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Thread: Rotary Usage

  1. #76

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    Hey thanks Greg,



    But actually I will offer it as a video file "IF" I can 1) Find someone to video it and 2) Figure out how to make it a file! LOL



    If the video deal doesn`t work out I will at least be able to post some pictures.



    Also I am working on a little invention of sorts that will assist detailers, both pro and weekend warriors, while using buffers.



    Happy Resurrection Day!

    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  2. #77

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    Hey Anthony!



    I`ll even host that file if you need to! =) Just let me know! lol

  3. #78

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    Sometimes I think it would be advantageous for me to take a weekend trip down to Texas to see Scott and Anthony in action.

    Maybe later this summer, assuming business is going well, I might bite the bullet and get a rotary, but for now, PC works and is paid for.



    Anthony- can`t wait to see this invention.

  4. #79
    That'll buff right out! jimmybuffit's Avatar
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    Well, if Anthony has an INVENTION, then I humbly stand in awe, waiting...



    Jim
    "If it was easy, everybody`d be doing it."
    www.jimmybuffit.com

  5. #80

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    The "invention" is still in the testing mode and is coming along rather slowly because it is made of fabric and I am horrible at sewing, in fact I flunked home ec in school....now that is sad!



    We are "trying" to get a video of sorts done, hopefully by Christmas of this year. Keep yer fingers crossed.



    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  6. #81

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    Considering your main issues as you stated are with Buffer marks, swirls, and scratch problems. In order to eliminate (not fill-in) paint defects and/or surface imperfections you need good lighting, clean toweling, clean pads, evaluate the surface, right products for the job, and plenty of patience. If you think in terms of one section or panel at a time, you will be less likely to be in a hurry to go on to the next section. You will actually be going faster taking your time and doing a nice job and solving the problems, instead of going fast and leaving scratches, swirls, undealt with for some later time.



    I do a walk around to check for loose trim, emblems, and other items. Taping off lenses, body side moldings, antenna mounts, etc., depending on vehicle.



    You can solve a lot of the issues people have with rotary`s ahead of time before you even pick-up the buffer.



    When it comes to your pads make sure they are balanced on the backing plate properly. Unwanted vibration can create more problems.

    I have found that most surface correction can be done between 1000 to 1500 RPM`s. I got most of my wet-sanding, compounding, polishing, blends, and scratch and run repair experience by working in the body shop environment. Great classroom for detailers. Some of your products may have speed recommendations on the labeling. If they do not you will be within a safe range as mentioned above. Some of your products are heat activated this is one reason for the recommended speeds; compounds, swirl mark removers, etc. It`s nice to hear how it`s working for others, but most if not all of your professional detailing chemical company`s have thoroughly tested these products, that`s how they come up with the recommendations for their use, features, and what pads to use.



    Ever since I started detailing, the old standard of the least aggresive pads and products first, applies here too. Man!, If I can get it done with the light stuff first, the less surface has to be leveled, and more time for other things like coffee and pastries.



    When applying product I will either put it directly on the pad or lay about an 8" line of product on the surface. Starting from the right side of the line I will draw the product up into the pad, and using front to back motions (natural motion of vehicles) I overlap each pass (which is about two feet) by about 50% evenly and smoothly buffing, keeping the pad as flat to the surface as possible applying the wet product before it starts to dry (I am comfortable with light to medium pressure at first and then I`ll ease up at the end of the passes). I`ve noticed with some products once the product dries it will cause the pad to grab and pull away. Wet buffing by misting and/or product usually solves this problem. On vertical fields smaller pads at lower speeds are easy to manipulate and are effective. As was already mentioned, keep the rotary moving. If it starts to drag mist the pad and/or lay down some more product. Buff wet! a rotary out of control can cause injury to you and the car.



    If you want to learn how to use the rotary safely and efficiently learn the products and chemicals you are using and your future applications will be based on experience instead of guess work.



    About deeper scratches, if your fingernail will catch in the groove, it will probably need to be repaired. Your better off telling your customer or admitting to yourself whatever the situation, that this needs to be repaired, rather than trying to fix it and penetrating the surface coat exposing the underlying coats.



    There are many situations that will arise, some new some old. Paying close attention with your own eyes to what`s really on that surface will tell you what the solution is and the actions to take.



