The Rupes BIGFOOT LHR 21E is heading to the USA!!!

[Legacy]

So the custom housing is a regular option now? Guess I`ll have to bribe Kevin into selling me one to retrofit my G110v2, which I`m pretty sure is already the latest version.

Isn`t that extension for the Rupes?

[RaskyR1]

So the custom housing is a regular option now? Guess I`ll have to bribe Kevin into selling me one to retrofit my G110v2, which I`m pretty sure is already the latest version.

I`m not sure it`s "official" yet, but when I talked to Kevin he did say it was something he`d like to offer. Not sure what the added cost will be and/or if they will be laser etched like the one in the pic...anything is available for the right price though and I`m sure he`d etch "Worlds Best Detailer" on it if you wanted him too!

[drew935]

Isn`t that extension for the Rupes?

No, it isn`t. This is a custom piece that Kevin had made from scratch. It looks awesome compared to the prototype!

[gmblack3]

Thanks Kevin!

[Kevin Brown]

Kevin, Bravo on bringing this in to the US! And Bravo on the price point relatively speaking! If I needed another machine right now I would be in! As it is its only a matter of time before I call you but it will likely be awhile. I do have one question. Its insignificant to me as I clean my pad so often regardless but you mentioned the pad staying cleaner longer. I don`t follow.. if a pad is cutting paint it is going to be just as clogged over the course of the amount of paint it cuts regardless of machine. It may cut faster or slower but if two identical pads are used on an identical sized section with identical polishes and are used to cut identical amounts of paint they will both contain identical amounts of clear coat and buildup. Do I make sense or am I missing something?

"Keep pads cleaner (particularly foam pads), as they do not have an ability to become tied or knotted or clumped together the way fibrous pads might (wool, microfinger, microfiber, felt, etc.)"



No, you make sense... I bullet-pointed a lot of things.



Imagine that you are hand sanding a painted panel using a sheet of sandpaper. If you were to only marginally move the hand pad back and forth 1-inch forward and backward, any paint that was scrubbed from the surface would for the most part linger under the paper, stuck between it and the paint surface. Eventually,the paper would clog with abraded paint residue, ceasing to sanding cleanly or efficiently. Certainly, the use of water to help rinse paint residue away would keep the surface and sandpaper mostly debris-free. If instead you went ahead and moved the hand pad back and forth 1-foot (using the same amount of strokes in the same amount of time), the abraded paint residue would be more apt to clear the area between the sandpaper and paint surface. Lots of motion means there`s a better chance that any residue stuck on or stuck under the sandpaper will clear away.



A similar thing happens with large stroke machines when we buff paint using a foam pad and compound. Not only that, but with a larger stroke (all other things being equal) comes an increase in centripetal force (the force that causes the backing plate to rotate). The increase in stroke size and backing plate rotation makes it more difficult for debris to remain on the surface of the foam pad. This is particularly true when we`re comparing residue build-up on foam pads versus pads that use strings (wool, microfiber, microfingers, cotton, etc.) With string-type pads, the individual string can trap the residue, the residue can clump the strings together, the string effectively become thicker, and voila!- We`re seeing scour marks across the paint surface.



With foam, there`s only so much that can be loaded into the pores immediately below the face of the pad or on top of the face structure of the pad. Sure, any particular foam pad might hold onto compound and residue more easily than another pad, but eventually, the thick layer of debris is going to break away from the foam, regardless its design. The debris will either be scuttled away via the pad`s edge (effectively squeegeeing aside), or it will dust away, or it will be wiped away.



It`s why many of us using the smaller Rupes LHR75 3" Air-Powered Mini Random Orbital just cannot believe that the paint surface is not hazed or scoured after we`ve polished using a dinky pad @ 8,000-10,000 RPM. It is a shocker, but what a difference there is between using it compared to a Griot`s 3" machine or a Metabo SXE400.

Feedback CEE DOG?



You may have missed this much thought about and fairly time-consuming detailed response.

[IC3DT3]

Is there a 6" pneumatic version of the Bigfoot? Or a comparable big stroke pneumatic polisher. I`m looking to set up a high volume shop and really want to stick to aid powered tools.



