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Thread: Rotary Usage

  1. #91
    Oh I'll Bring the Shizzle Nagchampa's Avatar
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    Originally posted by whatnobeer

    Great thread. I`ve learned quite a bit about

    do`s and don`ts when using a rotary. My next

    question would be what is a good one to purchase

    and where would you get one? Price isn`t a big

    deal. Looking more for quality and dependability.

    Thanks.



    The Beer Man :p
    You really can`t go wrong with the popular brands. (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Porter Cable, etc) They all have their strong points and features but overall they all do basically the same thing. Check some of the forum sponsors as well as eBay for good deals.
    "Never walk into an environment and assume that you understand it better than the people who live there." - Kofi Annan after his first frigid Minnesota winter

  2. #92

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    Great thread! I feel a lot less scared to use my rotary. I`ve been pretty lucky to have never really messed anything up with it, but can someone tell me what this user did wrong that caused these marks? Is this typical inexperience, a rush job, wrong pad/product, or just plain carelessness that can easily be avoided?


  3. #93

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    Swirl marks caused by using too aggressive of a product/pad combination and moving the rotary quickly across the paint. Too many detailers PUSH the buffer and this causes marring because they are moving the buffer faster than it can spin and break down abrasives, hence, swirls.



    This can be avoided by first using the least abrasive product/pad combo first and using a slower or lower RPM. The paint doesn`t look that bad in the first place so all that should of been done is a rotary with either a polishing or finishing pad and a mild paint cleaner like IP or FP.



    Vehicle sides can always be difficult to control the rotary so what I do is break the door up length wise into a top section and a bottom section and then break up the top door section into halfs, the same with the bottom section.



    If possible turn up or turn in the side view mirrors, tape off the door handles and trim, including windows, and then work the first half with the rotary with the RPM`s set about 1400 to 1200 for polishing and 1100 to 1000 for finishing work. Work in a hatch pattern as much as possible, meaning your first pass is say right to left, then left to right and finish with a diagonal pass. Most products can be worked until all evaporated but I like to do a second pass many times with a "wet" buff. This is when you buff but instead of working the product until all gone you buff a small area with a short pass or two then remove right away.



    You know you are moving the buffer too fast if the paint is cool to the touch when done doing an area. If the paint is real hot to the touch then you are moving to slow and/or have the RPM`s to high. The paint should be toasty warm to the touch for polishing and finishing.



    OK, I am done..........



    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  4. #94

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    Excellent explanation! Thanks for the quick response.:xyxthumbs

  5. #95

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    Also, practice buffing with your non-dominant arm. It saves you so much time on vertical panels when the torque of the buffer is countering your arms movement.

  6. #96

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    I`m going to take the plunge and pick myself up a DW 849 (and a practice hood! : D ) very soon. I`ve waded through this thread regarding pads to use but I was hoping someone could give me a few recommendations. Thanks

  7. #97
    Hooked For Life Bill D's Avatar
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    I`m using 6.5" Lake country pads for now and have a rotary backing plate for them. I`m going to try to order a backing plate that can accomodate my PC 6" pads from LC directly, they appear to be the only manufactuer that makes a plate for a rotary for these size pads. I`d really like to be able to use my other exisiting pads with both machines
    Treat it like it`s the only one in the world.

  8. #98

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    On the horizontal surfaces, it makes it easier to switch hands. If you normally have your right hand on the trigger, left on the handle, then switch.



    This will give you more control over the buffer when you buff on vertical surfaces. Also, keep the



    Also, if you are getting alot of caking, i.e. after half a hood, something is wrong. Either use more product, a different product or a different pad. The pad should stay clean and shouldn`t cake up.



    Also, when you buff, think of it as mowing a golfing green. Do a 2 foot by 2 foot section at a time. Keep the buffer moving at a constant speed and use over lapping lanes. Let the buffer do the work, don`t press on the buffer until you have had several hours of practice.



    At first, you don`t have to buff the section clean, you can stop when there is a haze and then wipe it off with a micro-fiber towel. Then move onto the next section. After you get more experience, you can buff the sections clean.

