I need another alternative to m205

[porta]

well i`m more worried about cleaning up my marks from m105 wool, and m105 orange before adding gloss is what I mean.



The p02 is rated at a 3.5 cut, and is considered (by menzerna) as a polish. not a finishing polish.. I`m still curious as to it`s finish down ability.

PO203S is a one step polish who will finish out very well if the user knows how to handle a buffer. Get some PO203S and PO106FA and give it a try.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...werfinish.html

[Accumulator]

well i`m more worried about cleaning up my marks from m105 wool, and m105 orange before adding gloss is what I mean..

Ah, copy that, thanks for clarifying.



The M105/orange never leaves things all *that* hazed up for me, but then I work on pretty hard clear most of the time. It sounds like the PO203 might be just what you`re looking for.

[Accumulator]

It depends on what you leave behind from m105 which is dependent on the hardness/softness of the clear....



Imo, it doesnt matter whether its called a finishing polish. For the things i do, my priority will be achieving holo/marring free finish and not aiming for ulitmate possible shine and I think it may be the same for you. If I can just use m105 and not leaving any marring/holo behind, i would, but most cases, I cant.

Ever tried using M105 with a *finishing* pad? It never quite works out right for me as in ready-to-wax, but others here (who really know their stuff) say it works great for them. Note that they`re using it via RO/DA for that though, not via rotary.

[solekeeper]

PO203S is a one step polish who will finish out very well if the user knows how to handle a buffer. Get some PO203S and PO106FA and give it a try.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...werfinish.html

wow, thank you for posting that link! They sure do look convincing. That p02 looks like it can tackle some serious correction.

However, after my m105 wool, m105 orange, do you think that it might put in more scratches? ( i ask this because it looks like a pretty heavy cut compound)

[dschia]

Ever tried using M105 with a *finishing* pad? It never quite works out right for me as in ready-to-wax, but others here (who really know their stuff) say it works great for them. Note that they`re using it via RO/DA for that though, not via rotary.

Nope, I dint try m105+ DA/RO with a finishing pad but I think the clear has to be on the harder side base on my experience with PC + m205, but then again, both polishes may work very differently, so never try never know. However, I did try rotary + m105 + LC white, black and gold on a black honda accord and only manage to achieve very minimal cut in return with hell lot of holos.

[dschia]

Depends on how you define heavy cut compound. I think the key is you need to know the hardness/softness of the clear. With all factors kept the same, the result with m105 between a soft and hard clear can be very drastic. Rotary + M105+ LC orange can really screw up a honda with soft clear but merely correct a bmw with hard clear.



Just give PO203S and PO106FA a try, it is very difficult to know a polish without hands on since you will be using it with your preferred tools, techniques, pads and the type of clearcoat you facing with.

[solekeeper]

Depends on how you define heavy cut compound. I think the key is you need to know the hardness/softness of the clear. With all factors kept the same, the result with m105 between a soft and hard clear can be very drastic. Rotary + M105+ LC orange can really screw up a honda with soft clear but merely correct a bmw with hard clear.



Just give PO203S and PO106FA a try, it is very difficult to know a polish without hands on since you will be using it with your preferred tools, techniques, pads and the type of clearcoat you facing with.

yea, you`re right. I guess the two biggest variables for me is that i`m dealing with hard body shop clear (I say hard because i had my bumper repainted, and since that time i have never waxed it or anything, and as of right now I barely have any micro-marring at all)



And that I also use a rotary. I`ll ask around more for opinions about this p02

[porta]

How did it go in your search for the holy grail?

[imported_RZJZA80]

FWIW, I`ve been using 205 with Hydrotech Cyan 5.5" and Griot`s 6" DA as a one step and it`s worked perfectly. I`ve tried this on both a Gallardo and a Benzx black series and both times I went straight to LSP (both were black)

[wfedwar]

Are those both hard paints?



Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

[imported_RZJZA80]

Are those both hard paints?



Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

The Gallardo was pretty hard clear, the Benz black series was on the softer side. Since then, I also used the same technique as mentioned on a Vette ZR1 and it again worked perfectly and went straight to LSP. Last night I tried it on a new black GTR and while it did not remove the RIDS, it did remove everything else and went straight to LSP. I`ll be trying it tomorrow on a FOrd GT and see how that works out

[solekeeper]

How did it go in your search for the holy grail?

still searching, i`m leaning towards a Menzerna Polish. I`m in talks with david fermani, he`s helping me out.

Just asking questions to try and guage what will work best for me.

thanks for all your help!

[AeroCleanse]

I`m starting to use a lot more Dodo Juice Lime Prime. With any luck, I`ll be testing one out that has more cut, soon.

[Accumulator]

I`m starting to use a lot more Dodo Juice Lime Prime. With any luck, I`ll be testing one out that has more cut, soon.

That stuff has piqued my interest a few times, but I`ve never been sure what I`d actually use it on :think:

[AeroCleanse]

Lime Prime gets out swirl marks and helps the surface get ready for wax. Seems that wax goes on easier and the residue comes off easier when I use it. It doesn`t get out RIDS, which I am hoping the extra cut version will.