Full detail plan... need help with Pads and Speeds for PC

**integraoligist** · 06-03-2005, 08:16 AM

1st off... was told that the PC 7336 is the way to go, rather then the others because of the weight balance in it. I need a PC that is easy to get into "inner" curves and can flex the pad... and also can chage to a small pad (maybe 3" or something like that?)

I dont know about diffrences in the back plates either

Anyway...

Subject: `97 Grenalda Black Pearl.

Note: Freaquently washed... waxed every 1-2 years.

Here is my current plan to bring her back to LIFE... i have entered every step of the process and what i will be using:

1. Wash & Dry - apply by hand

2. Clay: Auto Wax Company - Clay Magic Detailing Kit - apply by hand

3. Fill chips in paint with touch-up paint - apply by hand

4. Paint Set let sit for 24hours to dry paint

5. Wash & Dry - apply by hand

6. Polish & Buff: Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish - apply PC (Polishing pad or Cutting pad, Speed 5-6)

7. Wax: FK1 Pink - apply PC (Finishing pad, Speed 2-4)

8. Wax Cure: Let wax cure for 24 hours

9. Wax: FK1 Pink - apply PC (Finishing pad, Speed 2-4)

Thoughts?

Thanks all!

**White95Max** · 06-03-2005, 10:17 AM

#6 - I`d apply DACP with a polishing pad first, and move up to a cutting pad if necessary. I do all polishing on 5-6.

#7 - Apply waxes with a finishing pad on midrange speed (2-4).

I`d use a sealant because your paint is pretty dark, which will get hot in the summer, and affect the durability of the wax.

And yes AIO would remove any oils/fillers from previous products. It`s up to you whether you want to use AIO.

**integraoligist** · 06-03-2005, 11:02 AM

well i`d think the AIO would only waste time... because the #83 already has oil`s and fillers in it.

As for sealents... I read that Klasse SG is a pain to remove... any other sealents i should look at that i can apply with the PC?

thanks again...

**updating Speeds and pads in first post, Thanks!**

**Lowejackson** · 06-03-2005, 11:50 AM

Not sure if you have seen the link for paint scratches http://articles.autopia.org/index.ph..._v2&id=27&c=16

Is your paint heavily swirled? DACP should be followed by something like #80.

If your going down the sealant route, you will need to remove the fillers in order to allow good bonding

**Accumulator** · 06-03-2005, 01:04 PM

Yeah, I`d tweak yor proposed plan a bit too.

I don`t really care for #83, but whether you use that or a different product (I`d use 3M PI-III RC, pn 05933) you`ll need to follow up with a milder product. Maybe Meg`s #80. I`d leave the oils/fillers there to hide what marring is left (there will almost certainly be some.

I`d *NOT* use a sealant on this one, IMO you won`t get the finish nice enough for that approach. I`d just apply a wax over the #80.

**integraoligist** · 06-03-2005, 01:42 PM

swirls/light scratches/water marks are pretty harsh on some areas... thats why i was going to go with #83... was told that #83 is only harsh a little while then turns into more of a fine polisher like #80...

I thought that you`d want a sealent over the #80or#83 to seal-in the fillers/oil. no? does the sealents not react well with the fillers/oil in the #80/83?

**Lowejackson** · 06-03-2005, 02:27 PM

I prefer Sonus SFX-1 to #83, which I have had mixed results with. I would start with the equivalent of #80 and review after a few passes.

The wax route is best if you want to keep the fillers in place. Sealants seem to prefer bare paint.

**integraoligist** · 06-03-2005, 02:31 PM

Originally posted by Lowejackson

I prefer Sonus SFX-1 to #83, which I have had mixed results with. I would start with the equivalent of #80 and review after a few passes.

The wax route is best if you want to keep the fillers in place. Sealants seem to prefer bare paint.

hence why everyone uses AIO before SG... to strip off EVERYTHING... i`m getting it now