5” backing plate- ideal pad size?

[Striker]

5” backing plate going on Makita rotary. About to order some Hydro Tech pads and I’m wondering which size I should order them in?

I’m guessing a 6.5” will be a bit larger then ideal or?

Thanks!


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[RaysWay]

On a 5" bp the 6.5 pads will be a little too big for my liking. You won`t be able to apply pressure evenly. Also the 6.5" pads are thicker and will be awkward on a 5" bp.

Go with the 5.5 inch pads, it`s a perfect fit.

I know buying pads can be confusing sometimes since some manufacturers measure the face of the pad while others measure the backing material.

Btw I`m a big fan of the 6" bp and 6.5" Hydro Tech setup on my Makita.

[Striker]

Yes I was told by lake country themselves that the hydrofoams are awesome on a rotary. Also Dan on here told me the same deal!


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[RaysWay]

They are awesome on rotary. Dan speaks the truth lol.

[Striker]

I just placed my order. Got six pads in total. The crimson, tangerine and cyan.

Should be good. Can’t wait to see how it finishes off with the menz 3500/3800 on black


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[Stokdgs]

Striker - I really like Menzerna 3500 and 3800.. I only use the Lake Country 5" Backing Plate and the 5.5" sized pads for everything..
Only time bigger sizes come out is if its a big, flat, van, etc., or a dang airplane...

Sounds like a great plan - be sure you have enough pads for the project..
I always use a lot of pads to get the correction done and then not as many if I need to refine it.
But with Hydro`s they finish so well, that sometimes, one pad color will do it all just beautifully..

Looks like you have 2 each Cyan and 2 each Tangerine.. Hope that is enough...
Well, I guess it depends on how much you are doing and how dirty the paintwork is after a good wash and claybar/towel/etc., prep work...

The Makita with Hydro`s is an awesome combination for me on everything..
Just keep the work just moist enough so that it works down, then gets clearer and clearer, and just about all goes away...
To keep it moist, I just hit it with the same pad conditioner, I put on the pad to get it ready before I apply the Menzerna...
You are using good pressure, a little direct drive speed, and this will work great but may create more heat faster, so you have to balance it out with a little moisture if needed..
Be sure to wipe the pad face off with a nice clean cotton towel and that will help the pad work better and last longer..

I never have issues, swirls, holograms, etc., in the paint afterward, doing it this way...
All my vehicles come out perfectly clear and glossy under Scangrip lights or sunlight...
Get a good pad cleaner, I am afraid you do not have enough pads, unless you have extra ones already..
Good luck with this - its going to be fun !!!
Dan F

[Striker]

I bought the three pack from AG that comes with all three hydro tech pads. As I was checking out I was going to order another two of he cyan pads but we will see.

My mustang is a single stage black car. But it needs minimal work to just get some of the light marring off and that’s about it.


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[Striker]

Dan what would you recommend for combos?

What colour hydrotech with which menzerna ?

Thanks in advance.


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[Stokdgs]

Dan what would you recommend for combos?

What colour hydrotech with which menzerna ?

Thanks in advance.


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Striker,
Can`t really recommend a combo without seeing the paintwork first, but if I was just going to try something that needed correcting, any Black color or type paint, would always get a Cyan pad and whatever compound or polish I felt or had experience in working that same paint..

You don`t have a lot of pads or product to experiment with, so would go Tangerine since its the finer of the 2 working pads, and 3800.
If it did not respond, I would clean it off the pad, and keeping the same pad, put some 3500 on there and use more downward pressure and longer and see how it finishes down..

Trying the finer Menzerna first on the pad allows you to go up to stronger compound and it will be ok, but you cannot start higher grit and come down to finer grit on the same pad and not have some leftover higher grit in the pad...
Of course, if you have lots of pads - like 6+ of each - then it is a moot point...

You are the only one who knows your paint the best.. It may come to you to use the Cyan to start and it for sure, corrects very nicely; use downward pressure, keep it all moist, it will all disappear when its done, and see if you like the correction, clarity, and gloss...

I hardly ever use the Crimson pad because its an extra step and I can get amazing clarity and gloss with at the most, a couple of steps as it is... Perhaps sometimes, I might apply a Sealant or something like that with a crimson, but then that pad is forever going to have to be used for that, because all those LSP`s are really hard to remove from pads anyway..
Good Luck with this !
Dan F

[SWETM]

@Dan What pad conditioner do you use?

You make me more and more intrested to get a rotary polisher lol. I have looked at the new Rupes LH19E rotary polisher since it came out last fall here in Sweden. The price point on it is very valueble for an example it`s 180$ cheaper than the Flex pe14-2 rotary polisher. Sure the Makita and dewalt is cheaper than the Rupes LH19E with 80$. But really like the specs that Rupes LH19E has.

Generally what speeds do you have when working with the 5.5" pads? Or is it much situation based. But is more low speed as under 1000rpm or is it high speed polishing? Then I understand that with 5.5" pads you may be useing a little higher rpm than say 6.5-8" pads.

At the OP. Will be intresting to hear what results you are getting. And if possible share your work with write up and pictures. Would be nice to see.

/Tony

[Stokdgs]

@Dan What pad conditioner do you use?

You make me more and more intrested to get a rotary polisher lol. I have looked at the new Rupes LH19E rotary polisher since it came out last fall here in Sweden. The price point on it is very valueble for an example it`s 180$ cheaper than the Flex pe14-2 rotary polisher. Sure the Makita and dewalt is cheaper than the Rupes LH19E with 80$. But really like the specs that Rupes LH19E has.

