light defects/scratches

[Accumulator]

so the compound would be a little more aggressive than the polish which is more gentle? So it would be OK to just head straight for the polish, since in this case the compound would not really be necessary?

Yes, you`re understanding it correctly.



BUT....get the compound too because I`m pretty sure you`ll need it, at least in places.

... Any clay bar will do? I heard the same company has the patent for them anyway...

There can be surprising differences when you`re using them, and some of those surprises can be unpleasant (voice of experience). For OTC clay I`d get Griot`s (check Advance Auto), or Mothers, or (maybe the best choice) Clay Magic Blue. I do best with a dedicated clay lube, but others are happy with shampoo mix.

I wash using a meguiars microfiber wash mitt, meguiars gold class, and dry with the meguiars supreme microfiber cloths. I use two buckets, one for rinsing the mitt and the other for clean water. Car looks great but I see slight swirls in direct sunlight, I guess thats not supposed to happen and hoping the polish and wax will diminish that...

I could (some will say I *should*) write a book on how to wash! No, the process shouldn`t mar the paint, but that`s "ideally, in theory" and in practice most people do mar it up. The polish should diminish this marring and the wax will a) hide it a little (very little) and more importantly b) keep contaminants from adhering so firmly which will allow gentle wash techniques to clean `em off.



Here`s the big Q- How much do you care?

I want to add something else rather than making a whole new thread. I live in a condo with a detached garage and for now I don`t have access to water to wash here, so I wash at another location where I can use a hose at my convenience. However it`s a 10-15minute drive back home to my garage, and thats where I`d like to begin polishing and waxing. I know in that time period the car will accumulate light dust and was wondering if a quick detailer (meguiars) will help clean that off so I can proceed to polish on clean paint?

That makes it even tougher. I`d get some ONR and quickly QD (more like "rewash") the car with that when you get home.

[Howard4Lakers]

Yes, you`re understanding it correctly.



BUT....get the compound too because I`m pretty sure you`ll need it, at least in places.











There can be surprising differences when you`re using them, and some of those surprises can be unpleasant (voice of experience). For OTC clay I`d get Griot`s (check Advance Auto), or Mothers, or (maybe the best choice) Clay Magic Blue. I do best with a dedicated clay lube, but others are happy with shampoo mix.









I could (some will say I *should*) write a book on how to wash! No, the process shouldn`t mar the paint, but that`s "ideally, in theory" and in practice most people do mar it up. The polish should diminish this marring and the wax will a) hide it a little (very little) and more importantly b) keep contaminants from adhering so firmly which will allow gentle wash techniques to clean `em off.



Here`s the big Q- How much do you care?







That makes it even tougher. I`d get some ONR and quickly QD (more like "rewash") the car with that when you get home.

I care enough, but not to the point where I have to spend alot of money on products. I want to achieve that `wet` and slick look on the paint like these cars:









I found these pics in that entertaining thread a few threads down (lol), pics courtesy of DaGonz



so I`ll use compound on areas that are more prone to getting dirty like the lower half of the car basically.



i`ll wash, clay bar while the soap is on the car? Or use a detailer on top of the soap and clay for better glide?



go home, use ONR, then compound, polish, wax. How long do you wait between applying compound, polish, and wax?

[Accumulator]

I care enough, but not to the point where I have to spend alot of money on products. I want to achieve that `wet` and slick look on the paint like these cars...

Well, to get that level of results you`ll need a polisher and, more imprtantly, a fair amount of time, effort, and *experience*.



And the biggest challenge will be keeping it that nice for more than a few weeks. I`m not kidding about how critical the wash regimen is; if you mar the paint during a wash all that polishing/etc. is for naught.

so I`ll use compound on areas that are more prone to getting dirty like the lower half of the car basically.

No. The compound is for "sanding" the paint smooth where it has significant marring (scratches/etc.). I wouldn`t think of it as being much related to how dirty a given area gets. What areas usually need compound IMO?...the hood, because people always care how it looks; around the door handles because those areas get scratched up; the trunk lid if somebody`s touching it (that`s a huge :nono ) when they close it; the front bumpercover, which gets etched from bugs/etc.

i`ll wash, clay bar while the soap is on the car? Or use a detailer on top of the soap and clay for better glide?

Are you sure you want to clay-while-washing? Many people do it, but it makes the whole thing a bit trickier as you can`t let anything dry on the paint while you`re spending time on whatever section you`r claying.



Generally, just follow the instructions that come with the clay, and/or do some research to see how others are doing it.



If you don`t do it correctly, the clay will pick up abrasive contamination, hence becoming sandpaper, and will then mar up the paint.

go home, use ONR, then compound, polish, wax. How long do you wait between applying compound, polish, and wax?

I think something`s unclear here... :think: ... the compound and polish are simply "liquid sandpaper" products that smooth/level the paint. Once you buff away their residue there`s nothing left so there`s no need to wait between those processes.



Be sure to do a "test spot", a representative area that you can work on easily and clearly observe/evaluate. I`d probably pick a spot on the trunk lid. Use the compound, then the polish, maybe even the wax, on that one spot and inspect it *thoroughly* to make sure that your process is working OK. If something`s amiss, you don`t want to do the whole car before you find out. Note that the lighting under which you work, and more importantly under which you *inspect* is utterly crucial; you have to see what`s going on so you can tell if all is well.

[Howard4Lakers]

Well, to get that level of results you`ll need a polisher and, more imprtantly, a fair amount of time, effort, and *experience*.



And the biggest challenge will be keeping it that nice for more than a few weeks. I`m not kidding about how critical the wash regimen is; if you mar the paint during a wash all that polishing/etc. is for naught.









No. The compound is for "sanding" the paint smooth where it has significant marring (scratches/etc.). I wouldn`t think of it as being much related to how dirty a given area gets. What areas usually need compound IMO?...the hood, because people always care how it looks; around the door handles because those areas get scratched up; the trunk lid if somebody`s touching it (that`s a huge :nono ) when they close it; the front bumpercover, which gets etched from bugs/etc.







Are you sure you want to clay-while-washing? Many people do it, but it makes the whole thing a bit trickier as you can`t let anything dry on the paint while you`re spending time on whatever section you`r claying.



Generally, just follow the instructions that come with the clay, and/or do some research to see how others are doing it.



If you don`t do it correctly, the clay will pick up abrasive contamination, hence becoming sandpaper, and will then mar up the paint.







I think something`s unclear here... :think: ... the compound and polish are simply "liquid sandpaper" products that smooth/level the paint. Once you buff away their residue there`s nothing left so there`s no need to wait between those processes.



Be sure to do a "test spot", a representative area that you can work on easily and clearly observe/evaluate. I`d probably pick a spot on the trunk lid. Use the compound, then the polish, maybe even the wax, on that one spot and inspect it *thoroughly* to make sure that your process is working OK. If something`s amiss, you don`t want to do the whole car before you find out. Note that the lighting under which you work, and more importantly under which you *inspect* is utterly crucial; you have to see what`s going on so you can tell if all is well.

thanks for clearing things up lol. I just want to be equipped with the proper knowledge before i do anything, so I don`t waste my time. I`ve youtubed plenty techniques on how to use a polisher, how to apply the wax properly. So I don`t want to make it all go to waste.



Yeah I`ll definitely look up how to clay, usually I see people do it using a detailer.



Besides that, does the entire step by step procedure look fine to you, except for the claying while washing?

Well, to get that level of results you`ll need a polisher and, more imprtantly, a fair amount of time, effort, and *experience*.



And the biggest challenge will be keeping it that nice for more than a few weeks. I`m not kidding about how critical the wash regimen is; if you mar the paint during a wash all that polishing/etc. is for naught.

I will have the time, put in the effort and gain experience. Guess I only need a polisher then.



I`m guessing this will take the whole day? Leaving in the midst of it, lets say after polishing, and waxing the next day wouldn`t be beneficial would it?

[Accumulator]

thanks for clearing things up lol. I just want to be equipped with the proper knowledge before i do anything, so I don`t waste my time....

Good plan :xyxthumbs



Yeah, I think you have the right idea:

-Wash

-Clay

-Test Spot with Compound, then Polish, then Wax

-Inspect Test Spot in demanding lighting

-Adjust process as needed until OK

-Do rest of vehicle

I will have the time, put in the effort and gain experience. Guess I only need a polisher then.

I`d get the Griot`s Garage 6" Random Orbital with the long cord option.

I`m guessing this will take the whole day? Leaving in the midst of it, lets say after polishing, and waxing the next day wouldn`t be beneficial would it?

It can take *several* days, don`t underestimate how long! If you take breaks, ONR again to get any dirt off before you resume.



You might want to do it section-by-section, doing say....one or two panels at a time after each of a series of "regular washes". Like, Wash the car, but only clay the trunk lid, then do the test spot on the trunk lid (Compound, Polish, and Wax). Keep an eye on it until the next wash to see if you really did OK. Then after the next wash either redo/fix the trunklid if it`s not quite right, or repeat the process on another panel or two. Takes a while, but this way the vehicle won`t end up 1/3-done in an awkward way (like...compounded but not polished/waxed) and IMO you won`t be tempted to rush anything due to running out of time. When the whole thing`s finally done, just give it all another coat of wax to "even everything out".

