Harbor Freight Rotary buffer

[VenzaDetailer07]

Hello Everyone! I have been reading alot of threads on this forum and it has some really great info! Glad I could be part of this. Now...to the point....I went to harbor freight a few week back and bought the following electronic rotary polisher (this is the link):

7" Electronic Polisher

Now, I will admit I am a complete newbie with polishing and with that said...I did purchase the Porter Cable DA polisher but one of the biggest things I hate about it is the vibration. That was the reason I picked a cheap rotary buffer from HF to see how it is. I bought a Meguiars W64 backing plate for it and was using Meguiars W8006 pads to polish my father`s car. Don`t worry...my father doesn`t really care what happens to the car. One of the things I noticed about the machine is that it does bog down even when applying even little pressure. I really don`t want to go past 2000 RPM to get the proper RPM when the machine is on the car because I really don`t want to burn the paint so my question to everybody is has anybody used this rotary buffer with success like a Makita or a Dewalt? And if so, what type of pads and backing plates do you guys use? Any tips on RPMs for this rotary buffer? Finally, would I have better success with a Makita or Dewalt? I really like the feeling of a rotary buffer because of less vibration. It was a little tough to control it at first but I quickly learned that slightly tilting the pad will help move the buffer in the direction you want it to. Its my first post...so go easy on me!

[Dan]

That`s the biggest downfall of the HF machine, it bogs down and you have to adjust speed based on load

[Ron Ketcham]

1. Turn your speed down when doing a clearcoat or modern finish to 1,000 rpm. (see item 3)

2. No need to apply pressure if you are using the right pad for the needed job-IE, cutting, use a cutting compound and a cutting pad, polishing, use a polishing product with a polishing pad. Foams are good, I usually use a geniune lambs wool pelt pad for polishing and follow that with more polish and a polishing foam pad. Then a quick once over with a dual action to remove any minor swirls.

3. While it is ok to go a bit higher on speed, no more than 1800 is needed, as newer products will "break down the abrasives very quickly" when higher speeds are used and heavy pressure is applied to the buffer. Higher speeds also "heat the paint film and on clearcoats, a SAE study and paper published a few years back found that if the paint surface`s temp exceeds 105F or there about, it thermo stresses (damages) the all important film former/binder of the paint film (IE resin system).

I have a HF buffer as well as Dewalt and a Milwaukee buffers, all variable speed rotaries.

I often go to the HF (it`s going on 4 years old and is used several times a week) when doing small buff jobs.

The Dewalt when doing a compete vehicle and the Milwaukee is basically reserved for gel coat finishes. over large surfaces.

That said, the same applies as pointed out in items 1 thru 3.

Been running rotary buffers for over 55 years and these are the keys to success when using modern buffing products.

And-of course, practice, practice, practice on old junk panels.

A rotary buffer is just a smaller version of a "floor buffer", so a small degree of tilt is what moves it from one direction to another, just do NOT ever go completely on the edge of the pad and apply pressure. That will get you in trouble in a big hurry, if you HAVE to, due to an edge or such, "feather it" lightly, keeping the pressure to a minimum and do not hold it in once place, do several light passes instead.

Grumpy

[VenzaDetailer07]

1. Turn your speed down when doing a clearcoat or modern finish to 1,000 rpm. (see item 3)

2. No need to apply pressure if you are using the right pad for the needed job-IE, cutting, use a cutting compound and a cutting pad, polishing, use a polishing product with a polishing pad. Foams are good, I usually use a geniune lambs wool pelt pad for polishing and follow that with more polish and a polishing foam pad. Then a quick once over with a dual action to remove any minor swirls.

3. While it is ok to go a bit higher on speed, no more than 1800 is needed, as newer products will "break down the abrasives very quickly" when higher speeds are used and heavy pressure is applied to the buffer. Higher speeds also "heat the paint film and on clearcoats, a SAE study and paper published a few years back found that if the paint surface`s temp exceeds 105F or there about, it thermo stresses (damages) the all important film former/binder of the paint film (IE resin system).