Generally what speeds do you have when working with the 5.5" pads? Or is it much situation based. But is more low speed as under 1000rpm or is it high speed polishing? Then I understand that with 5.5" pads you may be useing a little higher rpm than say 6.5-8" pads.

At the OP. Will be intresting to hear what results you are getting. And if possible share your work with write up and pictures. Would be nice to see.

/Tony

Hello mi Amigo, Tony !
I hope all is good at your home with you and your family !

Years ago I got a great deal on Chemical Guy`s Pad Conditioner in gallon sizes, so I purchased a bunch and still have it.. It`s nothing special, probably a QD as well, but for my pads, and I have used it on many, it works great, does not add or do anything bad to the work, damage the pad, and does its job, keep the work just moist enough to get the product, pad, and paint, to know each other really well, and then, everything mostly goes away from the paint and I never have a lot of wipe off after..

You would want to get the small spacer for the Makita or whatever Rotary you purchase, and it will allow the machine to get into smaller spaces and also not be in the way of you seeing what is going on from your vantage point..

Yes, I only use 5.5 pads or smaller (when I see just that 1 little scratch that could use a little more work ), and love that I can get near a lot of things easier and have less of a pad to keep track of and not hit things with it accidently..

I hardly ever go past 1,000rpm, there is no need to in my process, and I always get what the Client is paying for and what I want, well, plus a little extra..

The soft start from the first speed of 600rpm on the Makita is outstanding; I always use that speed to get everything acquainted, and never have sling issues..
The only time I will go past 1,000 rpm is with very dirty paint on very dirty big things including Airplanes, using Lake Country Purple Foam Wool pads and product like Meguiars 105 Compound..

The Makita is made or at least mine was, in Japan.. It is a beast, nothing slows it down in this type of work.. Brushes last forever.. They are easily replaced.. I think the newest model may be lighter and perhaps have an improved motor...
My machine with the small spacer, 5" backing plate, weighs in around 10lbs..
I only use a side handle on it and not the one that curves over the head at the top..
I learned as a kid with the side handle and after taking a few classes in school, somehow really understood the word - leverage - and decided that I was getting the best leverage from that side handle, and to me better balance, and have never used those top wrap around handles that come with every machine...
Believe that for me anyway, having the weight and the force of the machine spinning with downward pressure from me, balanced at the 2 outward planes, it is much easier to manage all these things and distribute them across my upper body better so there is less fatigue as well..

I have a couple of Flex Rotaries as well ! Bought them years ago when they first came out, mostly as back up for the Makita..
They are smaller, lighter, make a lot of gear noise, and are ok, but I want more weight on the panel in addition to the downward force I give it, and less noise... Lovely machines, more expensive, I am sure they will never break down either, but again, decades of using big heavy machines and getting them to work for me and not against me, see no need to change to lighter, smaller, noisier machines..

Also have one of the first Flex 3401VRG Forced Random Orbitals.. had to try it when it first came out, it`s also nice, have the smaller backing plate on it for 5.5" pads, the counter-clockwise rotation is different, but manageable, is not direct drive, I hardly ever use it either, but have it if I want to apply say, a Sealant, Glaze, etc., quickly and not have worry about doing anything that requires extra work, etc...

The Makita will be a little workout, and as I have said before, do this for a few years and your will have very strong hands and bigger forearms, etc...
Dan F

[Striker]

I did go with menz 2500/3000/3500/3800 as well. This way I can keep the summer toys looking the prettiest once a year with the 3500/3800s and the first two for more serious work.

When I acquired my mustang, it was hardly black due to 20 plus years of it never having more then a hand buff.

Needless to say, the results were fantastic. My detailing friend didn’t think I could bring the paint back to life, but I think it turned out OK.

The final pass was done with 85rd and a large light blue 3m finishing pad at a high speed on the Makita then working down to a lower speed.
















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[Stokdgs]

Holy Cow ! Great work, Striker !!!
That paint looked totally dead !!!

I still have some PO85RD and PO106FA - very cool stuff for that last bit of Clarity and Gloss if you needed it..
Glad to read you have the full line in the newer bottles and naming convention... I have all of them too..

Reminds me of a couple of 2001 and 2002 Jet Black M5`s that were actually, that flat, gray, color you had on your Mustang... Had never, ever been touched except with the nasty Brown Bear-Dirty-Bear-Butt- Brushes Car Wash at the Chevron Station in Bellevue, WA...

Turned them into Black Rolling Mirrors, when done..
Nothing more beautiful than Jet Black, perfectly polished, clear, glossy, dust-free (for that moment), paintwork - ever -

Love that big drain under your car in your garage..
Dan F

[Striker]

Wish that was my garage my friend lol

Now for the exciting parts! I’m bored and I’d like to go LSP shopping for my two summer babies.

I have souveran, p21s and collinite.

The never ending search for the shiniest!


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[SWETM]

Awesome work Striker!

Thanks Dan for your detailed answer!
Why I`m looking on rotary polisher is because I have nervedamage on the spinalcord. It`s both in the neck and lower back that causes pain that rays out to the hands and feets. So looking for the least wearing polisher experience. And the 21mm longthrow polisher I have has some vibrations that are aggressive to the nervedamage. And a rotary polisher I think in the vibration is better than DA. So a mix of the rotary polisher and a DA I think could suit me well.

Hope you and your family is feeling all well too. Me and my family is good and tries to handle what life throws at us as good as we can.

/Tony