Finishing with a DA vs Rotary

[Lonnie]

I hate to jack this thread, BUT since this thread is about finishing down with a dual action orbital versus a rotary polisher, my question is;
Can you jewel/burnish with a large-throw DA or are the results best with a rotary??

I know that jeweling is not that common anymore. And it seems to me that there are only two polishes that lend themselves to jeweling: 3Ms UltraFina and Menzerna`s Super Finish 3800. I suppose HD`s Adapt and a LC blue pad could be considered here for that purpose.

Any thoughts??

[jrock645]

Why only 2 polishes for jeweling?

[Stokdgs]

Its high time I get my Flex off the shelf again.
Dan, what speed you normally compound at? You use 105 a lot, right? That Hyper Polish is good stuff

I learned at an early age when the paint was basically acrylic lacquers and enamels, and the speeds then were high to work the old-school products quickly, so the Painter could get to the next job..

Over the decades, I have had the absolute best success with slower speeds, letting the newer technology compounds and foam pad products work longer and finish down most of the time, good enough to go to LSP..

The speeds that work best for my current set up - Makita 9227C, Lake Country yellow 5" backing plate, 5.5" Lake Country Hydro-Tech Cyan Foam pads, and the compound of my choice starts at
lowest start up of 600 rpm to get everything acquainted and spread out so there is no Sling, and runs up to 1000 rpm sometimes a little higher if I want to speed up the process, but always making sure that I keep just enough moisture on the pad so that everything (compound and paintwork), gets a thorough workout, using sometimes a lot of downward pressure (because the paint is very hard, or very scratched, etc.,), sometimes less downward pressure - but there is always downward pressure on the paint...

My demands of myself are to get the product worked correctly for that paintwork that day, get absolutely no Sling or Dusting, and most importantly, get as much clarity and gloss as can be had for the time paid for by the Client...

And yes, I always, just give it a little more extra, because I love what Im doing, I love to see all vehicles look their best, and yes, it all has to Match, panel to panel..

I have used a lot of Meguiars 105 since it was first invented, then Meguiars 101, sneaked in to the USA from Belgium, before it was officially sold here, ( I know, the things we do..), Meguiars 205, and all of the Menzerna Line of Compounds and Polishes, since I did several hundred German cars of all makes for awhile when I lived in WA...

Meguiars 105 was an interesting product back then as it was kind of thick and would work for a few minutes and then dry up suddenly, and turn into a big mess, slinging sometimes product and for sure a lot of dust everywhere..

I experimented with it and found it just needed a little more moisture to keep it working longer and then it would easily correct and finish down incredibly well with no issues once it got past that first dry-out hiccup...

I got into the Optimum line when they first came on board and tried their Compound and it was ok, but I really liked their Hyper Polish once I got it out of that dang spray bottle messy-ness..
Just remember that Optimum compounds and polishes keep working and dont break down, but worked correctly, they will consistently give me great results..

I usually pick up Menzerna for most things to get a really good correction quickly..

Have also used a lot of Sonax Perfect Finish - an incredibly talented compound that initially, got a lot of positive press, and then a huge blow up because it was discovered that it contained fillers and a lot of people stuck their nose up in the air and said "never in my shop, etc.," and thats fine; to each their own...

I liked that it really worked easily and even though it had fillers, it really worked well on a lot of vehicles in my Shop that NEVER came back full of defects that were hidden by the fillers, so that is my experience with that product line..

As with everything you do, if you really want to be as accurate as possible, a good IPA wipedown after a compound or polish should be able to help you see what is really on the panel - just be sure you dont scratch it, applying and removing the IPA or CarPro Eraser, etc., product, ok ?

Good Luck !
Dan F

[Accumulator]

Lonnie- Some might call the Cyclo a "long throw" machine, and that`s what I`ve used for jeweling/burnishing with great results.

IMO there are a number of Finishing Polishes that`ll work fine for this. All we`re *really* doing is ramping up the level of finish beyond the step where we leave the finish basically marring-free. I`ve been happy with 1Z High Gloss and HD Polish. Depending on how hard/soft the paint is, lots of different products/pads would work fine for this.