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[C. Charles Hahn]

Is there a 6" pneumatic version of the Bigfoot? Or a comparable big stroke pneumatic polisher. I`m looking to set up a high volume shop and really want to stick to aid powered tools.



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

The main issue you`d run into there is that in order for an air powered system to be able to run a large-stroke DA with a 6" pad and sustain usable rotation under load, it would take a MASSIVE volume of air. High volume compressors (rotary screw usually) are available, but they`re expensive and even still you might not be able to use more than one polisher at a time.

[Barry Theal]

Is there a 6" pneumatic version of the Bigfoot? Or a comparable big stroke pneumatic polisher. I`m looking to set up a high volume shop and really want to stick to aid powered tools.



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

If your looking to go pnuematic. I would buy a pnuematic polisher and get the dynabrade attachment. It will be about as close as your gonna get.

[IC3DT3]

If your looking to go pnuematic. I would buy a pnuematic polisher and get the dynabrade attachment. It will be about as close as your gonna get.

Hmm, seems like a really bulky solution. I was hoping to find a good pneumatic polisher in the formfactor of a Mirka Bulldog or at least similar to a PCXP. Perhaps the Dynabrade 10786? 19mm stroke...



Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[CEE DOG]

Feedback CEE DOG?



You may have missed this much thought about and fairly time-consuming detailed response.

ROFL!! Sorry Kevin! I appreciate the response. I did miss that and will read through it a couple more times and reply shortly.

I didn`t miss your other response to the majority of my questions earlier though! Very well thought and appreciated. I have to say there just wasn`t much for me to add to a reply, lol

[CEE DOG]

Last I experienced Kevin Brown from Buffdaddy is the most reputable vendor I have conducted business with. No one and I repeat no one has shared more knowledge about polishing paint then Kevin. Kevin has already figured out how to turn the rupes bigfoot into a better performing machine, nobody including those at the walmart of auto detailing supplies is going to put the time and effort into providing you with a better and more efficient polishing experience.



Those that know will use Kevin and those that don`t will keep on the path they choose.

Bravo!!! :clap: very well stated.... "walgmart" or a class act business that knows and cares about what they sell you.... The choice is yours

[autoconcierge]

ROFL!! Sorry Kevin! I appreciate the response. I did miss that and will read through it a couple more times and reply shortly.

I didn`t miss your other response to the majority of my questions earlier though! Very well thought and appreciated. I have to say there just wasn`t much for me to add to a reply, lol

Kevin`s 40 paragraph retort was liken to "Shock & Awe"........................ "Overwatch goin hot" ...................boom................

[CEE DOG]

"Keep pads cleaner (particularly foam pads), as they do not have an ability to become tied or knotted or clumped together the way fibrous pads might (wool, microfinger, microfiber, felt, etc.)"



No, you make sense... I bullet-pointed a lot of things.







Imagine that you are hand sanding a painted panel using a sheet of sandpaper. If you were to only marginally move the hand pad back and forth 1-inch forward and backward, any paint that was scrubbed from the surface would for the most part linger under the paper, stuck between it and the paint surface. Eventually,the paper would clog with abraded paint residue, ceasing to sanding cleanly or efficiently. Certainly, the use of water to help rinse paint residue away would keep the surface and sandpaper mostly debris-free. If instead you went ahead and moved the hand pad back and forth 1-foot (using the same amount of strokes in the same amount of time), the abraded paint residue would be more apt to clear the area between the sandpaper and paint surface. Lots of motion means there`s a better chance that any residue stuck on or stuck under the sandpaper will clear away.



A similar thing happens with large stroke machines when we buff paint using a foam pad and compound. Not only that, but with a larger stroke (all other things being equal) comes an increase in centripetal force (the force that causes the backing plate to rotate). The increase in stroke size and backing plate rotation makes it more difficult for debris to remain on the surface of the foam pad. This is particularly true when we`re comparing residue build-up on foam pads versus pads that use strings (wool, microfiber, microfingers, cotton, etc.) With string-type pads, the individual string can trap the residue, the residue can clump the strings together, the string effectively become thicker, and voila!- We`re seeing scour marks across the paint surface.



