Good post bud...
What do you use as your zero bit pad?
I`m asking as I tend to use the same `methods` as you except I use Meg`s 9006 pad as my `zero bite pad`... I`ve only once or twice had to go to a black LC pad to finish down better than with 9006 and both times it was on Porsche paint... one was 200x ccd one was ss 94 or 95.
The pad selection process for me goes basically like this...
Always start with M80/8006 (unless I know/think the paint is very soft, like previous mentioned Porsche paint, few Nissans, etc. then I start with M80/9006)... starting with this combo tells me a lot because this is a combo that can easily finish down LSP ready even on some medium to soft paints, but also can cut some serious defects with proper pressure and on most paints...
Depending on how the M80/8006 step goes, I`m either going to M80/PFW or M95/PFW or M80/9006... I rarely use M80/PFW because M95, just like M105 (which I haven`t perfected yet as many have, SuperBee being one, so I don`t use it much on rotary) finishes down great while taking care of some serious defects, and can easily be `cleaned up` with M80/9006.... obviously M80/9006 is if the paint is on the softer side and I see M80/8006 correcting a lot/everything...
I rarely use a `pure` jeweling step as I rarely get those 3-5 step details where I can take my sweet time perfecting the paint, but when I do, or when working on very soft paint as a 2nd/final step, I`ll usually go with M09/9006, M09/LC black, FPII/9006 or 85rd/black... I use M09 on some regulars` vehicles that I don`t want to remove much paint since I do maintenance polishing 1-2 times per year at least, so I go for very light `correction` and hiding the rest (yes they know haha)...
In short, I`ve narrowed down most of my details to LC PFW, Meg`s 8006, 9006 and M80, M95... going a bit further I would add FPII and M09 as well as black LC pad...
If I had to choose only a couple pads and polishes, I`d easily go for M95, M80, PFW and M8006 & 9006
Bookmarks