How to control crazy bouncing with rotary

**imported_fireberd350** · 06-08-2005, 06:34 AM

I had my first experience w/ a rotary yesterday (pics to come later) and boy was I impressed. I was able to to the work of a PC in less than half the time using less aggressive products with better results.

However, occassionally the pad would start wobbling like crazy and uncontrollably. It helped a little bit by misting the pad w/ some QD occassionally but the wobbles still persisted on occassion.

My question. How do you control/prevent such wobbling?

FYI: I was using a Makita rotary w/ 2 sided quick connect edge pads. Green pad w/ 3M FI II Finishing Material @ ~1500RPM, Blue Pad w/ AIO @ ~800RPM.

Thanks, Steve

**White95Max** · 06-08-2005, 06:40 AM

I get wobbling when I do three things in particular:

1. Using a stiff pad (cutting).

2. Pressing down too much.

3. Trying to control the machine with my arms too far extended. The machine ends up getting tilted slightly.

Are you still interested in buying/trading for my 3M PI III MG?

**Bill D** · 06-08-2005, 06:42 AM

Just on a side note, I`m not sure about using AIO specifically via rotary, even only by Cyclo it flashes off too quickly. I reserve it strictly for use by hand or PC.

**klnyc** · 06-08-2005, 06:44 AM

You get hopping when you appllied too much or too little compound. Did you prime your pad before you hit the panel?

**mgm2003** · 06-08-2005, 06:44 AM

A couple things can cause rotary hop.

-You are trying to steer with your arms like it`s a PC and throwing the machine off balance.

-You are not using enough product. You`re basically hitting `dry` spots on the pad or paint causing the rotary to hop.

If you are just learning the rotary I would suggest using a forgiving polish that is easy to work with. The first thing that comes to mind is Optimum.

**imported_fireberd350** · 06-08-2005, 10:13 AM

My process was to use a liberal amount of polish on the pad and spread it around w/ the machine off. Then I would mist the pad w/ some QD and goto work. I would usually only make about 2 passes before it hazed up and that`s really all it needed, the finish looks great.

I may have used too much product but it was hazing quickly so I used a little extra to me a some more working time.

Also, I really don`t use any pressure, just let the machine weight do the work.

About the AIO: I usually use it by hand but the pad on this rotary is so big it was a huge time saver. I had the RPM`s super low and moved it around the panels at a good speed. It worked well and removed any 3M I missed and all the hazing.

White95Max: PM sent

PS: I applied my sealent w/ my PC and using my PC after the rotary I couldn`t believe how tiny the PC and pad felt. It was like a toy.

Thanks for the help so far.

**Porkanbeans** · 06-08-2005, 10:34 AM

When I apply a product like a compound or polish (on a PC, don`t have rotary experience), I like to put it on in a straight line on the panel. Then I put the PC on 1 and glide it straight over the line, distribute the polish on the panel, then kick it up to 6. This ensures that an even amount of product is on the pad and panel. I don`t know if it will work with a rotary, but you might as well try it.

**EBPcivicsi** · 06-08-2005, 10:39 AM

Here is what I would recommend....get a Meguiars w64 or equivalent BP. Use your smaller pads 6" pads with the rotary, this *should* solve most of your hopping issues.

I only use my " pads on the rotary now. I haven`t used my edge pads in over a year.......

Good luck!!

**imported_fireberd350** · 06-08-2005, 10:40 AM

i think w/ experience I will be bale to control it. I was curious if anyone had any tips. I cannot see myself going to a smaller pad tho. The larger pad is incredibly efficient and a huge time saver.

**Bill D** · 06-08-2005, 10:46 AM

Nothing but 6.5" pads via rotary for me. I even use 4" pads with when I want to practice spot job work. Large pads maybe for "land yachts" or gigantic SUVs, vehicles like that.

**EBPcivicsi** · 06-08-2005, 10:52 AM

Originally posted by Bill D

Nothing but 6.5" pads via rotary for me. I even use 4" pads with when I want to practice spot job work. Large pads maybe for "land yachts" or gigantic SUVs, vehicles like that.

Yep, same here...

Bill, you should check out the spot repair pads from S.M. Arnold. I think they are 3", but I love mine. You get a BP, adapter for PC or rotary use, two wool pads, one foam finishing pad, and one foam polishing pad. I really like it.

**Bill D** · 06-08-2005, 11:44 AM

Yeah, SM Arnold will likely be another brand I will try. That kit sounds sort of like that Norton kit I have information on.

**klnyc** · 06-08-2005, 01:14 PM

Dang a 4" pad on a rotary? I think I should get one of those adaptor to convert to 4" BP.

**imported_Burlyq** · 06-08-2005, 01:30 PM

Always tilt a rotary, a small angle will do away with wobble. The only downside is that you only use the 4 inchs on the pad not the center of the pad, so don`t put any product in the center of the pad. Also prevents splatter, just put polish on surface and mush around.

**Mochamanz1** · 06-08-2005, 03:58 PM

All of the above is good information , with the addition of dialing up too much buffer speed, which can also help increase the possibility of hopping, which can be disastrous to your wrists, the paint and to the cord... signed -one who knows. :LOLOL ! I control the rotary with slight up and down movements which slightly modifies the "contact angle" with the paint surface, so "up" might move the buffer Right, and "down" might move it left. (The movements depend on rotation direction, mine works as described, someone elses buffer might be the opposite, but basically it is universal. )The degree of tilt determining the strength of the the movement....:xyxthumbs