I have a HF buffer as well as Dewalt and a Milwaukee buffers, all variable speed rotaries.

I often go to the HF (it`s going on 4 years old and is used several times a week) when doing small buff jobs.

The Dewalt when doing a compete vehicle and the Milwaukee is basically reserved for gel coat finishes. over large surfaces.

That said, the same applies as pointed out in items 1 thru 3.

Been running rotary buffers for over 55 years and these are the keys to success when using modern buffing products.

And-of course, practice, practice, practice on old junk panels.

A rotary buffer is just a smaller version of a "floor buffer", so a small degree of tilt is what moves it from one direction to another, just do NOT ever go completely on the edge of the pad and apply pressure. That will get you in trouble in a big hurry, if you HAVE to, due to an edge or such, "feather it" lightly, keeping the pressure to a minimum and do not hold it in once place, do several light passes instead.

Grumpy

Thank you very much for the advice. The funny thing is that if I turn on the rotary buffer at for example, 1000 rpm in the air...it will run at a 1000 rpm in the air but when I put the buffer down onto my hood, even though there is no pressure applied, the machine bogs down to like roughly 500-700 rpm, maybe even less. I am just judging that based on the sound and what I am seeing. Controlling the buffer seems to be easy but it likes to move around by itself often and I am wondering if it being bogged down has anything to do with this.

[Ron Ketcham]

Nope, all of them will tend to wander about until the operator learns how to handle them.

The handle on the side is just for easy movements and balance, the grip of the main unit is where you actually do the most control. Think "swivel" when moving it from right to left, etc, learning to keep it almost flat to the surface, just a small degree of tilt.

If you think it is dropping RPM`s, set the dial up to 1200 or 1500 and see what it does.

They are not "powerful" buffers like a Dewalt, etc, hence the price point, but they will do most work for the average enthusist.

Just practice, go get an old hood or trunk lid and learn the process.

Grumpy

[C. Charles Hahn]

Nope, all of them will tend to wander about until the operator learns how to handle them.

The handle on the side is just for easy movements and balance, the grip of the main unit is where you actually do the most control

Personally, I have gotten to the point where I don`t even use a handle on my machines save for very rare circumstances. It`s actually easier to just grab the head of the buffer and use the palm of my hand to "guide" the machine by applying 1-2 degrees of tilt in either direction. Using the handle it`s harder for me to fine-adjust the movement since the added leverage tempts a higher degree of tilt which leads to buffer trails.

[VenzaDetailer07]

Nope, all of them will tend to wander about until the operator learns how to handle them.

The handle on the side is just for easy movements and balance, the grip of the main unit is where you actually do the most control. Think "swivel" when moving it from right to left, etc, learning to keep it almost flat to the surface, just a small degree of tilt.

If you think it is dropping RPM`s, set the dial up to 1200 or 1500 and see what it does.

They are not "powerful" buffers like a Dewalt, etc, hence the price point, but they will do most work for the average enthusist.

Just practice, go get an old hood or trunk lid and learn the process.

Grumpy

I actually don`t even use the handle right now. I definitely agree with what you said about the main grip provides the control. I slightly twist my wrists which causes the rotary buffer to tilt a little and that allows me to control the buffer. Its such a great tool IMO. I have my father`s car which he lets me practice on so I am really getting a chance to get a feel for it. I`ll probably keep the HF rotary for now to practice and when I become better at it, I`ll probably will get something better, but one question for you though. If I upgrade my HF rotary to like a Dewalt buffer, would I need to change any of my techniques in handling the buffer?

[VenzaDetailer07]

Personally, I have gotten to the point where I don`t even use a handle on my machines save for very rare circumstances. It`s actually easier to just grab the head of the buffer and use the palm of my hand to "guide" the machine by applying 1-2 degrees of tilt in either direction. Using the handle it`s harder for me to fine-adjust the movement since the added leverage tempts a higher degree of tilt which leads to buffer trails.

What size pads do you use with your buffer? I know alot of people say that the smaller pads are easier to control compared to the larger ones. I am currently using Meguiar`s 6 inch pads and on the forums, most people are using the 5 inch pads. I just want to know if that extra 1 inch can make a difference in controlling the buffer.

