Rupes LHR 21ES Random Orbital Polisher - Features & Benefits

**LilJayV10** · 02-23-2013, 03:18 AM

Originally Posted by JuneBug

What about the Cyclo? It`s got a long stoke and the limiting factor (IMHO) is that no one makes a 4" MF pad........WHY? I have a white Suburban coming in this weekend and the Cyclo with orange pads using a mix of M101 (BIG THANKS to Mike Napoli) and D300. I`m using this combo over my PC`s with MF and my rotary cause this beast is big, but just needs a good 1 step. I figure I`m covering 8" or more with each pass, plus my hands just can`t take the vibes from the PC for the amount of time required to do this thing.

I am interested in your new machine, hope to see some vids on YouTube about it.

Originally Posted by JuneBug

I think it needs to be 4" to work.

Chemical Guys says their MF pads will work on the Cyclo. I don`t have any experience with them. I was on their site and saw the pads and remembered someone was asking about them earlier.

Microfiber Pads, micorfiber polishing, buffing, polishing, detailing car care OPTICAL SELECT BUFFING + POLISH PADS

J

**Accumulator** · 02-23-2013, 02:11 PM

Originally Posted by LilJayV10

Chemical Guys says their MF pads will work on the Cyclo..

Looking at that link, they say their *5.5"* pads will work on the Cyclo. I`d bet against that; the Cyclo needs 4" pads.

Smaller ones like the 3.5" might work, but you`ll lose the majority of whatever the "overlapping pad paths" bring to the table.

The larger ones like the 5.5" simply won`t work properly as even (properly sized) 4" pads have to be aligned just right lest they bump into each other too much (that "overlap" thing again).

**pwaug** · 02-23-2013, 05:00 PM

Optimum has 4.25" MF pads, but would that be too much over hang (1/8 inch)?

**Accumulator** · 02-24-2013, 02:00 PM

Originally Posted by pwaug

Optimum has 4.25" MF pads, but would that be too much over hang (1/8 inch)?

Cyclo newbies have posted concerns about the way 4" pads bump into each other! Getting any pads centered just right (assuming you`re not using the Edge system, which does work great on the Cyclo) is a bit of a chore. So I`m leaning towards "probably not a great idea".

Guess we won`t know until somebody tries, but I`m so :think: about it that I probably will *not* be that guy. And hey, I`d sure love to get the expected level of correction out of my Cyclos!

So maybe somebody will try it, it`ll work great, and my concerns will be proven unfounded. That`d be swell by me

**sulla** · 02-27-2013, 08:30 AM

Originally Posted by Kevin Brown

I know what Marco meant, as I`ve had off-line discussions and debates to quite a degree.

Marco believes that by freeing up backing plate rotation, there`s a chance that the backing plate will spin unabated, ramping up rotation to an un-stabilizing and potentially damaging or dangerous level. The damage or danger occurs if the machine is throttled up prior to placing it in contact with the paint surface.

Although nobody I`ve ever met starts the machine prior to setting against the paint, this was apparently a concern (for other parts of the world).

What do you suppose would happen if you decided to place the still-running machine against a painted panel? Would the backing plate and pad stall, or start to rotate?

It depends. If the pad was placed in LIGHT contact with the panel... AND there was enough drag created by the pad as it contacted the panel, then rotation would slow. As long as the bearing wasn`t loaded to a higher degree, internal bearing friction would remain very low (so there would be very little interaction or contact between the internal bearing, and bearing race). We still have to realize that there`s some fluid dynamics present, so the bearing`s lubricating fluid could affect rotation (increasing it).

What if you placed un excessive amount of pressure against the machine in hopes of squashing the pad and loading the bearing?

At some point, backing plate rotation would stall. But, if you continued to add pressure AND the machine`s motor did not bog, THEN you would see the backing plate ramp up its speed, at least until the bearing`s internal friction became too high (at which point the bearing would become inefficient, and would slow or fail).

Where does this lead? No seriously.. I`m lost now.

Oh yeah!

If the goal was to scrub excessive backing plate rotation during free-spin in a free-air situation, I doubt the premise was a good one. I think the goal was to scrub backing rotation while the plate was under load, during use. After all, it is a fact that when the LHR 21ES is used at high speed, it can become unstable.. If the machine is tilted, or the pad encounters some sort of bulge or flared section of a panel, the machine`s large offset can cause the pad to grab and steer the machine onto its side. Although this instability is not a big or notable issue when using thin or pliable pads, it certainly becomes an issue when using a tall or inflexible pad (such as the Rupes blue pad, or a closed cell dense foam cutting pad).

Oh my gosh, it`s late and I`m punchy. I hope at least some of this makes sense.

Good luck deciphering it all!

KB, thanks for your thought on this... I`m actually one of those who would never stop my rotary between sections. I would turn it down to speed 1,buff residue, apply polish to paint and then buff again.

I tried to remove the bp and then let the rupes spin at speed 6 and it`s indeed rotating violently the vibration is so unbearable, with the bp polishing in the air no problem with vibration or such. So yes I can see how the bp tucked agains the housing (whatever it`s called) is a way to give some control to the machine. I`m still at lost deciphering what you are trying to say here.. Can you opine on whether it safe to continue using the rupes with the washer mod the way I use my rotary ? Thanks.

**Kevin Brown** · 02-27-2013, 03:03 PM