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  1. #1
    Keeper of the beautiful Jean-Claude's Avatar
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    Many may know this, but I will offer it up for those who may not.



    Some time ago I realized that taping off the edge of the paint, where it meets the window trim bits would not be sufficient. Not because of sloppy machine work and running it all over the trim, but rather, because dust was costing me time. I was having to clean out those window trim bits on the lower portion where it collected dust like an old arcade machine`s top. If you`re currently having to spend a substantial amount of time cleaning dust from those areas, start battling it with tape. Tape off the area that meets the paint then take another piece and slope it from the glass towards the bottom of the trim, overlapping the tape that was first placed. Now, at most the dust will barely be there and most will slide down before collecting. The same trick can be used on the front trim bit between the hood and front windshield. Clean up will a breeze at the cost of about 2 extra minutes and .35 of tape.
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  2. #2

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    Yup that`s what we do. Good tip J.C.

  3. #3

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    Do you guys also tape a little bit of the paint where it meets the trim pieces? I find that if I do it precisely on the trim line, the buffer will sometimes sneak in some polish up there.



    Are there any tricks/tips that you veterans can share? There must be some good ones out there. Methodology, process, etc.



    Thanks

  4. #4
    Keeper of the beautiful Jean-Claude's Avatar
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    Yes. There is a fine line between where you are keeping polish from building up in that crack and are moving into the area the pad will correct. It`s one of those things you just feel out. Great point to bring up though.



    Now that you ask. I`ve trained a number of people how to tape off a body prior to correction and they all struggled with taping around corners. If you struggle with it, make the edge that meets the paint the focal point. Allow the tape to lay/fold/ugly-up on the edge that doesn`t meet the paint all it wants. Hit the important edge and then just push the rest over once the whole run is done.



    Don`t work against yourself. If you`re good at taping from left to right, keep that theme throughout the prep stage. I always tape holding the roll in my right hand.



    If you`re taping down trim that runs the length of the car, make a break in the tape run at the doors. If you need to open a door, that will allow you to do so without tearing up your work or having to retape.



    Keep as many different sizes of tape on hand that you can. I like to have the whole spectrum of sizes 3m offers as well as that .25" green body shop tape. That narrow green tape is perfect for roof rack strips and the rubber bit that surrounds a lot of sunroofs.



    Quote Originally Posted by peacemaker
    Do you guys also tape a little bit of the paint where it meets the trim pieces? I find that if I do it precisely on the trim line, the buffer will sometimes sneak in some polish up there.



    Are there any tricks/tips that you veterans can share? There must be some good ones out there. Methodology, process, etc.



    Thanks
    Detailed Designs Auto Spa
    Professional Car Detailing Atlanta
    Authorized Modesta Installer
    Authorized CQuartz Finest Installer
    Paint Protection Film and Clear Bra Installation

  5. #5

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    i started taping as soon as i started working with m105.

  6. #6
    Forza Auto Salon David Fermani's Avatar
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    Nice thread JC! I totally get what you`re saying and it makes 100% sense.



    If possble, it would be great to add pics (edit your original post) showing both ways of taping for the folks who are more visual.
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