Clear coat failure

**HiSpeed** · 10-16-2001, 11:54 AM

Anyone

**mx5** · 10-16-2001, 12:54 PM

Blues a polish and cleaner without protectant and yellow is a protectant only. RainX is now a Windshield Wax that hazes so you can see where to buff it off.

Can someone tell me the difference between the Marine RainX and the Automotive RainX?

**BradE** · 10-16-2001, 01:16 PM

I tried the Windshield Wax from Rain-X and did not like it. It smears when you use the wipers, and its not minor either is pretty bad. I think it smears more than the orginal Rain-X. Later in the week I am going to use Ron`s tip about lighter fluid and get that stuff off the windows.

**BradE** · 10-16-2001, 01:24 PM

The Marine glass stuff from Rain-X is safe on Plexiglas, I dont think the orginal Rain-X is. Some friends of mine with boats say that the orginal Rain-X is hazes Plexiglas that is found on some boats.

**imported_Slik560** · 03-11-2010, 04:20 PM

I recently bought a 2003 ML320 that has a very typical condition on the rear window pillars ? the clear coat has failed big-time.

My plan is to get the remainder of the old peeling clear coat off, then wet sand the two panels and see if they will polish up to any acceptable level. If not, then I?ll get them re-painted.

The question: Is there any way other than sanding to get the rest of the peeling clear coat off? I was not sure if it could be buffed off with a strong polish or if sanding is the only logical method. The goal is to get it off and still have enough paint left underneath to play with.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

**imported_Termigator** · 03-11-2010, 04:40 PM

Maybe you can try a plastic putty knife. Not sure if that will make it any easier.
The same thing happened to the B-pillars on my 02` Acura TL-S. They were nice and shiny in late 07` before I gave the car to my brother, who happens to neglect cars big time. I visited him a year later and the B-pillars looked like your pics. I know it`s not my car anymore, but it still hurts to see that, after keeping the car in pristine conditions all those years.

**imported_Slik560** · 03-11-2010, 04:54 PM

Thanks. I kinda knew the answer going into this, but I always check to see if someone has come up with a better way. :wizard: Time to stock up on several grades of wetsanding paper and give it hell.

**Old Pirate** · 03-11-2010, 05:40 PM

Looks like time for a recoat of clear is in order IMO. You can try to remove the rest of the CC, and then try sanding it off ( starting off testing it with 4000+ grit ). But recoat at a paint shop is in order. Let us know what you going to do and the results also..................:wizard:

**imported_Luster** · 03-11-2010, 09:38 PM

I`ve re-cleared some c-pillars that looked exactly like that!

The ones I did had virtually NO clearcoat left on them.

I lightly masked off everything, lightly wet-sanded the areas and sprayed clearcoat from a can.

Since you live in the KC area, you can get automotive quality clearcoat at "Auto Color" on 24 Highway in Independence, MO. It is extremely shiny and doesn`t even need to be polished when it dries.

If you`re fairly handy with a rattle can, it would be worth a shot (no pun intended:biggrin

.

**RED JEWELL SS** · 03-12-2010, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by Luster

I`ve re-cleared some c-pillars that looked exactly like that!

The ones I did had virtually NO clearcoat left on them.

I lightly masked off everything, lightly wet-sanded the areas and sprayed clearcoat from a can.

Since you live in the KC area, you can get automotive quality clearcoat at "Auto Color" on 24 Highway in Independence, MO. It is extremely shiny and doesn`t even need to be polished when it dries.

If you`re fairly handy with a rattle can, it would be worth a shot (no pun intended:biggrin

.

I like your idea Bill , I would try and repair it first , the painter would be my second option . :StarWars:

**imported_Luster** · 03-12-2010, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by RED JEWELL SS

I like your idea Bill , I would try and repair it first , the painter would be my second option . :StarWars:

The worse that can happen is that you mess it up. Then you just get some paint thinner and wipe it off and you`re back to square one.:biggrin:

**mink** · 03-13-2010, 12:09 AM

I have seen this in our shop before, I would try to remove remainder of delaminated clear coat with masking tape or duct tape. Press it on rub it down peel it off. Safe

**imported_Slik560** · 03-15-2010, 03:37 PM

Thanks for all of the feedback, especially the tape idea - I`m going to try that first before getting out the #2500-4000 papers. On my side of the state line we have Overland Auto Paints, which has been there forever. I think they may carry that kind of clear spray as well. For no larger than these pillars are, I`ll likely try masking it off and using the spray can method. [when and if the weather ever cooperates - I`ll have to take the SL out of the garage to put the ML inside to do the spraying]

Someone also suggested a vinyl wrap on the pillars once they are smooth as an alternative. Bill, do you know of any vinyl guys in our area? This would definitely be a last resort.

**imported_Luster** · 03-15-2010, 03:42 PM

Originally Posted by Slik560

Someone also suggested a vinyl wrap on the pillars once they are smooth as an alternative. Bill, do you know of any vinyl guys in our area? This would definitely be a last resort.

That`s really not a bad idea! I don`t know of any vinyl suppliers, but you might find some exterior grade vinyl on ebay and just order a very small amount. Then lay it out on the pillars (with the backing still on), cut to fit, peel and press!

Sounds like a cheap alternative. Some of the exterior vinyls out there are rated at 7-10 years longevity. Hmmmmmmmmm.....

**imported_Slik560** · 03-15-2010, 03:58 PM

Now that I think about it, some of the sign companies do vehicle wraps for advertising, etc., like Signs By Tomorrow. I bet I could get the pillars wrapped in black for a reasonable amount. Or at least I could get the vinyl from them. I`ll let you know what I find out!!