Polishing techniques and product advice specifically for RIDS?

[JustJesus]

...

JustJesus- Hope the clear on the Yaris is thicker than that on....say...the Mazda I used to have. ANY wetsanding on that one would result in clearcaot failure once subjected to UV exposure; the clear on some Japanese vehicles is incredibly thin.

I`ll keep an eye on the hood (and make sure it`s protected!!)

Well, my roof has clear coat failure. Readings with PTG on the non-clear section is 3.31 mils, whereas it`s 4.62 on an adjacent section with clear.

[TheMeanGreen]

TheMeanGreen- Do the oils in M205 cause issues for you? They simply drive me *nuts*, plus I can`t get quite the same finish with it that I get with the HD Polish.

Still waiting for somebody to buy my gallon of M205 so it can get put to good use

JustJesus- Hope the clear on the Yaris is thicker than that on....say...the Mazda I used to have. ANY wetsanding on that one would result in clearcaot failure once subjected to UV exposure; the clear on some Japanese vehicles is incredibly thin.

Accumulator: Not totally, on a relatively healthy panel, they allow me to work the product longer, and on a panel with dead paint, they aid in clogging my pad more quickly. For a light swirl correction or a serious color restoration, I go to M205/LC CCS White. For me, this combo has the ability to cut well with 3-4 passes and finish well with a very light pressure 5th or 6th pass. I find that pad pressure plays a big role. But then again, I am not going for perfection as our cars are DD`s, each having over 110k on the clock. I ALWAYS do an IPA wipe down (91% IPA in a 1:1 solution with H20 ), so I don`t have much room to talk in terms of oiling issues. As far as oily products are concerned, I picked up a bottle of Wolfgang`s Paint Work Cleansing Polish to aid in stripping the FK1000p. When working in tandem with light pressure and a Black LC CCS, holograms were introduced. I knew that that polish had no cut, but I had no idea that it would haze whilst using a Black LC CCS; the bottle said to not prime the pad, this may have been the culprit. I then followed the failed polishing session with trusty M205 on a White LC CCS pad. For light swirl removal, I have a feeling that the winning combo will be M205 (maybe watered down) on a Blue or Black LC CCS.

I would buy your gallon of M205, but I only use my 32oz to take care of two cars. Your issues with the oils could be due to your climate, pad size, and chemical make up of your specific m205. A few months ago I bought my first 32oz bottle of M205 and the water and polishing solution where not in equilibrium, and the product was very watery. I`ve since replaced it and have yet to call Meg`s customer service, although I have had plenty of time to spend doing other things.

[TheMeanGreen]

I`ll keep an eye on the hood (and make sure it`s protected!!)

Well, my roof has clear coat failure. Readings with PTG on the non-clear section is 3.31 mils, whereas it`s 4.62 on an adjacent section with clear.

Thin paint is why I love glazes.

[JustJesus]

Thin paint is why I love glazes.

or vehicles like my Jeep that will get run in trails, get rock chips, boulder smashings, tree scratches, etc..
(well, haven`t actually put that idea to the test, yet)

[TheMeanGreen]

or vehicles like my Jeep that will get run in trails, get rock chips, boulder smashings, tree scratches, etc..
(well, haven`t actually put that idea to the test, yet)

For the Jeep, why don`t you look into getting it Line-X`d or Monstalined?

[WaxAddict]

Wow, if 1 mil = 25.4 microns, and the total thickness of the Clear Coat alone is even less, I would be really worried..
Good luck..
Dan F

Cautious more so than worried. Nissans like mine typically measure 4 mils. It`s really thin right off the boat. Environmentally friendly paint... my arse. Seen all them Hondas and Nissans needing resprays? Around here in Florida, it`s so common to see Altimas and Civics missing ALL the paint on the roof. Having these cars in Carsmetics and Maco can`t be "environmentally friendly".

p.s. my door jams in the Z measure 1.8 mils !!!!

[Accumulator]

TheMeanGreen- Thanks for the response.

I`m guessing the "holograms" were from residual FK1000K, right, or were they *real* holgorams that needed abraded away?

Interesting that the IPA strips the M205`s TSO for you, it wasn`t very effective for me (Hi-Temp Akyra Clean worked well though).

It`s not like I hate on M205, used a lot of it for a while. But it seldom does much correction for me (even with the Flex 3401 and an aggressive pad), nor does it finish as well as I`d like (even via Cyclo with various pads), or rather I should say that it doesn`t finish as well as some other Finishing Polishes do.

And I too had to have mine replaced, the gallon I have now was sent to replace some from a bad batch.

[TheMeanGreen]

TheMeanGreen- Thanks for the response.

