work..
Then, as already said, wipe the foam pad down really well with a white cotton towel, look at the panel, decide if you need to go again, or move to the next spot on the panel..
I wash all pads in a cleaner made for foam pads by the very people that make the foam pads.. Snappy Clean powder... https://www.autopia-carcare.com/snap...l#.W1esINXFj3g Never had a problem with it.. If its a lot of pads, I use the entire envelope in around 3-4 gallons of water in the bucket.. Less pads, perhaps half an envelope in 2.5-3 gallons of water..
You want to wear long gloves when cleaning, which will be holding them under, squeezing them several times, to help release the product, then perhaps turning them up in the water and using two hands, rubbing them against themselves to help loosen the product..
A lot of squeezing them under the solution, then when clean, rinsing them in a bucket of clean water or in the sink.. Have to really rinse them clean of all soap, etc... Snappy Clean is a no foaming product, which makes for less rinsing anyway...
I just set them on end in an empty cart in the garage to air dry... Can take 24+ hours or more depending on temps out there...
I tried microfiber when they first came out almost 15 years ago, and wasn`t too impressed by all the extra work they took to keep them clean; they seemed to wear out quickly, and they never finished down to near LSP ready.. And you had to have an air hose, fittings, air compressor, water trap, lines, extra 20amp outlet and extra 20amp breaker in your power panel, and the noise it makes when it turns on all the time.. Then there is dust blowing all over the place when you clean the pads.. And you have to carry the air hose around the entire vehicle with you..
Everyone here will have different results and processes to accomplish the same goal - great correction, clarity, gloss, in the shortest amount of time - especially if one is doing this for a living every day..
You will just have to figure out where you want to be in this and I promise you that you will be able to get great results if you put in the time and work..
Dan F
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