[Detailology Oz]

I use a non diminishing and diminishing in one product from my chem facility as my jewelling polish for da and rotary
it never dries out and I spread it out at 200 then go to 900 and then 650,500, 350 and back to 200
i also jewel with my paint sealant as it has a non abrasive powder in there and Is a non filling glaze

Works fine with some polish too
i don`t jewel much, only higher end services.

[Lonnie]

Lonnie- Some might call the Cyclo a "long throw" machine, and that`s what I`ve used for jeweling/burnishing with great results.

IMO there are a number of Finishing Polishes that`ll work fine for this. All we`re *really* doing is ramping up the level of finish beyond the step where we leave the finish basically marring-free. I`ve been happy with 1Z High Gloss and HD Polish. Depending on how hard/soft the paint is, lots of different products/pads would work fine for this.

Cyclo?; now there`s a machine that has fallen into the back pages Autopia history. Seems to me much respected Autopian Scottwax`s Avatar picture was of him polishing with a Cyclo.
Like you say, Accumulator, experience, and I am sure some experimentation, has taught you which polishes and pads combinations and techniques work on what paints and colors.
I guess there is no "magic formula" for jeweling.

That`s one of the reason`s I subscribe to this forum and read these post from fellow Autopians who are will to share their experience for my benefit.

[RaysWay]

Like you say, Accumulator, experience, and I am sure some experimentation, has taught you which polishes and pads combinations and techniques work on what paints and colors.
I guess there is no "magic formula" for jeweling.

That`s one of the reason`s I subscribe to this forum and read these post from fellow Autopians who are will to share their experience for my benefit.

Yep! And one of the reasons why we need shelves full of different products. Some days I`ll run into paint that my "go-to" products just flat out don`t work on.

[Detailology Oz]

I don`t have shelves of different polishes, I have 15 products all up or everything as a pro and that`s it. Liquid wise anyway
3 abrasive polishes, two toppings

[Lonnie]

Yep! And one of the reasons why we need shelves full of different products..... .

Don`t tell that to my wife who does not `understand" the concept of " there`s a right tool for every job" (or in this case a car-care chemical). In her defense, however, to use a $25.00 tool ONCE (or not at all, like many of my tools) is a waste of money. I must admit, I am not the most mechanically-inclined person, BUT I do have the tools (and car-care chemical collection).

I quote Phyllis Diller`s statement about her husband Fang: "If you put a hammer in Fang`s hands, you have roughly two objects with the same IQ!"

[tropicsteve]

I like rotaries because of how smoothly they can operate, but as always, the threat of burn through is greater if you don`t keep the pad flat and moving. slower speeds work best for me. dan did make a typo above in that rotaries actually turn faster towards the center of the pad, not slower. that area will definitely heat up and burn through faster if you`re not careful.

[RaysWay]

I don`t have shelves of different polishes, I have 15 products all up or everything as a pro and that`s it. Liquid wise anyway
3 abrasive polishes, two toppings

Which 3 abrasive polishes and two toppings do you use?

[Accumulator]

Cyclo?; now there`s a machine that has fallen into the back pages Autopia history. Seems to me much respected Autopian Scottwax`s Avatar picture was of him polishing with a Cyclo

Yeah, Scott used one for a while.

I`d thought that with Rupes buying Cyclo Toolmakers the good ol` Cyclo might get more attention..but no, doesn`t look that way.

Other than not accomodating certain contours and not being the most aggressive thing for *serious* correction, the Cyclo is simply superb. Best built electric tool I`ve ever had of any kind, period. Easy as can be to use, even one-handed (I once recommended the Cyclo for a guy who only had one arm).

[Detailology Oz]

Their mark v products, I talk to the chemist regularly.
Under rated brand, the chemist is extremely good there

[WhyteWizard]

Their mark v products, I talk to the chemist regularly.
Under rated brand, the chemist is extremely good there

If you`re talking about Robert, yes, he`s one of the best.

Robert, but not the one I`m referring to.

[Detailology Oz]

Yep that`s him.