Random thoughts on pad selection

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

Good post bud...



What do you use as your zero bit pad?



I`m asking as I tend to use the same `methods` as you except I use Meg`s 9006 pad as my `zero bite pad`... I`ve only once or twice had to go to a black LC pad to finish down better than with 9006 and both times it was on Porsche paint... one was 200x ccd one was ss 94 or 95.



The pad selection process for me goes basically like this...



Always start with M80/8006 (unless I know/think the paint is very soft, like previous mentioned Porsche paint, few Nissans, etc. then I start with M80/9006)... starting with this combo tells me a lot because this is a combo that can easily finish down LSP ready even on some medium to soft paints, but also can cut some serious defects with proper pressure and on most paints...



Depending on how the M80/8006 step goes, I`m either going to M80/PFW or M95/PFW or M80/9006... I rarely use M80/PFW because M95, just like M105 (which I haven`t perfected yet as many have, SuperBee being one, so I don`t use it much on rotary) finishes down great while taking care of some serious defects, and can easily be `cleaned up` with M80/9006.... obviously M80/9006 is if the paint is on the softer side and I see M80/8006 correcting a lot/everything...



I rarely use a `pure` jeweling step as I rarely get those 3-5 step details where I can take my sweet time perfecting the paint, but when I do, or when working on very soft paint as a 2nd/final step, I`ll usually go with M09/9006, M09/LC black, FPII/9006 or 85rd/black... I use M09 on some regulars` vehicles that I don`t want to remove much paint since I do maintenance polishing 1-2 times per year at least, so I go for very light `correction` and hiding the rest (yes they know haha)...



In short, I`ve narrowed down most of my details to LC PFW, Meg`s 8006, 9006 and M80, M95... going a bit further I would add FPII and M09 as well as black LC pad...



If I had to choose only a couple pads and polishes, I`d easily go for M95, M80, PFW and M8006 & 9006

[SuperBee364]

Good post bud...



What do you use as your zero bit pad?



I`m asking as I tend to use the same `methods` as you except I use Meg`s 9006 pad as my `zero bite pad`... I`ve only once or twice had to go to a black LC pad to finish down better than with 9006 and both times it was on Porsche paint... one was 200x ccd one was ss 94 or 95.



The pad selection process for me goes basically like this...



Always start with M80/8006 (unless I know/think the paint is very soft, like previous mentioned Porsche paint, few Nissans, etc. then I start with M80/9006)... starting with this combo tells me a lot because this is a combo that can easily finish down LSP ready even on some medium to soft paints, but also can cut some serious defects with proper pressure and on most paints...



Depending on how the M80/8006 step goes, I`m either going to M80/PFW or M95/PFW or M80/9006... I rarely use M80/PFW because M95, just like M105 (which I haven`t perfected yet as many have, SuperBee being one, so I don`t use it much on rotary) finishes down great while taking care of some serious defects, and can easily be `cleaned up` with M80/9006.... obviously M80/9006 is if the paint is on the softer side and I see M80/8006 correcting a lot/everything...



I rarely use a `pure` jeweling step as I rarely get those 3-5 step details where I can take my sweet time perfecting the paint, but when I do, or when working on very soft paint as a 2nd/final step, I`ll usually go with M09/9006, M09/LC black, FPII/9006 or 85rd/black... I use M09 on some regulars` vehicles that I don`t want to remove much paint since I do maintenance polishing 1-2 times per year at least, so I go for very light `correction` and hiding the rest (yes they know haha)...



In short, I`ve narrowed down most of my details to LC PFW, Meg`s 8006, 9006 and M80, M95... going a bit further I would add FPII and M09 as well as black LC pad...



If I had to choose only a couple pads and polishes, I`d easily go for M95, M80, PFW and M8006 & 9006

Gret information, lecchilo. I haven`t used a few of those combos and they sound very good. More stuff to try...



I have quite a few different zero bite pads. I have a few of the really big 3M Ultrafina pads (the blue ones), some LC grey, black, and red, a Megs Soft Buff 2.0 Black (which I *really* like. It`s a great pad for KBM`ing), and Edge 2k six inch red wave foam, and last but not least... Edge 2k six inch white finishing wool, which I only use on harder clears.

[Jason M]

I never really liked M80 on a 9006 pad. Almost like the pad was too soft to break M80 down well. Before I started using M205 I would finish with M80 on an 8006 pad. On soft paints or if I wanted to final polish the paint more I would use M09 on a 9006 pad. That was a combo that is one of my favorites for finishing and something that I still would like to try after M205. I`ve been leery as of yet since M205 finishes so clear and sharp. I might buff on my car this weekend and maybe I`ll give it a go.

[scary bill]

It seems that most of the vehicles I have needed to correct were not really bad. It could be that I am really anal-retentive about my washing. I say that because to "fix" my trucks usually takes 1-2 passes with OP and a LC white. I usually follow that with UF on a LC blue pad to finish and get all the gloss I can.



I have tried using a few polishes with the LC blue and the only one I get good results with is UF. I get horrible trails using OP or M82. Most likely my fault though. The strange thing is, on both of my Ford trucks OP on LC white finishes with almost no holos, they are really hard to spot.



On the few trashed cars I have buffed, the PFW corrected well, but left swirls behind that took OHC on LC white then UF to fix. I tried a few of the compounds I had, I might have to look into M105 for the big jobs.

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

Anyone not getting the hang of M105 on rotary should definitely try M95... I haven`t used M105 enough via rotary to compare exactly how much each cuts, but M95 with PFW gets `everything` out for me on rotary... it`s easily finished up with M80/white/8006/9006 or even 106ff on some paints.

[scary bill]

M95 acts more like a traditional compound, right?

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

M95 acts more like a traditional compound, right?

Yes it does

[Bert]

if I need more correction, I`ll stick with the M105, and increase the aggressiveness of the pad to, say, an Edge 2K yellow wool. If even that isn`t enough, I`ll go up to a black Edge wool. At this point, if I`m still not getting enough cut, I`ll change to a more aggressive compound and go back to the PFW.

What are you using that is more aggressive than Black Edge Wool and 105? That is a serious combo.

[Darkstar752]

That would be great, I haven`t seen any posts about those pads.



Thanks for the responses and input, guys, good stuff.

The Detailers Domain pads are fantastic, at least the Blue(light polish), Green(med polish), and Black ones. Don`t like the orange, way too stiff, but the blue and green are really nice.



I tried your method, but didn`t see a difference. But I think it was because I was working on silver metallic paint that I had already hit twice with PO85RD and a blue pad. I only did one spot. I`ll test it more extensively on the black car I have coming up.

[SuperBee364]

What are you using that is more aggressive than Black Edge Wool and 105? That is a serious combo.

Beach sand, aka 3M Extra Cut.



There`s a few compounds out there with more chops than 105, but they don`t finish down *nearly* as well as 105 does.

[scary bill]

Yes it does

Well, I`m torn. I`ll have to wait to buy more goodies, I have plenty at the moment. I should be able to make up my mind by then.