so the lack of product is my main reason of residue? i`ll give it a shot...
so the lack of product is my main reason of residue? i`ll give it a shot...
Yes it could be, try using more product and see it may help.
Laters.
Andre`
DavidB wrote a great article about using machines for buffing and polishing. There is a whole section on using a rotary. It`s in Detailing Articles and Tips:
Machine Buffing
Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
--Mark Twain
I`ve read that already... needed more info... thanks.
I would practice as much as possible. Be very careful before you use the rotary for real. Everyone makes mistakes and it is very easy to burn the paint on the car.
Like showroom said, slower is best and work the speed up, i never go past speed 3.
good luck
Here is a car with pretty bad swirls. I used a yellow pad and very low rpm`s. If you hold the pad on and angle and move fast with high rpm`s you will see the hologram effect. When you flaten the pad and slow down on the rpm`s you will see them disapear. Most production line detailer dont go far enough, the last step thats why you see those holagrams.
http://www.washman.biz/pictures
Easy money this detailing stuff
About a month ago, I was trained by a pro how to use the rotary, and I`ve been practicing ever since. I`ve gotten pretty good at it-- no more splattering, sputtering, or slipping, just a smooth ride. In fact, I bought the Makita recently to aide my weekend business. I had a `92 Camaro that was in pretty bad shape and had no gloss, but a wool pad shined it up very well. After I finished, I smoked up the tires on the Camaro (with permission!). We went to a back alley/parking lot and I revved that American muscle up and slammed the gas. I accelerated to about 60 mph and then stopped and took a look behind me-- beautiful gray smoke. When the smoke cleared, I admired my long, parrarel lines of tire rubber on the pavement. Oh yeah, the rotary! The car looked great, and I feel very comfortable with a wool pad after a couple weeks with a lot of practice. I haven`t left any buffer marks, burns, or bad swirls yet, so I think I`m doing ok. The key to a great finish is the right combination of pads and chemicals, and a slow, steady pace at under 2000 RPM. If you keep the pad flat and moving, you will not hurt the car.
-ChuckmotorPost Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikesmahayanaeka liked this post
Great tips Chuck...
Question... what do you do on tight painted panels like in between the bumper and the taillight, under emblems, etc where the painted surface is small (about 3-4")?
How about bumpers? The areas on a bumper where it`s ridged, gapped (for air passage like grilles), etc that are painted? Do you do those by hand instead?
THe buffer should aways be on the move. If it skips you may have to recenter the pad on the adapter so the pad spins in a circle. Also, try more product to load the pad. Never run the machnine on a dry surface.
Dont think about burning the paint. Just remember that a clear coat is very hard and will not burn easily. As long as you are using the right products of course, ie. cc compounds, and high speed polishes.
Finally, make it a point to be more carefull around edges like door handles, wings, mirrors, where the panels end and a new one begins, and moldings. Anything plastic or rubber needs to be taped off.
Ryan
Originally posted by theveed
Great tips Chuck...
Question... what do you do on tight painted panels like in between the bumper and the taillight, under emblems, etc where the painted surface is small (about 3-4")?
How about bumpers? The areas on a bumper where it`s ridged, gapped (for air passage like grilles), etc that are painted? Do you do those by hand instead?
Sometimes you will have to tilt the buffer in order to get the curves and small areas. Funny you should ask, because today I did a car today that was ridged at the bottom side panels. I slowed down the buffer and moved the buffer with the curves. Sometimes, you`ll have to get the tiny spots by hand. I`ve had to resort to that several times. These machines are not as dangerous as I thought. Before I grabbed a rotary for the first time, I had this image of the clear coat getting zapped away. You just have to be concious of what you`re doing and use some common sense, and everything will be fine. Like most things, the only way to really learn is to practice and practice until it becomes second nature. It seems odd and clunky at first, but after a while, it won`t skip or jump.
-Chuckmotor
How slow do you on on edges/small areas?
I have to hit the gym too... hehe... the buffer feels 3x heavier after a day`s work...
I flick the switch around edges and handles. Good to see you carwasher Jabo vw
Edges sould be done FIRST. When you start a panel you should cut in the edges first thing. For edges use a very low speed and a 3 degree angle.
Taking my signature to it`s MAXIMUM POTENTIAL
Originally posted by Ryan
Dont think about burning the paint. Just remember that a clear coat is very hard and will not burn easily. As long as you are using the right products of course, ie. cc compounds, and high speed polishes.
Ryan
The clear coat in not any harder than paint, infact it is paint and it`s not hard to burn through. Infact all it takes is one wrong move in the wrong spot and you will be paying bucks for a panel to be painted.
Easy money this detailing stuff
Originally posted by ShowroomLincoln
Edges sould be done FIRST. When you start a panel you should cut in the edges first thing. For edges use a very low speed and a 3 degree angle.
you could ad that you should position your buffer so the pad is buffing off the edge instead of on the edge.
Easy money this detailing stuff
There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)
Bookmarks