With foam, there`s only so much that can be loaded into the pores immediately below the face of the pad or on top of the face structure of the pad. Sure, any particular foam pad might hold onto compound and residue more easily than another pad, but eventually, the thick layer of debris is going to break away from the foam, regardless its design. The debris will either be scuttled away via the pad`s edge (effectively squeegeeing aside), or it will dust away, or it will be wiped away.



It`s why many of us using the smaller Rupes LHR75 3" Air-Powered Mini Random Orbital just cannot believe that the paint surface is not hazed or scoured after we`ve polished using a dinky pad @ 8,000-10,000 RPM. It is a shocker, but what a difference there is between using it compared to a Griot`s 3" machine or a Metabo SXE400.

Kevin, that does make a lot of sense and I appreciate the thorough explanation that convinces me about 40% and I`ll take your word on it about another 60%.



You see my vision of what I was thinking about is during the finishing polish (rather than compounding) when I use 85RD I dont see much dusting therefore I don`t really imagine the particles of clear coat are going anywhere except into the pad until I release them with a brush after my section is complete. The edge gradually capturing them.... Hmmmm I hadn`t considered that but don`t think it accounts for much clear coat capture.



You focused on compounding where I see what you are saying a lot more on that stage (since so much clear is being cut and appears to also be released via dust) especially with something like M105 which I am grateful for when fast cut is needed :dance: however a compound or compound/polish that doesn`t dust as much like Fixer I think most of the clear is still sticking to the pad until you release it via brush in which case the pad would still have the same amount of residue regardless.



So is the question about the polish that is used and is there proof in the % of paint particles are in the dusting?



Honestly I can`t think of much else to say except now I want the "small foot" also! (but I won`t be getting that one) still working on allowing myself to get the rock star)

[Kevin Brown]

...You see my vision of what I was thinking about is during the finishing polish (rather than compounding) when I use 85RD I dont see much dusting therefore I don`t really imagine the particles of clear coat are going anywhere except into the pad until I release them with a brush after my section is complete.

Understood.

...The edge gradually capturing them.... Hmmmm I hadn`t considered that but don`t think it accounts for much clear coat capture.

Squeegee effect.

...You focused on compounding where I see what you are saying a lot more on that stage (since so much clear is being cut and appears to also be released via dust)...

You`ve really boxed yourself in to the "dusting" idea. Of course you`re not going to see dust if the buffing liquid, paint residue, & contaminants are all bound together and have either become stuffed into the pad`s structure, is stuck to the pad, or has rolled off and away from the pad. Maybe you should think of all the loose stuff that was either used to buff the paint (compound & pad remnants), or that has been removed while buffing the paint (oxidized paint, debris-free paint, environmental contaminants physically attached to the paint)... as debris.

...I think most of the clear is still sticking to the pad until you release it via brush in which case the pad would still have the same amount of residue regardless.

How ever your release the debris is up to you. Brushing I believe is nearly the least effective.

...So is the question about the polish that is used and is there proof in the % of paint particles are in the dusting?

I`m going to need a slide ruler or trigonometry calculator to figure out what you meant by this. Are you asking me to prove the percentage of clear coat that might be residing on dusted-away abrasive particles, or perhaps how much of the powdery "dust" that we might be able to see is actually clear paint?



I guess what I am wondering is... where are you going with all of this?! :fish2:

And when tires wear out, where does all the rubber go?



Someday when we finally meet, I`d like to work side-by-side with you.

Perhaps then we`ll BOTH get a better idea of what we`re referencing as our "experience-source".





Let me start this over: "The RuPes BigFOoT is HeaDed to the USA..."

[Kevin Brown]

Kevin`s 40 paragraph retort was liken to "Shock & Awe"........................ "Overwatch goin hot" ...................boom................

Bob, nobody uses "the terminology" the way you do.

A seasoned wordsmith with the subtlety of an anvil and sledgehammer.



I am cracking up right now! "...................boom................" 1: