Flex vs. BOSS vs Rupes: Im not seeing something here..

**jrock645** · 10-01-2015, 01:01 PM

After getting a rotary here lately, its my tool of choice. Smooth, quiet and easy on the body. I still have a lot to learn with it, but its a far more enjoyable machine to use than any of the DA`s.

**felixthecat** · 12-19-2015, 07:18 AM

SwedishRider, what machine did you end up with? Have you thought about the new Mkll`s?

**WhyteWizard** · 12-19-2015, 11:03 AM

I was looking around the interwebs and came across these threads at different forums. Since the Makita BO6040 is my second step - swirl removal - most the time after my rotary and a good part of the time my only step I thought it was interesting.

Since I`ve been informed I can`t link to other forums you`ll have to look for yourself if you want to see what I found so interesting.

Robert

**Mp0wer** · 12-19-2015, 12:38 PM

Originally Posted by derekdunlop62

I totally agree that the Flex vrg can wear you out, but if you limit yourself to having one machine this would be my choice as it can correct to a level much better than a bigfoot. On paint that requires alot of correcting i start with my Rotary Flex first to do the bulk of the work and would finish off with the flex vrg or the bigfoot.

You`d be surprised how much correction you can get using a long throw polisher with a microfiber cutting pad.

**Mike lambert** · 12-19-2015, 02:31 PM

I used a flex for 5 minutes at a class, well made machine but I will never buy one. At NXT east I saw correction using a Rupes that equaled a rotary tool. I believe it is knowing the product and technique. The flex is basically a rotary if you think about it. I don`t own a rotary at all since listening to Kevin Brown and concentrating on technique. As far as picking a machine, I stay with the company that was the first.

**Detailology Oz** · 12-20-2015, 06:54 AM

Even if a DA can match a rotary in correction, the finish is always the most important and limiting yourself to just forced or random orbital or just rotary to me is foolish

Have them all and use accordingly
Rotary is still the best for finishing but can be frustrating.
DA is not the be all end all, regardless of who may say it is, microfibre pads too. Great but not perfect.

the more actions, machines, pads, plates and techniques, the more you can adapt.

No one way or system is king. It`s not a perfect science.

I have many machines and will have many more this year. Heavy ones, light ones
A tradesman must have all the right tools.

**felixthecat** · 01-01-2016, 12:10 PM

Thats why there is different machines & products as everyone is different & ever paint correction is going to be different.

**Detail Impressions** · 01-01-2016, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by felixthecat

Thats why there is different machines & products as everyone is different & ever paint correction is going to be different.

And I like to add everyone has their prefered method by the operator. Many different ways to have the same results........
Just like compound/polish/pad combinations.

**danlc95** · 01-15-2016, 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by Thomas Dekany

Start using the pink cutting pads and you`ll be able to control it effortlessly

Those, and the green Hex Logic / Buff and Shine are the only foam cutting pads I use anymore - unless I`m using the Rupes system.

I started on the megs wool and burgundy cutting pads on a rotary a long time ago. When I got back into this in 2010 I had a couple of generic foams for the PC. In 2013 things got serious, and I selected the green, blue, and red Hex pads. On my first paid detail, I burned paint with the green pad dressed with Ultimate Compound, on the PC....

I then tried orange and yellow cutting pads, and never got the cut out of them that the green pads gave. Incidentally, I cut faster with the PC than the flex or duetto. I use it like I used to use the rotary, with minimal pressure.

Try free spinning the PC at speed 3. If you place you finger at just the right pressure, you will burn your skin. That about how much pressure I use on that tool, and the pink ccs/flat, or green Hex/b&s are the foams that work best for me. Same principal applies for the blue b&s/hex, but I only really use that pads for one step polishing, or finishing.

I have a small write up at AG (dlc95), in my pic gallery. The pics are of the pc, green hex, and uc removing 1000 grit sanding marks, and the pc, blue pad, up removing 2000. I detail the process there.