Long Throw Polisher Technique?????

[TroyScherer]

Correct me if I`m wrong Troy, it doesn`t use a foam interface, it`s solid aluminum with hook/loop right on the aluminum?

Yes. It is a full aluminum plate setup with no foam interface.

Honestly the full aluminum thing made me nervous at first but after using it I can see how it isn`t an issue on large flat and open areas. When trying to get in tight space where you could bump something I would switch back to stock. It is make to clear the shroud with no need tot he washer mod. That is something I like as it mean more screw thread to hold. the more I think about it the lack of foam interface is kinda like the reason we like and use thin foam pads. Less flex and movement of the pad means more cut in theory.

[RaskyR1]

Yes. It is a full aluminum plate setup with no foam interface.

Honestly the full aluminum thing made me nervous at first but after using it I can see how it isn`t an issue on large flat and open areas. When trying to get in tight space where you could bump something I would switch back to stock. It is make to clear the shroud with no need tot he washer mod. That is something I like as it mean more screw thread to hold. the more I think about it the lack of foam interface is kinda like the reason we like and use thin foam pads. Less flex and movement of the pad means more cut in theory.

The BP`s are interesting. I have to wonder how they handle the heat???

[TroyScherer]

The BP`s are interesting. I have to wonder how they handle the heat???

I wondered that as well. I didn`t get to do enough to generate a lot of heat. They way Kai explained it to me is that they work in quick burst running at high speed to get quick correction. So I am not sure how much heat would be generated.

I also have noted that Rupes has said these are "not approved" modification to their tool. But I don`t see how this is any different than changing a backing plate on a PC or even using the "washer mod" that many people are using on the Rupes already.

[RaskyR1]

I wondered that as well. I didn`t get to do enough to generate a lot of heat. They way Kai explained it to me is that they work in quick burst running at high speed to get quick correction. So I am not sure how much heat would be generated.

I also have noted that Rupes has said these are "not approved" modification to their tool. But I don`t see how this is any different than changing a backing plate on a PC or even using the "washer mod" that many people are using on the Rupes already.

LOL. I saw Rupes commenting on that too and I would agree.

It was also mentioned the J hook Velcro they use is known for generating higher heat temps. I would love to get one and do some testing to see what effect they have with heat, if any.

[pwaug]

So regarding the original question it looks like there are two trains of thought--One,using just the weight of the machine and two, applying pressure as needed based on the condition/hardness of the paint. Naturally a test spot is needed, but those who recommend pressure are we talking as much as one might use on a conventional 8mm throw DA like the Griot`s? Or are we talking something less than that?

[Robert DiTerlizzi]

Light to medium pressure
Again only the test spot can tell you what you want to know


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[pwaug]

Light to medium pressure
Again only the test spot can tell you what you want to know


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Robert--But what about the issue when Long Throw polishers stop spinning if pressure is applied??

[Todd@RUPES]

Robert--But what about the issue when Long Throw polishers stop spinning if pressure is applied??

Polishing power is mostly a result of friction. Friction is mostly a factor of pad movement across the paint`s surface (augmented, of course, by the pad type as well abrasive type/amount). A large-throw machine, like the 21mm stroke that RUPES designed, gets the overwhelming amount of it`s movement (thus friction) from the orbital movement of the tool. I have removed 1500 grit sanding scratches in front of people at SEMA while preventing the pad from rotating at all.

When the pad stalls (stops rotating) as a result of friction at the paint surface (the pad encounters a contour for example that creates a point of drag) then you do run the risk of the foam pad absorbing some of the orbital action - thus you get a double whammy (no rotation / loss of orbital action) which can result in less-than-optimal results.

What to do?

First, use foam pads that are designed for orbital action. Standard rotary pads are too soft and are too likely to absorb the orbital action, like a glob of Jello giggling on itself.
Second, increase pressure. By adding some compression to the foam you ensure that you are transferring the orbital action of the tool more effectively to the paint`s surface. Don`t push down super hard, just firmly apply pressure.

Pad rotation is nice as it certainly increases pad movement as well as help the scratch pattern to cross-hatch resulting in a better finish, but it isn`t necessary - even for heavy correction.