Porter Cable PAd question

**themush** · 03-22-2002, 11:00 AM

I have looked throough several threads but cant seem to figure out the way to apply and remove polish.

Can someone please tell me if you both apply and remove with the buffer or is it applied by hand and then buffed off.

Do you wait for it to haze?

A detailed list and reccomended products for a begginer would be appreciated : )

**TonyTahoe** · 03-22-2002, 11:09 AM

I`m in this boat too as are a number of other members who are hiding in heated spaces with their new PC`s revved up waiting for the temps to break 40 degrees.

Maybe one the experts can give their methods for the common products including use of PC for application [/i], speed, & pad; removal, speed, pad; etc...i.e.

SMR and Meguiars 2.0 [/b] - application by hand or PCspeedpad; removal by hand or PCspeedpad

AIO[/b] - application by hand or PCspeedpad; removal by hand or PCspeedpad

SG[/b] - application by hand or PCspeedpad; etc, etc.

**porterdog** · 03-22-2002, 11:11 AM

I know I`d read such a thread two or three times!

Robert

**themush** · 03-22-2002, 11:46 AM

can you point me to one of those threads?

**SouthernBoy** · 03-22-2002, 12:15 PM

...I`ll tell you how I use my PC.

Swirl Mark Removal[/b]
If I`m using SMR, I`ll use either the CMA white or yellow pad. Yellow if the finish is heavily oxidized or hasn`t been taken care of very well. Otherwise, the white. I`m with most guys here; start with the least abrasive, so if you`re unsure, try the white pad and see if you get the results you want.

With the SMR, I start a panel at a pretty high speed (5-6) with firm pressure. As the SMR starts to dissapate, I slowly lighten the pressure slow the PC down down to about 4. Remember, SMR contains abrasive that must be worked long enough to break down. Any residue is removed with a MF towel.

Polish[/b]
For polish (I`m currently messing around with BlackFire), I use the CMA white pad at a speed of 4-5. No abrasives here, so you don`t need to work it as long. I use a clean MF towel to remove it (by hand).

Sealant[/b]
For the sealant (right now BF), I use the CMA grey pad at a speed of 4. One quick pass per panel, and remove residue by hand with a clean MF towel.

General Stuff[/b]
Although the PC is random orbit, I still try to move it along each panel in the same direction as air flows over the car. Be careful to get even coverage.

The key to much of it is don`t use too much product on the pad. If you`re have trouble removing it, you probably used too much.

Sorry for the long post, but you asked! :p

I`m sure I`m forgetting something, and I`m sure others will follow up.

**TonyTahoe** · 03-22-2002, 01:40 PM

I searched too and didn`t really find a complete answer. Thanks to all.

**Steve @ Guru** · 03-22-2002, 02:00 PM

Ahhh, this is why I enjoy the Autopia board. SouthernBoy - your techniques vary quite a bit from mine, though they seem very valid and I`ll give them a shot.

Here`s how I like to use the PC:

3M SMR/Meguiar`s #9 v2.0/Finesse It-II[/b]

I swear by the CMA pads, and I`ve also had good luck with the 3M "waffle" pads (?) not sure what to really call them. Anywho, I`ll start with a yellow foam pad (CMA), apply some product, smush it on the panel a bit, then set the speed on the PC to about 3, or a little less.

I`ll buff with medium pressure using overlapping, front-to-back/fender-to-fender/diagonal-diagonal motions until the area is covered and the product is just starting to haze. Once it`s "flashing", I`ll increase the speed slightly to almost 4, ease up a little on the pressure and keep going over the area using less and less pressure.

When there`s very little residue left, I`ll get a MF towel and buff the surface clean.

Paint Polish (P21S, PPCL, etc), Meguiar`s Swirl Free Polish[/b]

White CMA pad is my favorite for this step. I`ll use the same techinque as described above for application/removal.

Wax/Sealant[/b]

If I`m applying wax, I`ll use the PC with a black/grey CMA pad. I`ll spread the paste wax on the pad with a putty knife, like I was spreading on some peanut butter. I`ll set the speed about 2, and using light pressure I`ll cover an area using overlapping front-to-back motion, and then overlap with fender-to-fender and finish with front-to-back. If the wax starts to haze on me, I`ll increase the speed just a bit - like 2.5, 3 at the most.

I always remove all wax residues with my softest MF towel, never by machine.

For synthetics, I apply/remove by hand only.

Interesting how we each have our own systems, eh?

**BradE** · 03-22-2002, 02:02 PM

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

and I`ve also had good luck with the 3M "waffle" pads</blockquote>

I really like these pads as well. I use them on my DeWalt rotary, very nice pads. :up

**SouthernBoy** · 03-22-2002, 02:35 PM

I`m like you, always like to see other opinions. I haven`t put on any paste wax since I got my PC, but I was wondering whether to use it or do it by hand.

I like your methodology, except for the part about using the putty knife. Next time I put on a wax topper, I`ll dip into that Zymol jar with my fingers and just ooooooze it onto the pad! I just looooove the feel of carnuba!

**Z06ROD** · 03-22-2002, 03:45 PM

[QUOTE]

I`ll buff with medium pressure using overlapping, front-to-back/fender-to-fender/diagonal-diagonal motions until the area is covered and the product is just starting to haze. Once it`s "flashing", I`ll increase the speed slightly to almost 4, ease up a little on the pressure and keep going over the area using less and less pressure.

QUOTE]

What is meant by flashing??

Rod

**Steve @ Guru** · 03-22-2002, 03:57 PM

I probably didn`t use the correct term, but it`s the point where the product isn`t quite hazed, but it`s not liquidy...it only seems to stay that way for a few seconds.

**porterdog** · 03-23-2002, 12:44 AM

...love to hear more. One think I`m curious about is to what use should I put my new Max MF bonnet? As soon as

a) clay is in the house

b) I get my transmission back in

c) The weather is warm enough (15F as we speak!)

...I`ll clay, SMR, AIO, SG, SG, SG, S100. Looking to get as much use out of my new PC as possible.

Thanks!

Robert

**Steve @ Guru** · 03-23-2002, 10:52 AM

I purchased some MF bonnets with the hope of using them on my PC, but was unhappy with the results, so I use them for applying Zaino by hand.

I`ve commented many times, but it`s worth repeating- I love the way the bonnets fit the top half of my hand - sort of like a big mitten, but not as thick as a mitten.

I drizzle some Zaino on the bonnett, and then go to town. Because of the shape/feel of the bonnett, I can really "meter" the application - this is one of the reasons I can get 2 - 3 coats out of an oz. of product, I believe.

HTH!

**themush** · 03-24-2002, 05:14 PM

When applying a product that has to dry to a "haze"

like some waxes, do you apply with the PC abd then stop

and wait?

In a above post a reply said if the wax starts to haze I increase

speed. I thought you were supposed to let wax haze up?

Maybe I`m misunderstanding?

**Steve @ Guru** · 03-24-2002, 05:43 PM

With the PC, I`ve always had better luck working it until it`s nearly buffed off. So, the product starts out wet, flashes, starts to haze, hazes, and then is buffed off with the buffer...

It all sorta depends on what your working on, what you`re working with, and what you`re trying to accomplish. That`s the best part about owning a PC though - you can keep experimenting and learning until you`re happy with the results!