Metal polishing via Porter cable, rotary, and hand

[NotQuiteAPro]

Bought a drag wheel set up that came with a set of nice tires for an excellent deal. The only problem was the wheels has some damage to them. Nothing I didn`t think I could fix though, and, luckily for me metal finishing is my favorite thing to do.



They were really pitted when I bought them











So I began wet sanding, I tried a lot of different techniques since I was free on time and was wanting to see how close to perfect I could get the metal surface.



Now one thing to note ahead of time is that I have NO pneumatic tool, all I have is electric tools. I really could have used one of those 2" orbital pneumatic DA`s they make.



I began with 6inch wet 3M 1000 grit paper, you can see due to the curvature of the wheel that the pressure would load up on the edge and leave heavier sanding marks in this area. This would be a problem for me though out the whole process when trying to sand and compound the barrel until I later discovered a technique that worked for me.



The sanding for the lowest part of the barrel was done by hand.







I used my Rotary, Porter cable, and by hand. Using 1000-3000 grit. The 3M 3000 Grit pad really impressed me, this was my first outing with it and I was very happy with performance and durability (I`m very rough on my stuff). When it came to the compounding and finishing stages I grabbed the Nuvite and the Autogeek LC wool Metalwerks pads. I bought one of each grade (compound, polish, finish) and started working. I ended up putting the wool pads away. They might work great for a large flat surface (like diamond plate) but they just weren`t preforming like I needed them to on the wheels.





So now I was trying to think of a way to try a foam pad, the 15x10 wheels have 5.5 inches of back space so the face is recessed quite a bit when looking straight down (as I was, the wheels were on a bench with me directly above).



The wool and rotary presented me with major holograms and uneven working of the compound. I decided I had to figure out a way to use my DA. The first go around I ended up scratching the wheel because the edge of the backing plate would cut the face while working the barrel and vice verse. I was getting frustrated and called it a night. I knew if I came back to it later I could still achieve the perfect finish, I just needed to be patient. But the 5 inch pads and backing plate were definitely not going to work.



Well that night while laying in bed, it hit me! The next day I took my rotary to DA adapter screw and put it in the PC. Then, I took my rotary extension thingy and screwed it on and then a 3" backing plate.



This is what it looked like:







I used a Lake country Hydro Tech 4 inch polising pad this go around. Let me tell you guys this versus the Wool and rotary was a thousand times better for me.



If you use a set-up like this YOU MUST MAKE SURE TO TIGHTEN IT DOWN EXTRA TIGHT! It WILL come loose on you and either damage what your working on or slap you in the face, I found out the hard way



This pad set up let me work every part of the wheel without causing any damage, so now that I had everything right product and equipment wise, it was now up to me to achieve the kind of shine I wanted :buffing:



Fist was the Nuvite







This stuff took a little while for me to dial in, let me start off by saying... in my opinion... the directions on the jars are off... quite a bit so.



The trick with Nuvite I found is to use hardly any product and work that stuff for ever, I mean once you think its broken down and its looking oily... keep at it...then stop.

This method of very little product and long long long work times worked best for me. I tried several different methods (that`s the good thing about working on your own stuff, you can try stuff like this).



One the surface was "healed" I applied my shine products to amp up and protect the look. For this I chose to give English Custom Polish`s a go (thanks, Grumpy).







First I would wipe it down with the metal restorer. This stuff smells like mineral spirits (and acts like it too, kind of) and did a good job making sure their was nothing left on the surface of the wheel. If you have scratches, IT WILL find them. Think of this as a IPA wipe down on paint. Next I polished it up with the Showman`s Blend. I was a little worried while working it in because I didn`t think it was working much.



According to ECP your supposed to let this polish "dry" before removal. It will flash (pretty obviously too) in about 15-20 seconds if you stop working it, so you`ll know when to remove it. After removal I was let down, I thought ECP was supposed to be "the stuff" so I decided to keep at it.



Last was ECP`s Custom Blend... this stuff... all I can say is WOW. After this stuff flashes and you remove it, you will be shocked. I was at least, these things SHINE! Like paint I know most of it is finish and a little bit of product, but the other polish I normally use on things other than wheels didn`t make them look that good, I tried one to rule out "buyers eyes".



My only grip is that I hated the bottles, I mean truly... I detest them... they leak and waste product.















Anyways guys, this is my story and I am sticking too it.



There were hardly any reviews for these product on here that I could find when researching this stuff, so I figured I would review them and answer anyone`s questions about this stuff.



Thanks for looking.

[Ron Ketcham]

You are welcome! However, if you would have just followed the English polishing procedure, you would have found that you could have cut the time in half and still have the same results.

Just a suggestion.

[NotQuiteAPro]

Can you elaborate on this a little because I did read the instructions and I was curious as to which steps you think would have been eliminated or shortened

[Ron Ketcham]

Go back and read their instructions. Since you don`t have an air compressor that is at least 125 PSI and CFM of 13, you have to use electric tools.

They can not generate the RPM that is required for what it takes for real and quick, metal polishing.

So, you have to work with less RPM.

That takes a bit longer and more patience.

Most professional metal polishes require such RPM, however, there are ways around that.

Felt or cotton sewn pads or cones, are one way, not yarn pads.(On occassion, I use 4 ply yarn cutting pads for the first, "remove the crap" process.)

A "right angle" drill, like Harbor Frieght sells for a reasonable price, if very handy for doing wheels and such, due to the ability to move down into the angles of a wheel, manifolds, etc.

And then, consider a "series" of sanding papers.

What is the use of "sanding" with papers actually accomplish?

After all, the "papers" are abrading/removing some of the metal surface, and as they move to finer and finer grits are actually working just like a metal polish, grit and this is the key for both.

While I have English metal liquid polish (buy all my "stick" rouges from them), I often move to Mother`s Power Metal Polish for the next to last step, and their "foam metal polish ball", or a soft sewn cotton pad. (once again, good old Harbor Frieght has some decent, not great, but decent such products.

Last step is the "tripola" jewel`s rouge, if I find necessay to get that final "pop"!, with a soft cotton, sewn wheel or cone.

[NotQuiteAPro]

I don`t understand Ron that is basically exactly what I did...



Aside from a cone buff with a right angle drill, that is the only think I see different.



When I use the sewn wheels like your talking about, I can`t get the surface as nice as I could with the foam pad and the nuvite.



They are essentially the same thing, just the Nuvite is more "creamy" so it cam be spread and worked easier with the pad. I just let the abrasives

due the work with just the weight of the Porter Cable. Versus using the compound on a wheel.



I will admit that I was wishing I had a loose sewn cotton wheel for the curves but I was happy with the way they came out.



I know ECP claims their stick compounds are better than others, I have heard alot of great this about the stuff Caswell Plating sells

as well. I am about to take the plunge and buy a series of wheels for the bench polisher.

[Ron Ketcham]

A, there are only aprox 4 manufactuers of "rouges" still operating in the USA.

B. they sell the materials to "brand manufacturers" to remarket under their brand name.

C. If what you are doing works for you and you are happy, just keep doing it.

and, the wheels look great!