Unable to remove deep defects with Rupes + MF + 105?

[Stokdgs]

Dan,

You and I are pretty much on the same page, but just to be clear, for others reading this exchange. The point of using soaked paper without a block is to not take out the orange peel and create a difference between areas.

All the best,
Robert

Robert,
I get what you mean precisely and understand how the process can work in hands that are trained to sand for this result..
Thanks for the clarification to the Board..
Dan F

[Accumulator]

Common scratching and heavy swirling is often much deeper than wetsanding marks!

Hey, that`s a great point! The typical RIDS (if there is such a thing!) would be quite a coarse-grit sanding scratch, it`s just that there`s only one of them..like a single piece of abrasive from the paper.

Personally, I typically won`t take every scratch out of the cars I do. The reason being, even if I can do it without damaging the paint, I`m leaving a land mine for the next guy...

That`s another great point, and one that even non-Pro Autopians should pay attention to. Get the car all perfect with a "whatever it takes!" mindset and then some kind of Real World Event mars it...

[number1show]

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. Wetsanding is beyond the scope of what I`m willing to learn, and since it`s just a practice hood I didn`t care too much.


I went at it with a wool pad, the G21 and M105. After a *lot* of passes, I managed to get about 1/3 of those deep suckers out. It didn`t get a ton better but did improve it.

The good news is, I`ve learned that it is virtually impossible to burn through paint.

Toward the end I was actively trying to see how long it would take to get to bare metal, or even through the clear and I got tired of pushing so hard and waiting for the hood to cool down.

[WhyteWizard]

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. Wetsanding is beyond the scope of what I`m willing to learn, and since it`s just a practice hood I didn`t care too much.


I went at it with a wool pad, the G21 and M105. After a *lot* of passes, I managed to get about 1/3 of those deep suckers out. It didn`t get a ton better but did improve it.

The good news is, I`ve learned that it is virtually impossible to burn through paint.

Toward the end I was actively trying to see how long it would take to get to bare metal, or even through the clear and I got tired of pushing so hard and waiting for the hood to cool down.

As I`ve said, I can`t imagine a professional - someone who`s asking to be paid for their work - not using a rotary for deep scratches, color sanding, etc. unless of course, the charge isn`t connected to the amount of time spent. If the charge is connected to time spent and someone is using a technique that`s slower than a readily available alternative then the question becomes, "Are we asking our clients to subsidize our incompetence?" Still, there`s so much effort going into making pads and polishes to work with random orbitals that they are getting somewhat faster, but I don`t see any way they`ll ever be as fast as the rotary. The same principle would apply if someone refused to use a random orbital and insisted on doing everything by hand with soft cloth and fine, fine abrasive.

Anyway, good luck.

Robert

[The Driver]

Try 205

Personally, if you can catch the scratches with a nail you most likely need to sand or even worse it`s not 100% fixable but maybe be semi blend-able.

[Accumulator]

number1show- Just remember how little clear you can remove before precipiating failure, it`s sure not much.

Just FWIW, IMO wetsanding is a *LOT* easier to learn than running a rotary is. Well, running a rotary well enough to not leave any holograms.

And, heh heh, despite doing lots of very aggressive work with a rotary, the only times I`ve actually damaged paint I was using a PC with a fairly mild pad/product combo..and it was factory paint I was working on.

Personally, if you can catch the scratches with a nail you most likely need to sand or even worse it`s not 100% fixable but maybe be semi blend-able.

I know I`m a broken record on the subject, but IMO if it can catch your nail it`ll need a lot more clear removed than is safe (long-term-wise). Yeah, I know...people here fix stuff that deep all the time...but let`s see those areas after a decade in the sun. In my area there`s a virtual epidemic of clearcoar failure, and in most cases you can easily see just why it happened. Sometimes you can even tell what size pad the guy used when overthinning the clear.

[The Driver]

number1show- Just remember how little clear you can remove before precipiating failure, it`s sure not much.

Just FWIW, IMO wetsanding is a *LOT* easier to learn than running a rotary is. Well, running a rotary well enough to not leave any holograms.

And, heh heh, despite doing lots of very aggressive work with a rotary, the only times I`ve actually damaged paint I was using a PC with a fairly mild pad/product combo..and it was factory paint I was working on.



I know I`m a broken record on the subject, but IMO if it can catch your nail it`ll need a lot more clear removed than is safe (long-term-wise). Yeah, I know...people here fix stuff that deep all the time...but let`s see those areas after a decade in the sun. In my area there`s a virtual epidemic of clearcoar failure, and in most cases you can easily see just why it happened. Sometimes you can even tell what size pad the guy used when overthinning the clear.

I 100% Agree, I personally wouldn`t but on a test hood it`s great to see an get a feel first hand for how deep clear really goes. You NEED PPG for anything that deep IMO.

[Accumulator]

The Driver- yeah, my gauge has saved me from a few "oops!" situations, even though I`m so conservative about correction. When it`s somebody else`s car you just never know what you`re dealing with.