  9. #99

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    Last weekend, I used a rotary buffer on a 4th Generation (`95 - `99) Maxima and wanted to share some things when using a rotary on a 4th Gen or 5th/5.5 Gen Maxima.



    4th Gen



    a) Tape off the trim above the doors and the weatherstripping

    b) Tape off the "Maxima" and the GLE/SE Tags on the trunk

    c) Tape off the edge of the headlights, cornering lamps and grille

    d) Tape off the weatherstripping around the sunroof (if equipped), windshield, and the rear window.

    e) Tape off the edges around the taillights.



    This Generation of the Maxima has flat surfaces which means running a rotary will be pretty easy. However, you don`t need to run it fast since Nissan`s paint is somewhat fragile.



    5th/5.5 Gen



    This version has the same taping points as the 4th Gen but it has more curves and tighter spaces that you will have to do by hand. If you are going to use a rotary on the 5th Gen, you just run the rotary on the flat surfaces (hood, top, doors, trunk, bumper, spoiler) but the lower valence and underneath the spoiler can be done by hand because that`s a very tight space.

  10. #100

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    PrinzII- Did you have much trouble getting the by-hand areas to match the by-rotary ones?

  11. #101

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    Amazing how fast 2 years fly by... hehe

  12. #102
    Pre Med Student NavindraLR's Avatar
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    yup this post has come along way

    glad it did tho.. cause it helped out quite a bit with my rotary (makita 9227)

  13. #103

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    During yesterday`s detailing meet, one of the Max owners picked up a Makita 9227c and 2 3M Pads (Compounding and finishing) and the Meguiar`s Polishing Pad.



    I assembled the buffer for him and advised him that he needs to practice on a beater car before taking the buffer to his Max.



    However, I showed him what can be done with it on a supercharged Maxima. I took some Menzerna Intensive Polish and applied iit using the 9227c and the 3M compounding pad.

    I did the right front corner and the front bumper (I used PI III Light Cut Rubbing Compound on the bumper). I set the Makita on the second notch after 2 (roughly 1200 RPM) and gave it to the owner for him to use on his car (Owner is experienced in using a rotary).



    The results had the owner because he was actually able to see the pearlescent effect in the paint.



    However, I`d like to know how to apply product to the pad properly on a rotary. I put dots around the pad (four on the outside, one center) and spread it around before hitting the switch. I also worked the product until it dried/disappeared.

  14. #104

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    i though i`d add to this post, a few months ago i when to a detail shop for advice on products, i saw the guy using a dewalt rotary, as he ran off the the panel with the machine, i said, wow! that must be really easy to do damage with, he said he uses special wool pads, and backup pads, to reduce the risks. anyone? anyone?

  15. #105
    Pre Med Student NavindraLR's Avatar
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    Originally posted by PrinzII

    During yesterday`s detailing meet, one of the Max owners picked up a Makita 9227c and 2 3M Pads (Compounding and finishing) and the Meguiar`s Polishing Pad.



    I assembled the buffer for him and advised him that he needs to practice on a beater car before taking the buffer to his Max.



    However, I showed him what can be done with it on a supercharged Maxima. I took some Menzerna Intensive Polish and applied iit using the 9227c and the 3M compounding pad.

    I did the right front corner and the front bumper (I used PI III Light Cut Rubbing Compound on the bumper). I set the Makita on the second notch after 2 (roughly 1200 RPM) and gave it to the owner for him to use on his car (Owner is experienced in using a rotary).



    The results had the owner because he was actually able to see the pearlescent effect in the paint.



    However, I`d like to know how to apply product to the pad properly on a rotary. I put dots around the pad (four on the outside, one center) and spread it around before hitting the switch. I also worked the product until it dried/disappeared.


    did u notice any slingage of product using your method of applying the product on the pad? slingage and dusting seem to be 2 huge problems i have with the rotary right now.. still tryin to figure it out tho... :nixweiss

 

 
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