Or 1 coat KAIO and 2 coats FK1000p?
Usually I can get an answer from Accumulator, but he`s not been on.
This is the duo I am using to ready up the paint for our Canadian winter.
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Or 1 coat KAIO and 2 coats FK1000p?
Usually I can get an answer from Accumulator, but he`s not been on.
This is the duo I am using to ready up the paint for our Canadian winter.
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Cars: bringing people togetherPost Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikeshercar liked this post
How long between FK coats, or do I need to wait as it is a high temp wax?
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I can`t recall the rule on that but Ron Ketchum has discussed what`s appropriate in the past. I`m sure Accumulator will know.
Cars: bringing people together
FK1000P layers right away in the functional sense; it was developed as a mold-release wax and they just put on coat after coat almost immediately when using it for that. BUT, "functional" doesn`t always equal "attractive" and the problem is with solvent-action and uneven curing causing things to look bad.
So, Ron always said you can layer FK1000P right away, and that had been working OK for me UNTIL it didn`t and then I got some pretty nasty pseudo-holograms (presumbably from solvent-action). Ron said it was all my fault and that I should`ve buffed it off differently but he was *also* telling me to buff it off with cotton (!) which isn`t touching *my* paint, so I basically blew him off on that one.
The idea is that you need to get max air-exposure on the FK1000P, so you use a relatively coarse buffing medium (hence the cotton towel idea) with multiple passes- first break the haze, then buff more, which is what I do anyhow..he kind of lost me there as I couldn`t figure out what he`d change about my technique other than the cotton towel thing. Eh, it was just one of those things were Ron and I weren`t gonna be on the same page so I decided to just wait between coats.
Waiting solves the problem for me. BUT somebody else might not even have to wait at all (hey, I didn`t for many sessions until it bit me). I`d just do one coat now and another after each of a series of regularly-scheduled washes. But a day`s wait between coats would probably work fine too. Maybe even just 12 hours..but I`m afraid to try it. At least with this product one coat is plenty for a long time, so it`s not like you have to hurry up with the second one as when using something like an AIO or even a Collinite wax.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 1 Thanks, 0 Dislikesmarinesoup liked this postmarinesoup thanked for this post
So I applied my KAIO and then FK1000p after 12 hours and I must say that I`m more impressed with the results than I thought I would be.
The KAIO went on smooth with a somewhat wet look and then after the FK it made it it more glossy looking rather than wet.
I do like the final results on my black metal paint.
I am now debating wether I should apply a second coat of FK after my next wash. If time and weather permit I think I probably will.
I did a thin layer of the FK1000p only using a small amount from my sample tin.
Not sure what method you applied your FK with Accumulator, but I used my DA with a 5" LC white pad and it worked fine at 3-4.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesRonkh liked this post
marinesoup- Glad it`s going well, and if that sample tin is as small as mine was then you`re using a good, minimal, amount of product.
I`ve never tried it by machine, but the more good reports I hear from people doing it that way the more I think I might.
Lol hercar
Now THAT would be a lot of wax!
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Small tin, here`s a comparison with a coffee K cup.
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I have used a GG 6" DA to put the Fk1000p on and use a plastic knife and smear it on a waxing pad. It save a work out on the fingers trying to hang onto the pad and the arms smearing it on. Of course thin is the key but I am from the younger days of Turtle Wax where if a little is good a lot is better. I work it in good trying to use a minimal amount and seems to come off decent if you can get it at the point it begins to haze. Seems if I waited too long before removing it then it seemed to get a little difficult to remove.
Dean.
skibik- Much as I harp on the thin *thin* *THIN* applications, I don`t really have a problem with people slathering product on as long as it doesn`t compromise the results. The BUT here is that with the FK1000P too much *can* lead to issues, especially if you`re trying to layer. I also have *ZERO* problem with "working the LSP in" but again, if layering FK1000P you gotta be careful that you don`t do a solvent-action number on whatever`s already on the pait (including prevously applied FK1000P).
I you want to *work* a LSP, especially by machine, you`d love M16. But that`s another one that can bite you if you put it on too thick (so just keep working it to spread it out).
I use one of these Buff & Shine dual pads to apply FK1000p by hand. It`s a snap--much faster than the DA--and doesn`t put stress on the fingers. The foam is the same euro foam from their red pad which is soft but the pores are dense so it doesn`t soak up allot of product.
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"If your Personal Beliefs deny what`s objectively true about the world, then they`re more accurately called Personal Delusions" Neil deGrasse TysonPost Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
Well I just completed my second thin coat of fk100p with no problems. I waited about 10 days between coats, no solvent action.
I did notice that the second coat was a more sterile shine, but still looks awesome.
I think I`m going to stick with the one coat KAIO and 2 coats of FK1000p.
Thanks for all the input.
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I just ordered a tin of fk 1000p I use 845 but as we know its a pain to work with in colder temps. Shawnf350 loves it so I am going to give a try, if its as good as 845 I to will be dancing in the streets.
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