Rotary Usage

**TheJakeR** · 03-13-2009, 11:38 PM

bump for an awesome thread! just went through all 18 pages of it, and a lot of good info here. I just picked up a Makita 9227c and wanted some suggestions as to what pads/backing plates and technique everyone uses.

I came from the PC 7424 and I feel that I will fit right in with the rotary crowd. Thx autopians!!!

**maxgtir** · 03-22-2009, 04:50 PM

hi guys! , im new to rotary and i try my new makita on some spare parts i have for my car ... and i can`t get the pad 100% flat , she always want to spin off and go crazy

**Anthony O.** · 03-23-2009, 08:13 AM

No need to keep it flat, just tilt it until the pad stops skipping. Also make sure you have enough product on your pad. The first initial time you buff you will want to use more product than normal so as to prime the pad.

Also make sure you`re working on clean, uncontaminated paint. That can also cause skipping....if the paint is contaminated.

Anthony

**Accumulator** · 03-23-2009, 09:11 AM

Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco

No need to keep it flat, just tilt it until the pad stops skipping...

As long as you don`t *really* overdo the tilting the worst that`ll happen is you`ll get some worse holograms. It seems like the less you tilt the milder the holograms, so I`d only tilt it enough to avoid having to wrestle with it. If you have to *really* tilt it look for other things like the amount of product/etc.

Heh heh, I`m a little :nervous: about horning in on Anthony Orosco`s advice any, especially when it comes to rotary use

If you check out the recent thread where Dave KG was coaching people on rotary use, you`ll see that they`re all tilting the pads a *little* bit, some more than others.

**jet_m3** · 04-06-2009, 01:13 AM

Lots of good info in here thanks to all the pros who contributed.

Got my 9227 but won`t be trying it out yet until I feel confident (and my 3m backing plates arrive). I`ve been viewing some videos of Todd and Paul on youtube, are there some that are more instructional so I can see the speed and techniques of the makita?

**SuperBee364** · 04-06-2009, 08:29 AM

Originally Posted by Accumulator

As long as you don`t *really* overdo the tilting the worst that`ll happen is you`ll get some worse holograms. It seems like the less you tilt the milder the holograms, so I`d only tilt it enough to avoid having to wrestle with it. If you have to *really* tilt it look for other things like the amount of product/etc.

Heh heh, I`m a little :nervous: about horning in on Anthony Orosco`s advice any, especially when it comes to rotary use

If you check out the recent thread where Dave KG was coaching people on rotary use, you`ll see that they`re all tilting the pads a *little* bit, some more than others.

Yup... so very true. Every time I get a little buffer hop, I think "well, there`s another hologram". Same thing with too much tilt. The pad has to run smooooothly over the paint to not get holograms. Of course, I don`t really stress out too much about it if I`m compounding, but when it comes to final polishing, you just gotta have it smoooooth and light to not get the dreaded grams.

**sdkid** · 05-18-2009, 11:39 PM

Stupid question, but what happens when you barely have any clear coat to work with? For example, a car that has been detailed many time, would that car have less clear coat to work with?

- Tien

**Darkstar752** · 05-19-2009, 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by sdkid

Stupid question, but what happens when you barely have any clear coat to work with? For example, a car that has been detailed many time, would that car have less clear coat to work with?

- Tien

You don`t polish and you use a glaze to fill in the swirls.

**imported_Ivan Rajic** · 05-19-2009, 12:07 AM

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Yup... so very true. Every time I get a little buffer hop, I think "well, there`s another hologram". Same thing with too much tilt. The pad has to run smooooothly over the paint to not get holograms. Of course, I don`t really stress out too much about it if I`m compounding, but when it comes to final polishing, you just gotta have it smoooooth and light to not get the dreaded grams.

Sometimes it`s inevitable... like that Porsche we`ve been talking about... I`ll post a photo or two of that... M03 and FPII on Meg`s 9006 pad marred the paint... PC with 6.5" white and 9006 left buffer trails... rotary with LC black and FPII worked best and PC/FPII/LC white worked well to clean up a buffer trail here and there... man I hate that paint!

**Accumulator** · 05-19-2009, 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by Darkstar752

You don`t polish and you use a glaze to fill in the swirls.

Exactly :xyxthumbs My Jag`s at that point...any additional polishing messes with the ss metallic lacquer and I`m just trading the marring for different issues

**Tru_Shine** · 06-09-2009, 01:36 PM

wow there is tons of info on this forum. how come no one ever uses pnumatic DA`s?

**imported_paintxpert** · 08-28-2009, 06:14 PM

As you attempt to polish you need to know what you need to accomplish and do it with the 12 to 3 oclock position of the pad only. Steer around obstacles. Noone on the internet can show you how to polish...if it is in your blood and you get a feel for it, you will see your results improve. Back cars out into the Sun it is your guide to see how you did. If it has wheel marks pull it back in and use afinish sponge pad with a GOOD product like Menzerna from Germany! Dont use crappy products and dont use alot of product...LESS is more as it relates to product use on the surface.Get your feel for what is comfortable for you. paintxpert

**imported_paintxpert** · 08-28-2009, 06:21 PM

I totally agree with the above advice your getting.... I burned my moms 1968 Galaxie the first time I put a wheel in my hand. That was 38 years ago! Dont polish over 1500 rpms and keep the sponge pads in place until you get good. I finish up with a wool pad that should have been removed from my polisher a month ago. But when I do scratch removal and REJUVENATION I need a Pad with plenty of what I call BITE you dont want that unless you are SUPER SKILLED. I always finish with a sponge pad so there are no complaints. AGAIN use GOOD products.

**imported_paintxpert** · 08-28-2009, 06:28 PM

DAs are junk and you cant do any paint correction with them PERIOD! All do respect of course! Go to advancedautopolishing.com and see my pics. Da work does not create friction....no friction ....no correction on the substraight surface. PERIOD! BLACK is my specialty my customers test my abilities daily....they dont want wheel marks! I have a customer with 80 black stretches. He does NOT want wheel marks on his cars yet he washes them with a brush and bucket. I rejuvenate each one every time I do them. You cannot do it with a DA ...besides its in pieces against the wall by this time! All the best...PRACTICE makes perfect. Keep at it. Be Well!

**imported_paintxpert** · 08-28-2009, 06:35 PM

The Meg.... products have never worked for me. I have nothing against them they just dont work for me...I dont like the results I get under the wheel. I like Menzerna products and of course they are more MONEY. I like Presta products from Italy. We Americans are far behind in this technology mostly products. I like the Green Presta wool pads for anyone who HAS experience. These are the leading products and I dont guess. I do ten to 12 cars a week. I did over 300 cars this year. Every type you can imagine. Paintxpert