M205+rotary=small holograms

[Accumulator]

Striker- Watch that you don`t take too much paint off trying to eliminate the holograms via rotary. I`d simply finish it up with a DA/RO.

Remember that M205 uses nondiminishing abrasives; it doesn`t break down it just dries out. And with all the oils to deal with, getting it hologram-free would be utterly beyond *my* threshold of frustration.

[MooreImpressive]

like Dan said, 2000 rpm is way too fast for a finishing polish. like...nearly double.

[Striker]

So from what I gather here, I need something besides 205 and different pads? Or can I do it with my white pad and DA?

[Stokdgs]

Good on the towel ready to wipe down the slightly moist pad after you finish that section..

I said the Lake Country Hydro-Shred Cyan Pad will correct incredibly well AND finish down the same..

Your Flat White Foam pad should be able to get a really great finish down if used properly..

Always keep the pad flat on the surface you are working - never use the edge unless you are prepared to possibly leave some marks in the finish, which can be removed by using the flat side of the pad..
Keep the pad moving smoothly with the same pressure across the surface.. No jittery, jumpy, erratic motions.. Just smooth, flat, passes, overlapping each pass..

One white pad will not work, one any pad will never work either, one needs a lot of pads to do anything serious with great results, and experience that comes through practice..
Good luck,
Dan F

[Striker]

I`ve got three or four white pads....one 3m finishing pad.

[Striker]

Quick update, the job is done. A friend saved the day with some 85rd he had and my blue 3m finishing pad. Three steps but it turned out great.

I definitely enjoy the end results but Machine polishing is not my way of fun lol. Very happy it`s finally done.

[Accumulator]

Striker- So glad it turned out OK and that you`re finished with it.

[Jacamóvel]

Shouldn`t be that hard to finish it. The problem as I see was that your speed was way to high. Usually I finish down at 1000-800rpm and a black lc pad. The white is a polishing pad, so you won`t get the ever best finish with m205. The key with the rotary is slower speeds and constant pressure with a straight pad. Good to know that you managed to finish it.

[Stokdgs]

Shouldn`t be that hard to finish it. The problem as I see was that your speed was way to high. Usually I finish down at 1000-800rpm and a black lc pad. The white is a polishing pad, so you won`t get the ever best finish with m205. The key with the rotary is slower speeds and constant pressure with a straight pad. Good to know that you managed to finish it.

This is absolutely correct for those of us who use Rotary Power... Slower speeds, constant flat, pressure, straight pad...
And I will add one if I may - keep the pad just moist enough to allow it to work the compound into the paint and finish down beautifully..
Dan F

[Mike lambert]

I would follow with a finishing pad on the da, it doesn`t take long and you get a great finish.

[jerry r]

The only difference is when, like me you use fFerecla G3 with a rotary, its slow speed with the heavy cut,first pass and high speed with the finishing, ultra, if you use it to slow it will dry up to quick and fade the higher the speed on the finishing the better the finish,and yes the temp gets up there, today on a ford I clocked 110 cel with my panel poper :rotary:you now your getting there when the bottom of the doors pop and expand with the heat,

[Paintxpert]

Mastering "Rotary" polishing can be a challenge. Perseverance is the key. If you have nothing else. Perseverance will overcome any obstacle.

[Brownie]

2 Cents....I`ve got 100`s of hours with M205. One key to success is wet buff it, ensuring that you do not extend the buffing time beyond the point where the product begins to dry-up. That point in the buffing cycle ...excessive heat and friction occur, regardless of what pad you`re using and you`ll impart holograms. Take a look at your pad...if the product is built up in the center, you inadvertently dry buffing. Always pick up your product at 11 & 2 (clock analogy) to evenly distribute product to the outside of the pad. This is where the heat is most significant.

When using M205, apply moderate pressure for 2-3 passes and finish with no pressure (buffer weight or even ever-so-slightly lifting the polisher) for 2 passes or so.

(Don`t want to sound like a broken record, but worked at Meguiar`s for 17 years and was part of the team that developed M205)...a great product!

[Accumulator]

2 Cents....I`ve got 100`s of hours with M205. One key to success is wet buff it, ensuring that you do not extend the buffing time beyond the point where the product begins to dry-up...

IMO/IME that`s good advice for the vast majority of abrasive compounds and polishes, and not just when using a rotary.

[RaysWay]

2 Cents....I`ve got 100`s of hours with M205. One key to success is wet buff it, ensuring that you do not extend the buffing time beyond the point where the product begins to dry-up. That point in the buffing cycle ...excessive heat and friction occur, regardless of what pad you`re using and you`ll impart holograms. Take a look at your pad...if the product is built up in the center, you inadvertently dry buffing. Always pick up your product at 11 & 2 (clock analogy) to evenly distribute product to the outside of the pad. This is where the heat is most significant.

When using M205, apply moderate pressure for 2-3 passes and finish with no pressure (buffer weight or even ever-so-slightly lifting the polisher) for 2 passes or so.

(Don`t want to sound like a broken record, but worked at Meguiar`s for 17 years and was part of the team that developed M205)...a great product!

I`m loving the recent knowledge you`ve been sharing Mr. Jeff Brown! Thanks