[pwaug]

I`d get the Griot`s Garage 6" Random Orbital with the long cord option.

Griots has a new version of their polisher with some minor changes, but no change to the motor etc that make the current model powerful. You should be able to get one with the short cord (then add a 12` 16 guage[recommended by Griots], 2 way extension from HD and permanently tape it to the polisher) for anywhere from $80-100. Watch Amazon Gold Box Deals, Bjs.com and AG.

[marinesoup]

Anyone used or heard anything good about the Griots machine polish line 1-4?
Are they any good?
I have minor swirls and a few scratches on the back hatch of my Kia Soul ( black )


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[Accumulator]

marinesoup- Let me qualify this by saying the following:

I haven`t tried the GG MPs for a while, and they might have been reformulated. I`ve never used MP4, which, IIRC, is a mix of MP3 and a LSP. My opinions are based on my use of MP1, MP2, and MP3, including IIRC, versions 1.0 through 3.0. So maybe things are different now (never saw any notice of a reformulation though), and/or maybe MP4 is what you`re looking for.

All that said, I *do not* like these products. Not all that effective nor user-friendly. IMO you`d be *MUCH* better off buying a bottle of HD Polish.

[marinesoup]

Thx Accumulator, I have MP2 and MP4 here already. I`ll try the MP4 on the swirls and and spiders maybe with an orange pad and see what the results are.
I`ve been reading a lot about HD but is it good for minor scratches also?


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[Accumulator]

marinesoup- Though I sure haven`t done a proper comparison, I`d expect the HD Polish (with the right pad) to be along the lines of MP2, only finishing out at least as well as MP3. The HD Polish *is* abrasive enough to handle some minor correction, at least on most paints (i.e., maybe not so much on really hard ones).

What with its (?presumed?) concealing ability, the MP4 just might give you what you`re after. IF not, try the MP2 first and follow up with the MP4.

One time I *did* really appreciate MP3 was on a fresh repaint that was just too soft for anything else to finish out OK on. (Once it cured for a few months it got significantly harder.)

[marinesoup]

Thanks for your insight.
I`ll still start with MP4 to see what results I get, then move back to MP2 if I see no noticeable change.
I at least have to give them a try for now. By the sounds of it I don`t think I need to worry too much about it being too aggressive.



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[Tigerkiger]

One thing I would change about the wash process it the use of a microfiber wash mitt. The goal of a microfiber product is to grab and cling, so when washing why would you ever want to use this. You take the mitt and dunk it in your wash bucket expecting it to release the contaminates but guess what...it didn`t! I strictly use a sheep skin (naturally releases dirt) when washing a vehicle to ensure no micro marring occurs. I`m surprised at how many people overlook one vital process. Can you clay when you wash the car? Yes, but make sure the car is completely clean if if you choose to clay after washed and still wet I would recommend using a clay mitt. It is just that, a rubberized mitt that acts a clay and will save you a massive amount of work and time, while using the wash soap as a lubricant. As for the compound and polish process, test a low out of sight spot such as the passengers side lower rear bumper. If something goes wrong, no one will look here. Always start least aggressive and work your way up as needed. Start with a polish and if that does not correct the area the step up with either a more aggressive polish or to a compound. Try to stay clear of products that are called "swirl removers," since most are silicone or acrylic based products that act as fillers. In this case you are masking and not correcting the affected area. Hope that helps some and I would definitely go for a DA.

[marinesoup]

Tigerkiger
I haven`t tried the mitt but do clay with CB clay lube. I`d like to try the mitt especially if it saves time. I can`t spend too much time bent over anymore.
I use the 2 bucket method with grit guards and haven`t had a problem so far as I thoroughly rinse the MF pad after doing each section.
I have the 7424.
Thanks for sharing!



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[Accumulator]

marinesoup- I`m absolutely confident that the MP4 won`t be too aggressive and confidence is also high that the MP2 won`t be too harsh either. FAR more likely that you`ll wish the MP2 had more cut.

[marinesoup]

Well we finally had good enough weather up here to get out the 7424.
I tried the Griots MP 2 with a yellow pad and I have to say that the product is garbage IMO! Not only did it not remove swirl marks and tiny surface scratches, it didn`t even remove spider marks!
I was so disappointed in this product and what it claims to do do. Also trying to remove the product was a nightmare requiring a lot of work.
I did the roof first to see how it performed and then went to the hood. After MP2 I went on to MP4 on the hood and then BF diamond polish finishing with Pete`s 54.
Nice and shiny in the shade but an embarrassment in the sun for all the work I put into it. (The car was washed and clayed before also).
I need a good product that is proven to remove swirl marks and tiny scratches and is easy to remove product after.
Now I know why you don`t use Griots MP anymore. I`m guessing same formula.



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