Practicing

[nitronic]

I bought a brand new car and not really comfortable running a polisher on it yet. However I have an older pickup that I don`t really care if anything happens to it.

I don`t have a paint thickness gauge and they seem a bit pricey... this pickup I speak of still had some reflectivity left, so I assume there is clear coat left on most of it. Is that a safe assumption? I may get some polishing stuff and start practicing on it.

THanks,

Nic

[Stokdgs]

Nic,

Your new car will have a uniform amount of paint on it except on all sharp edges, which cannot hold as much paint without it running off, as say, a flat hood or fender, for example..
So, you will be safer on the new vehicle paint provided you dont go crazy with a Rotary using a very aggressive compound and wool pads, for example..

What is the other truck and what color ? Solid color or metallic ? What is the condition of the paint ?

What were you thinking of doing with what brand machine, products, and pads ?

Sounds like a fun project !
Dan F

[nitronic]

What is the other truck and what color ? Solid color or metallic ? What is the condition of the paint ?

What were you thinking of doing with what brand machine, products, and pads ?

Sounds like a fun project !
Dan F

It`s a 2002 Silverado, solid white in color. It has some dents but plenty of undented body left to practice on. The condition of the paint is very dirty but I can still see reflections of recognizable objects if I look at it.

What little research I`ve done over the past few weeks suggests that the Porter Cable 7424XP (I think) is an affordable and safe machine to use. I`ve seen a lot of different brands of pads although Hexlogic sticks in my head. And I`m open to trying different products on the pads, and the one that sticks in my head still is Meguiars 105 and 205 which probably isn`t exactly the right name but enough for you to know what I`m thinking of.

[nitronic]

What is the other truck and what color ? Solid color or metallic ? What is the condition of the paint ?
What were you thinking of doing with what brand machine, products, and pads ?
Sounds like a fun project !
Dan F

It`s a 2002 Silverado, solid white in color. It has some dents but plenty of undented body left to practice on. The condition of the paint is very dirty but I can still see reflections of recognizable objects if I look at it.

What little research I`ve done over the past few weeks suggests that the Porter Cable 7424XP (I think) is an affordable and safe machine to use. I`ve seen a lot of different brands of pads although Hexlogic sticks in my head.

And I`m open to trying different products on the pads, and the one that sticks in my head still is Meguiars 105 and 205 which probably isn`t exactly the right name but enough for you to know what I`m thinking of.

So it wouldn`t be bad to practice using the clay and polish and what not. If I damage it, I don`t really care, it`s not worth much and at the end of the day it still does what I bought it for.

[Trouble]

Been polishing cars for 33 years and have never laid eyes on a PTG. You won`t be needing that if you have common sense

What polisher?

[Trouble]

Does a paint thickness gauge tell you how thick the clear is or does it measure both paint & clear? If the latter is so then it seems pretty pointless/unreliable IMO

[nitronic]

I like to think I have common sense. But this is not my field of expertise; knowing that you`ve done this for 33 years and never used a gauge, I can probably do without one too.

I haven`t bought anything yet but Porter Cable 7424 XP is one I`ve read of many people using and I think the autopia store even sells and sounds like it`s hard to use it and damage a finish unless you rake the power cable across the finish.

[Migue]

I started out on a tight budget a few years ago and went with the pre-XP PC7424 (still have it and works without any issues). First vehicle i corrected was my own, a jet black Mercedes SUV and it came out looking great IMO and everyone else`s that saw it at the Shop i used to work at. To this day i haven`t burned through any paint using a PC, it is VERY user friendly and ideal if you just plan on doing paint correction here and there yet don`t want to spend lots of $ .

What I did was I used the leftover $ to get extra pads and products/equipment until I decided I wanted to get something with more power. The below was done with a PC and M105 & M205.

[nitronic]

I started out on a tight budget a few years ago and went with the pre-XP PC7424 (still have it and works without any issues). First vehicle i corrected was my own, a jet black Mercedes SUV and it came out looking great IMO and everyone else`s that saw it at the Shop i used to work at. To this day i haven`t burned through any paint using a PC, it is VERY user friendly and ideal if you just plan on doing paint correction here and there yet don`t want to spend lots of $ .

What I did was I used the leftover $ to get extra pads and products/equipment until I decided I wanted to get something with more power. The below was done with a PC and M105 & M205.

What is different about the XP other than that it`s newer?

[Migue]

What is different about the XP other than that it`s newer?

Unfortunately I never tried the XP(wasn`t available back then), from what i`ve read is that is has more Power, so if i had to do it again i would try the XP out. I was honestly considering buying an XP even though i already had the previous one, but i just decided to wait, save more $ and buy a Flex. The XP came out shortly after i had purchased my "standard" one, so i missed out on that but it`s all good I still have no regrets and my PC still works just like the first day i used it.

I`m sure someone that has experience with the XP will chime in and give you some input.

*EDIT: I found what seems to be a helpful link regarding your XP vs. Standard Inquiry over at AG : PC 7424 vs 7424XP - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum *