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  1. #16

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    The smaller the pad the more heat it will generate. Now how a PC can generate enough heat to bubble the clear I have no idea unless it was kept there for a long period of time.



    I lean more to the paint being in poor condition to begin with, perhaps a repaint or perhaps that particular area was just bad.



    I prefer the orange pads over the yellow pads as they leave less marring yet are still great at leveling.



    BillD - The new Cyclo pads are AWESOME, they look great and they work great. I was just sent a box of them from Cyclo, I have pads comin out my ears at the moment :faint:



    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  2. #17

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    Now I`m kinda scared of those 4" pads of fury.

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
    BillD - The new Cyclo pads are AWESOME, they look great and they work great. I was just sent a box of them from Cyclo, I have pads comin out my ears at the moment :faint:



    Anthony


    Anthony:



    BillD mentioned those pads but I didn`t think the ones Autogeek has were any different from the ones I get from Irene. Whose carrying them?

  4. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SLOW50
    Now I`m kinda scared of those 4" pads of fury.


    He He, I just got some in and I`m thinking the same thing :nervous:

  5. #20

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    Apr 2004
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    no need to be scared of them they work wonders. Just go slow and check your area often.

  6. #21
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MorBid
    Anthony:



    BillD mentioned those pads but I didn`t think the ones Autogeek has were any different from the ones I get from Irene. Whose carrying them?




    Yeah, I`m waitng for Irene or Rob to carry the entire line.
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  7. #22

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    Thanks BillD:



    I`ll just order the ones I got b4 from Irene as I need new ones for this weekend. They`re cheap and useful enough that I don`t mind having extras.

  8. #23

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    Mar 2003
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    Thanks for the info guys. Yup it is a repaint but it`s 2 years old. The bubble happened on fiberglass if that makes a diff. The area was very hot to the touch too. Probably all my fault, but whatever. Can`t do anything about it now. I will go back and try PI-III and the orange pad
    1987 Buick Grand National

  9. #24
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    Ah, fiberglass may react differently under heat generated by polishing than metal. Perhaps that and the re paint contributed to the bubbling. :nixweiss
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  10. #25

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    On the bubbling, I`ve managed to generate some surprising heat with a PC, but never a bubble. High speed, cutting pad, SSR2.5, moderately heavy pressure, hot outside, slow passes will heat things up quite a bit. Paint comes off fairly quick too... when things get hot with a PC.



    Mikeman out.
    Attain perfection! Remove more clearcoat today!

  11. #26

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    May 2005
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    The worst I`ve done with the PC@6, SSR2.5, 4" SFX1 cutting pad is to heat the clear up enough to soften it and leave soft, smooth, wide circular marring (something under the pad!). And I was TRYING to damage the paint. Another car I worked and worked with a 6" WG yellow cutting pad (more aggressive than the 4" SFX, i believe) and SSR2.5 in direct sun and wasn`t able to get bad marring (warmed the clear enough to reflow it a bit?).



    I`m guessing that since fiberglass is not exactly a good conductor of heat, that it retained the heat in a small area, causing the bubble. Metal will conduct the heat away to the area immediately surrounding the hot spot, thereby dissipating more quickly. Also, it`s possible that the bonding between the fiberglass and the repaint is different than metal and a repaint. This whole paragraph is total speculation, but it SEEMS logical to me at 5.30am

  12. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by MorBid
    Anthony:



    BillD mentioned those pads but I didn`t think the ones Autogeek has were any different from the ones I get from Irene. Whose carrying them?


    I also want to know about these ones (the NEW cyclo pads)

  13. #28

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    Because the 6-71/2" pads dont generate much heat with standard pressure, we are able to move the pc very slow .



    The 4" pads can be moved alittle faster. But the working area is smaller also. I typically work in a 1x1-ish area, and move the little pad at a pretty good pace. Inbetween PC movement and rotary movement.



    I have no idea whats up with the noise your pc is making, but downward pressure to the pad should not be excessive.



    With my SFX white and yellow pads i get good rotation on speed 3 and 4. At speed 5 it is zipping right alog. I have no use for speed 6 with the 4" pads.



    I wouldnt prime the SSR polishes with anything except SSR polishes. Initially give it a full circle around the pad, then goto a half circle, then use less. The 4" pads will load up.



    If i feel the need to apply any force to create more cut in the pad, i back off right before it turns clear.



    On painted plastics, i am alot more carefull with 4" pads. I use no extra pressure, and keep the speeds to 4 or less. I would rather have to polish 3 light times then ruin anything.



    The 4" pads are perfectly safe as long as you dont :



    Atempt to remove deep scratches.

    Understand that they can generate heat

    Keep the pc moving

    Use minimal downwards pressure.

 

 
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