Polishing non-metal panels

[imported_jking]

I am doing a Grand Prix in the morn, was wanting to know if I should do anything different on the bumper panels as they are plastic or polyurothene and have many scuffs and scratches. Will be using Men IP, FP, what pad combo would be suggested for this area? Thanks for any info.

[imported_jking]

Forgot to say I will be using my Flex, and PC in the harder to reach areas.

[Old Pirate]

Try the PC first with on the bumper area. If that doesn`t works for you, then moved up to your flex. Hope to see some pictures. Go with the Men IP first of with a white pad, If it doesn`t work to well moved up to a orange pad.

[imported_jking]

Thanks Angelo I will try that. What speed would you suggest? I usually go 3.5 to 4 with IP.

[imported_jking]

I wont be posting any pictures as my camera is on the blink.

[Tuck91]

FWIW, I recently tried Meguiars Ultimate Compound on a couple metal surfaces and it turned out LSP ready

[Puckman]

In my experience, while heat is somewhat of a benefit on metallic surfaces it is NOT on non metal(plastics)! The potential of paint damage on plastic and non metal surfaces is much closer so I adjust my approach a bit with milder pads, pressure, product, machine speeds etc. I will say I`m about 90% rotary and even use it on non metal surfaces so that`s where I`m coming from with my experience.

I will say that a 4" pad and a PC is sometimes perfect for plastic trim defect correction and I go that route sometimes. I still use speed 6 most of the time but alter my pressure a bit and "lighten up" to get the least aggressive but most effective correction. Soemtimes I`ll back it down to 4.5 - 5 on the speed and refine the finish. The correction effort depends on the level of defects but heat should be avoided as much as possible with plastic pieces. I agree with Angelo`s recommendation of IP and a white pad to start with if that`s what you have but again, only you know the level of defects you need to correct.