I`m thinking of a Rotary - Advice needed.

[imported_SHICKS]

Hi-



Well I have been here over 2 years and have had a PC almost as long. I am impressed with the rusults I get with my PC, but there are instances where I want to work faster and remove more of the defects on my 2 cars.



My questions are,



1. Do I need a Rotary? I really only polish my 2 cars every spring and do a few friends and family car`s throughout the year. My cars are 90-95% defect free, some deeper etching on my grey BMW I cannot remove with a PC, I might not want to try with a Rotary.



2. Which Rotary to get for a beginner rotary user? I would like to purchase at Home D. or Lowes.



Thanks,

Steve

[joyriiide1113]

Get it. Its a really good tool. When using common sense, and following some of the basics the only real hard part of rotory polishing is leaving a buffer trail/halo free finish. Until then, you can always followup most of the polishing/correction with the PC.



I can most of the time leave a perfect finish using a finishing pad and 106ff but sometimes, I require the PC.



Practice makes perfect I guess, but do not be afraid of trying the rotory.



1. Keep speeds below 1200 rpms while you`re elarning

2. avoid trim and tape it up, It burns really easily

3. avoid edges, as thats where most paints are their thinnist

4. keep the machine moving. like 4-8 inches per second

5. Avoid wool pads as they actually cut into the paint.



Those were some of the must follow rules I used when I grabbed the rotory last year.



I have experience with 2 different machine. The Makita and the Dewalt. To me, I prefer the makita simply for its quiet motor and lightweight.

[imported_SHICKS]

Thanks, what is the model # for the makita? Can I use my PC backing plate and pads?



Steve

Get it. Its a really good tool. When using common sense, and following some of the basics the only real hard part of rotory polishing is leaving a buffer trail/halo free finish. Until then, you can always followup most of the polishing/correction with the PC.



I can most of the time leave a perfect finish using a finishing pad and 106ff but sometimes, I require the PC.



Practice makes perfect I guess, but do not be afraid of trying the rotory.



1. Keep speeds below 1200 rpms while you`re elarning

2. avoid trim and tape it up, It burns really easily

3. avoid edges, as thats where most paints are their thinnist

4. keep the machine moving. like 4-8 inches per second

5. Avoid wool pads as they actually cut into the paint.



Those were some of the must follow rules I used when I grabbed the rotory last year.



I have experience with 2 different machine. The Makita and the Dewalt. To me, I prefer the makita simply for its quiet motor and lightweight.

[Accumulator]

I got the Makita 9227CY.



Rotaries take a different backing plate than the PC, but it`s an industry-standard size threaded mount, so you have a lot of options. Decide what pads you want to use and match the plate to those. FWIW I generally prefer 6.5" pads and also 4" ones for tight spots, which means they`ll work with both the rotary and the PC.



No way would I be without a rotary...I don`t need it very often, but when I do it seems indispensable.



As you mentioned a BMW, yesterday I stared polishing my `97 M3`s (repainted) hood. I stared out using H-T HC (and quickly switched ot H-T EC) with the Cyclo but didn`t make any real progress until I moved up to the rotary and a cutting pad. I simply can`t imagine having done any real correction without the rotary, it took many passes even with that combo before things looked fairly OK. On paint like that, and our Audis, I simply can`t get the finish I want without the rotary.

[Junebug]

Hey Mr. Accumulator - just got a Makita too, I`m using the 6.5" LC pads that I used with my PC. I`m giving thought to purchasing some of those Edge 2000 8" pads - their video is pretty convincing. Your thoughts please sir.

[AngieD]

I`ve been very interested in getting a rotary lately too. I`m pretty good with the pc. I think I`m gonna stick with my 6.5 Lake Country pads. I can`t decide between the Metablo, Makita, and the Hitachi. Which one is the easiest to use for a beginner?

[jamesuh]

All three are easy to use for a beginner from what I have read. I have the Hitachi and its easy. The Hitachi is cheaper, more powerful, lighter, and comes with a 5yr warranty vs the 1 for the Makita. The Metabo is probably the best out of the three but it costs twice as much.

[fdizzle]

props to hitachi owners . . . great value,

[imported_CBX Carl]

I have been extremely happy with the Makita 9227CX3. I picked up the kit version with the Makita Carrying bag. Quality machine and so silent comfortable and powerful compared to the PC. Just buy one and add to the addiction... Available online for $154 at Amazon with coupon and free shipping.

[David Fermani]

No way would I be without a rotary...I don`t need it very often, but when I do it seems indispensable. The Cyclo didn`t make any real progress until I moved up to the rotary and a cutting pad. I simply can`t imagine having done any real correction without the rotary, it took many passes even with that combo before things looked fairly OK. On paint like that, and our Audis, I simply can`t get the finish I want without the rotary.

You speak the truth. I don`t know how professional full time detailers can perform paint correction with a PC. :think: I almost find it`s only use is to apply wax.

[imported_artikxscout]

I have been extremely happy with the Makita 9227CX3. I picked up the kit version with the Makita Carrying bag. Quality machine and so silent comfortable and powerful compared to the PC. Just buy one and add to the addiction... Available online for $154 at Amazon with coupon and free shipping.

did you buy a new backing plate for it?

[Accumulator]

Hey Mr. Accumulator .. I`m giving thought to purchasing some of those Edge 2000 8" pads ..Your thoughts please sir.

Can`t really share any thoughts as I`m intentionally avoiding looking into any new pad systems until I use up some of the dozens of pads I already have on hand



But FWIW so many people (whose opinions I respect) like the Edge 2K system that I`m sure it`s worth your consideration.



David Fermani- I suppose a lot of it has to do with what people are working on. I never needed a rotary until I wanted a marring-free finish on Audis that`d been washed/[messed with] by others. E.g., I can do any correction (that`s safe to do) on my Mazda MPV with the PC/Cyclo, no problem. The way I have to do some areas on most vehicles by hand anyhow tells me that it *can* be done, I just wonder how people do it without spending hours on end :nixweiss Heh heh, not being a pro I can take however long it takes, but I sure couldn`t make money that way!

[coupe]

Maybe im crazy for saying this but i havent found the need for a rotary.



These are just a *few* pics, all done with a PC.

Before



after

[Accumulator]

Coupe- Nah, you`re not crazy What works for you works for you.

[Junebug]

When I looked at rotaries - my reasoning was they are all about the same price - that I could find, the Metabo was 25 bucks more. But I went with the Makita because I had used their cordless drills at work and was impressed, also it was lighter than the DeWalt, not a factor if all you do is hoods, tops and trunk lids.



Thanks Accumulator, I have waaaay too many pads to be buying any new ones. But, I like to plan for the day when I will need some. I`ll give the Edge2K a try. I especilly like the self centering feature. It`s like that carnival game where you try to drop the circles over the block - using the velcro backing plate to get a 6.5" pad centered, I`ve yet to do it perfect.