I`m guessing the "holograms" were from residual FK1000K, right, or were they *real* holgorams that needed abraded away?

Interesting that the IPA strips the M205`s TSO for you, it wasn`t very effective for me (Hi-Temp Akyra Clean worked well though).

It`s not like I hate on M205, used a lot of it for a while. But it seldom does much correction for me (even with the Flex 3401 and an aggressive pad), nor does it finish as well as I`d like (even via Cyclo with various pads), or rather I should say that it doesn`t finish as well as some other Finishing Polishes do.

And I too had to have mine replaced, the gallon I have now was sent to replace some from a bad batch.

Accumulator- I suspect the *holograms* are from the FK1000p, the other day I top coated my FK1000p panels with Natty`s Black versus a panel with EX-P, I was chasing *holograms* on the FK panels using an 810gsm MF. In my personal experience, I can`t layer it to save my life unless it gets really cold outside. And when I do an IPA wipe down, I use an IPA soaked WW, drench the panel, and let it sit for a few seconds, wipe away, and then buff dry.

When I was using the WG Paint Work Polish, the pad (LC CCS Black) and lack of lubricity induced haze (The directions for WG said to put a few pea`s on the pad). Forgive me for blowing my horn, but my paint is hologram free. However, there are minor swirls (at the end of the sealants life) and plenty of tiny CC chips from the PO`s 143k of ownership, oh and don`t let me forget the deeper scratches (that could come out with removing enough CC) and the bird dirt stain on the driver`s rear quarter panel, I could keep going on and on about the paint imperfections, so we might be looking for different levels of finishing. I just know that at the end of the day, she looks pretty mean for a green machine.

[Mary B]

This weekend I saw 0.5 mil dissapear from using 4" orange + PB Master Cut. Luckily I didn`t care, but on my "real" car or someone elses that could be half the clear! Sure the RID was gone.. but... I`d have to catalog that area and remember to not cut it again, which is a pain.

Isn`t PB`s Master Cut one of the heaviest compound out there, used for fresh paint that`s been denibbed & wet sanded.
Correct me if I`m wrong

[WaxAddict]

I have a bottle of m205 and just can`t find the love in there. No problem though, I`m sure m101/Menz3800 will do.
I`m having great luck with Adapt, but not so much for RIDS. Need more cut.

[WaxAddict]

Isn`t PB`s Master Cut one of the heaviest compound out there, used for fresh paint that`s been denibbed & wet sanded.
Correct me if I`m wrong

It`s heavy but I see less cut than 3M compound but apples to apples is hard because they were different cars. Master Cut has worked great for me for fixing paint transfer, overspray, and scrapes due to bushes/trees. Follow-up polish is required.

[Accumulator]

TheMeanGreen- I too often run into issues if I try to layer FK1000P without waiting at least a few days.

Sometime when you`re eager to spend money try one of the "oil stripping" paint-washes in place of the IPA, you might be pleasantly surprised by how much better such stuff works.

[JustJesus]

For the Jeep, why don`t you look into getting it Line-X`d or Monstalined?

Not for exterior, if it`s the hard black stuff I`m thinking it is. For interior, I like having carpet.

... it`s so common to see Altimas and Civics missing ALL the paint on the roof. Having these cars in Carsmetics and Maco can`t be "environmentally friendly".

p.s. my door jams in the Z measure 1.8 mils !!!!

Same her in Southern Cali. SOOOO many Nissans and Hondas needing their roofs redone.

1.8??? WHOA. You think it`s got clear coat on there? When I was dong the area on my hatchback, I wiped it down with some [stuff] to clean it up, and I was getting color transfer onto the MF I was using. I figured no clear coat in that area.

[TheMeanGreen]

TheMeanGreen- I too often run into issues if I try to layer FK1000P without waiting at least a few days.

Sometime when you`re eager to spend money try one of the "oil stripping" paint-washes in place of the IPA, you might be pleasantly surprised by how much better such stuff works.

Please, do expand this statement.

[Accumulator]

Please, do expand this statement.

You mean the bit about "oil stripping"? OK..

I *really* struggled to the the M205`s TSO off/out of certain paints...IPA just didn`t do it 100%. I tried my old Prep Wash (from Top of the Line, currently called AkyraClean IIRC) and that worked great. I`ve also used ValuGard`s "A" and that worked like magic too. Then there are all the Paint Prep/Eraser/etc. products that I`ve never tried. I just couldn`t get the results I wanted with IPA and the stuff that *did* work was like a miracle in comparison.

But hey, if the IPA is working for you then don`t worry about it! Yet another of thos !YMMV! things... not like everybody`s experiences mirror mine.