PorterCable Newbie here - tips needed

[SF_VR6]

Hi guys,



I`ve used my PorterCable twice in the last year and I still have swirl marks. I think I am not aggressive as I should be.



- I`ve been using Griots polishes # 1, 2 and 3.

- 1 being the harshest and recommended for ozidized paint.

- My paint is not oxidized but it does have minor scratches.

- The scratches do not go down to metal.



I used the harshest polish in a small area and it seems to scuff up the paint into a dull scratched haze so I stopped.



I spend about a good 15 minutes going back and forth on the hood with the #2 polish. It looks good but I still have scratches. I heard if you are not aggressive enough you will end up with really shiney scratches. I seem to be shining up the top layer but not really buffing out the scratches.



Do you guys have any advice on how to get a black car showroom shine? I mean I want my paint job to be smooth and clear in direct sunlight. Is that possible?



any advice appreciated.





:nixweiss

[dcswd]

I dont have experience with griots polishes... but one part to polishing is this.



Start with an aggressive polish as needed.... when you use it, it will replace the big swirls with smaller swirls of its own. Then you "step down" and use a lighter polish to remove the swirls induced by the heavy polish.



You may also have to go over a section a couple of times to remove everything.



What pads are you using for the PC?

[SF_VR6]

I`m using the suggested orange foam pad seen here.







I see what you are saying. I will have to add swirls to get out the harsher scratches. I`ve been reluctant to do that I guess. The idea is to take out the scratches right?



So what you are saying is that using a harsher polish (#1 aggressive) will add swirls as it buffs out the scratches since only the harsh polish can do this.



Then step down to finer (#2 - medium) polish to get out the harsh polish swirls.



Then step down to the finest (#3 - finest) polish to get out the finest swirls.



I think I get it.

[dcswd]

Yes, that is what you are basically doing. When using an aggressive polish you can also get what is called hazing... which is a similar problem.



Now, if you can, you will always want to start with the medium polish instead. Start with the least aggressive product to do the job. That way you dont have to worry about removing hazing or swirls left by a more aggressive polish.



I hope this helps...

[togwt]

Groitâ€â„¢s polishes are a â€Ëœmildâ€â„¢ abrasive compared to other polishes you might want to consider something more abrasive

[Accumulator]

Yeah, the Griot`s pad/product combos are *very* mild, often *too* mild. IMO Griot`s ad copy sorta makes for unrealistic expectations when it comes to removing defects.



You can try more aggressive pads (Lake yellow or orange) or different products (I`m partial to 3M and 1Z).



I`ve used the Griot`s polishes quite a bit, but these days the only one I use is #3, for when I need something *extremely* mild.



The Griot`s orange pads don`t have much (if any) cut, but they sure do last a long time. I generally prefer other pads, but still use the Griot`s for mild work. To remove any real marring, you`ll need a cutting pad of some kind.



The #1 is sorta the worst of both worlds IMO, harsh enough to cause micromarring, not aggressive enough to remove much. I`d rather use 3M`s PI-III RC or, if you need something more aggressive, 1Z`s Ultra/Extra Polish.



Don`t worry about the micromarring that aggressive products leave behind. Just the nature of the beast. But products like the PI-III RC break down more, leaving less micromarring.



#2 is OK, but it works better with something like an *Lake* orange (light cutting) pad. Too mild, IMO, when used with Griot`s orange pad. Might follow up with the Griot`s pad after using a more aggressive one though. Might work well with a *4"* pad, which won`t bog down as much when you lean on the PC a little.



#3 is so mild that, when used with the Griot`s orange, it won`t really remove much of anything except (very light) micromarring from other products. Nice final polish though, but it can be hard to buff off compared to other products.



Generally, using 3M`s PI-III RC (05933) followed by their PI-III MG (05937) works better/faster/easier IMO than the Griot`s polishes.

[brian_k03]

I used the harshest polish in a small area and it seems to scuff up the paint into a dull scratched haze so I stopped.

same thing here

i just gonna go to something weaker and get rid of haze.



that should work ?

right??:nixweiss

[Accumulator]

Yeah, that should work. It`s not uncommon for harsher products to leave marring of their own, generally called "micro marring". You use these products (e.g., the #1) until the new micromarring has replaced the old marring (swirls, scratches, whatever). Then you use a milder product (e.g., the #2) to remove the micromarring. Use this milder product until everthing looks good. Then if you want to use an even *finer* product (e.g., the #3), use that, but don`t expect the final polish to do any "correction", it`s just a way of improving and already-great finish.



I honestly think that anybody using the Griot`s stuff would be happier if they switched to the PI-III products.

[Mr Monk]

I`ve recently tried Pinnacle`s new Swirl Remover. Good stuff. Nice creamy lotion (blue in color) that`s gentle yet with the right pad can do some good cutting. Like many of the swirl removers you have to do a couple of pases to achieve the results you want.



There are so many good products out there you may want to shelve Griots for awhile and give some others a try!