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  1. #1

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    Feb 2011
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    Well I just bought a 2011 CTS-V in black. I just couldn`t resist the car - after test driving a lot of other decent (and many more expensive) options, this one put the biggest smile on my face.



    I`ve never done correction work on an american car. What should I expect paint hardness wise? The car has heavy mild swirls, meaning there are a ton of fine swirls all over the car but nothing too deep except in the standard places like on the rear bumper where the trunk opens.



    Any tips / tricks / suggestions / words of wisdom before I get started would be appreciated. I work with a flex orbital, M105 and menzerna 106fa mostly. I have yellow, orange, green, blue, and black pads - pretty much whatever detailersdomain.com offers.



    Any insight appreciated!

  2. #2
    maxepr1's Avatar
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    With what you have on hand, I would go with 105 and orange or yellow. Speed 4-5 with moderate pressure. I did a few of these and the paint was different on all of them, nothing that couldn`t be corrected though. Finish it off with 106 and a blue pad. If you had a rotary you could jewel it down with black and 85rd(4500), it will leave a nice wet finish.

  3. #3

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    Black GM paint = super hard. I typically go with M105 on a Purple Foam Wool and the Flex on top speed. Work the area as long as you can (it will get VERY dusty) then clean it up with some 205 on a tangerine pad.


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  4. #4

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    Thanks guys - time for me to get started!

  5. #5

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    Very hard clear, no doubt. Depending how bad it is, you almost have to go with 105. I myself use my Makita for them, just because they`re easy to scratch , but not so easy to correct.

  6. #6
    Rasky's Auto Detailing RaskyR1's Avatar
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    I just finished up another STS-V last weekend and I`ve done several of the CTS-V`s as well, all in black of course. Light marring (cob-webbing) can be cleaned up relatively easily with M105, MF/D300, SIP, or even power finish. The deeper scratches will likely require require Surbuf on the DA or wool on a rotary. I find the paint to be a little sensitive with the DA and it may leave behind some very faint micro marring with some pads/polishes. The paint really seems to like Menzerna and 106fa finishes down very well for me. For optimal results I`d finish with a rotary though.





    Here are a few of the ones I`ve done. They are a few years older so I can only assume the paint is the same on the 2011`s.





    http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...orrection.html



    http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...detailing.html



    http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...d-coating.html

 

 

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