[Ron Ketcham]

I use full size pads 90% of the time, some call them 7 inch, some refer to them as 8 inch.

They do throw more torque at the surface, however, in a professional, high volume operation, they are faster and time is money.

Small pads one can get away with the handle not beening used, but with the largers ones, not having that side grip handle can wear one out quickly.

Grumpy

[VenzaDetailer07]

I use full size pads 90% of the time, some call them 7 inch, some refer to them as 8 inch.

They do throw more torque at the surface, however, in a professional, high volume operation, they are faster and time is money.

Small pads one can get away with the handle not beening used, but with the largers ones, not having that side grip handle can wear one out quickly.

Grumpy

Thanks Ron. I really appreciate the advice!

[C. Charles Hahn]

What size pads do you use with your buffer? I know alot of people say that the smaller pads are easier to control compared to the larger ones. I am currently using Meguiar`s 6 inch pads and on the forums, most people are using the 5 inch pads. I just want to know if that extra 1 inch can make a difference in controlling the buffer.

I use mostly 5.5" pads or 3-4" spot pads when using the rotary as a rotary.



The rest of the time I have the Dynabrade DA mounted to the DeWalt and I use either 6.5" or 7" pads with it (Meguiar`s SoftBuff). Still, though, I don`t use the handle with that setup.

[tuscarora dave]

I bought that same rotary from harbor freight for use with cotton buffing wheels for polishing tanks on big trucks etc. I felt that it was a pretty big distraction, trying to adjust the speed with the buttons and found it somewhat hard to find the on off switch while running the machine. I gave it away. I also found that the machine had my hands and forearm cramping up within minutes. IMO it is a very uncomfortable tool to use with too much of a chance to burn paint because you lose focus on your work while trying to adjust the speed. I`ve no doubt that you`d like a Makita or a Dewalt much better just for the ergonomics of them. I commend you on not being afraid to give the rotary a try, as so many people are.

[imported_Quenga]

I went from the HF to the Flex PE-14 and there is a noticeable difference. I actually believe the fact that the HF bogs down can affect how it jumps around. When I was learning on it, I thought it was all me and I got frustrated using it. But once I got the Flex, I did notice a difference on how the polishers move. I`m still not a rotary pro, but the Flex is definitely easier to use.



The handle is mainly preference on 5" pads. 3-4" I think they get in the way, while 7-8", like Ron said, the handle can save you from tiring out. On 5" pads, if I`m in a comfortable position I use the handles. If not, I hold the head of the Flex.

[imported_MCA]

I have a HF drillmaster rotary and have no major complaints. I use it primarily with 5.5-6.5 foam/PWF pads with an Evolve 5" backing plate. Anything bigger and it will bog down noticeably. Count me in the non-handle group as I like to hold the machine either on top of the head or slightly above the main body (depending if the it is a vertical or horizontal surface). I have tried my buddy`s Dewalt 849x and Makita 9227C and both these machines are leagues better than my current rotary in terms of power, feel, weight, and amenities. If I had a choice, I would get the 849x but I don`t do enough heavy compounding (once every 6 or so months) to justify the spend.

[VenzaDetailer07]

I bought that same rotary from harbor freight for use with cotton buffing wheels for polishing tanks on big trucks etc. I felt that it was a pretty big distraction, trying to adjust the speed with the buttons and found it somewhat hard to find the on off switch while running the machine. I gave it away. I also found that the machine had my hands and forearm cramping up within minutes. IMO it is a very uncomfortable tool to use with too much of a chance to burn paint because you lose focus on your work while trying to adjust the speed. I`ve no doubt that you`d like a Makita or a Dewalt much better just for the ergonomics of them. I commend you on not being afraid to give the rotary a try, as so many people are.

I really appreciate the information on it. I know alot of people out there really scare the hell out of people regarding using a rotary buffer but it is a matter of just being informed of some of the basic rules of using a rotary buffer like making sure you don`t keep the pad in one place and usually the person is good. Then it is just a matter of practice, practice, practice.