using rotary for final polishing

**PaulTso** · 06-08-2005, 05:44 PM

I`m going to buy a rotary soon to help with removing heavy swirls but there is usually micro- marring that isleft behind. Can these also be removed with a rotary and green foam polishing pad? will i get close to swirl free/marring free finish? I`ve used a rotary plenty of times on removing sanding marks from color sanding, but never final polishing. I`ve always followed up with my PC.

thanks

**AutoNova** · 06-08-2005, 06:34 PM

I`d stick with the PC mainly due to the smaller pads and it won`t break down the LSP like a rotary will.

**wannafbody** · 06-08-2005, 07:29 PM

I`d think splatter would be an issue with thin LSP`s

**stilez** · 06-08-2005, 07:33 PM

I only use a rotary polisher. For final polishing I found that Menzerna Final Polish II via rotary and a LC polishing pad @ 1500 rpm will finish PERFECT 99% of the time. For that other 1%, use a finishing pad. 3 passes always works best.

**Bill D** · 06-08-2005, 07:37 PM

I`d say , if you want that special added touch, especially if you`re working on your own car, do follow up with a PC or better yet, something like FPII via Cyclo, then go to LSP application with the PC.

The PC, and more so the Cyclo, can produce that special, final "wow" prior to LSP application.

**PaulTso** · 06-08-2005, 08:26 PM

awesome, thanks guys. For customer cars i usually go ssr 2.5, or 80 via cutting pad then either 80 or 3m smr with polishing pad. Its just taking way too long.

**buellwinkle** · 06-09-2005, 11:00 PM

I`ve used a rotary for many years and just started using a PC recently. I never had a problem with marring or swirls, not when using the proper foam pad, technique and product. I`ve used wool pads with compound to remove wet sanding marks and that causes marring but that`s not part of a normal detail. Check out Lake Country finishing pads for applying wax or cleaner waxes like Klasse AIO or NXT and their polishing pads for mild to medium polishes like Meg`s #80 or #83 or Malco Light Polish or Rejuvenator. I like to keep the pad flat against the paint and put a small amount of product, about the size of a quater in the center of the pad and start the buffer with the pad against the paint or you will wear the product. Also just do a small area at a time and let the buffer/polish do the work.

**X-Trail** · 06-10-2005, 01:51 AM

Currently i am trying to `upgrade` all my final polishing using rotary from PC because of time issue. I either use FP with white or Black pad and it work fine AS LONG as i use IP with white pad. If i were to use IP with yellow pad, the holograms that i create cannot be remove, donno why.

**imported_themightytimmah** · 06-10-2005, 09:12 AM

I`m trying to learn to finish with a rotary too. IMO. it leaves a better gloss than PC, if you can avoid buffer swirls.

**imported_Intermezzo** · 06-10-2005, 09:50 AM

Originally posted by themightytimmah

I`m trying to learn to finish with a rotary too. IMO. it leaves a better gloss than PC, if you can avoid buffer swirls.

I agree completely. The rotary leaves a glossier finish than the PC/cyclo when compounding AND when applying the final polish.

**buellwinkle** · 06-10-2005, 04:18 PM

You can`t beat a rotary for speed, gloss and it uses less product to boot. My only downside is splatter and when I do my kid`s convertible, it`s really hard to get the splatter off the top. I`m going to try those concave pads from LC next time and see if that helps. I use the PC only for light polish/waxing for what it was intended for but if the concave pads work out there`s no reason to keep the PC.