    Hope this helps you! . . . .
    Every day is a day when we must carry the vision in GREAT DETAIL! . . . . . .

  7. #82

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    Anthony Orosco, I make movies (of family) with analog camera, put them into a "movie making" program burn them to DVD and send them to my parents by snail mail. A movie file is too big to e-mail.



    Everyone else,

    what kind of rotary is everybody using?

    make model price and where from?

  8. #83

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    I`ve been practicing buffing and have also had a professional painter friend of mine teach me some techniques. I am having a hard time with cars that have a lot of hard angles, such as a Jeep Cherokee. This car is nothing but edges! How can you safely buff this type of car without burning some of these edges. It`s easy not to burn an edge if you have plenty of room for the trailing edge but what if you have 2 edges only about an inch apart? Help!

  9. #84

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    I haven`t viewed any post where people are using a paint gauge. I don`t have one yet either, and I haven`t buffed an actual customer car, but how can you keep track of how much paint you can safely take off without getting the clearcoat to thin?

  10. #85
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    Quote: And Another Thing!





    ~One man’s opinion / observations~



    Removing (3 Mil - 0.003â€) of the paint film surface will cause premature paint system failure and the only way to rectify this would be replacement (re-painting) As a reference point copy paper thickness is 3.5 Mils (0.0035â€)



    How could you measure 0.003†without a paint gauge?

    I would think paint shops would have access to one though



    ~Hope this helps~





    Experience unshared; is knowledge wastedâ€/



    justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  11. #86

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    Thanks for the help. That is a good reference point about the copy paper. I have looked at some nice paint gauges but they are pretty expensive. I don`t like the magnet ones.

  12. #87

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    They are very pricey and you need one that can measure multiple layers, not just the total thickness since you will be measuring the panel, primer, paint and clear.



    I saw a nice digital gauge, it would measure the thickness of up to 4 layers but I THINK it was around 800-1000 bucks. Too much for me.

  13. #88

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    Originally posted by FinishingTouch

    I`ve been practicing buffing and have also had a professional painter friend of mine teach me some techniques. I am having a hard time with cars that have a lot of hard angles, such as a Jeep Cherokee. This car is nothing but edges! How can you safely buff this type of car without burning some of these edges. It`s easy not to burn an edge if you have plenty of room for the trailing edge but what if you have 2 edges only about an inch apart? Help!


    I was just lurking around and noticed this post and don`t believe it was replied to so I`ll take a stab at it.



    You should first tape off edges and then always buff out to the edge. In other words start from the top of the fender, say on a JEEP front fender, and work your way out to the edge.



    You can also buff up to the edge and stop a few inches away from the actual edge and finish it off by hand. If you are going to actually buff on the edge itself then you should feather the trigger as you go along the edge.



    Anthony
    "The Art & Science of Auto Detail"

  14. #89

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    Great thread. I`ve learned quite a bit about

    do`s and don`ts when using a rotary. My next

    question would be what is a good one to purchase

    and where would you get one? Price isn`t a big

    deal. Looking more for quality and dependability.

    Thanks.



    The Beer Man :p

  15. #90
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    ~One man’s opinion / observations ~



    You mean 0.3 Mil, not 3 Mils, correct? That’s correct, thanks BlackRegal



    This is what I use, but there are others just as good (perhaps better, dependant upon individual)



    The Makitaâ„ 9227 offers an electronic speed control (0-3000 rpm) that maintains a constant speed under varying load conditions. This means you can add a little pressure while working out a paint blemish without having the polisher stall or slow down. The (10 amp) motor works effortlessly for high speed polishing and the entire unit weighs only 6.6 lbs. A large wrap around handle provides excellent two-hand control for working over edges or into tight corners. A spindle lock built into the polisher makes changing pads safe and easy.



    Specification:

    Electronic adjustable speed control, 0-3,000RM

    Power: 120 Volts AC, 50-60Hz/120V VAC

    Motor: 10Amp

    Speed (constant): 0 – 6,000 RPM

    Spindle Thread: 5/8†– 11UNC

    Weight: 6.5Lbs





    ~Hope this helps~



    Experience unshared; is knowledge wastedâ€/



    justadumbarchitect *so I question everything*
    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

 

 
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