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  1. #16
    GOT PREP? EBPcivicsi's Avatar
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    What pad are using with m105? What exactly are you doing? Are you sanding, then m105 (pad?), then M205. I too only use m205 as a finishing polish. I find that the oils are only an issue when one tries to skip too many steps on the ladder.



    IMO, to go from M105 wool to M205 (any pad) just leaves too much of a gap. Not saying this is the case, just my general opinion.



    We did a phantom last week that was unbelievably hammered...twisted wool/rotary/M105/1700, M105/rotary/red finishing pad, M205/flex/red finishing pad, M301/flex/blue finishing pad.



    My point here is that M105/205 is *very* versatile, but like all polishes the trip down the ladder must be made. Remember that M105/205 wool to finihsing pad combo is really designed for "customer pleasing" results in high volume body shops. In order to have "autopian pleasing results" a bit of tweaking is needed.



    FWIW, once you know what the product can or cannot do, the oils aren`t that big of a deal IMO. Now when choosing LSP they can be a PITA, but that too just takes time and tweaking....or you could just use a Meguiars LSP, but that might not be yor cup of tea.
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  2. #17

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    I did try P1 and honestly, for me, (and I really wanted it to work as well as some say it does) it didn`t work at compounding. Looked nice though. I can`t see how it works better than 105. I`d say that it is like optimum`s spray compound. Not a real compound, more like a medium polish. I guess it should work for the OP after 105. Menzerna is also a good choice, but removal is easier with P1

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebpcivicsi
    .. the [M205] oils aren`t that big of a deal IMO...


    Wonder if our different locations (heat/etc.) make a diff in that regard? The oils simply drive me *nuts*, if not for PrepWash (IPA just doesn`t cut it for me) I don`t think I could use the stuff on my own vehicles. From the way the vehicle is covered with pseudo holograms under certain lighting, to the residue that I had to struggle with for hours after using ZAIO afterwards (even though I`d PrepWashed), the oils are almost a deal-breaker for me.



    When I did our favorite Yukon (BTW, I`m gonna sell that thing before it drives me nuts ) with M205 I spent *hours* IPAing it to get the oils off so I could do inpsections, far more time that I was spending polishing! That`s when I went ahead and switched to PrepWash.

  4. #19

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    Test some compounds from Mark V, they are good, easy to work with and rather cheap in the US.

  5. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebpcivicsi
    What pad are using with m105? What exactly are you doing? Are you sanding, then m105 (pad?), then M205. I too only use m205 as a finishing polish. I find that the oils are only an issue when one tries to skip too many steps on the ladder.



    IMO, to go from M105 wool to M205 (any pad) just leaves too much of a gap. Not saying this is the case, just my general opinion.



    We did a phantom last week that was unbelievably hammered...twisted wool/rotary/M105/1700, M105/rotary/red finishing pad, M205/flex/red finishing pad, M301/flex/blue finishing pad.



    My point here is that M105/205 is *very* versatile, but like all polishes the trip down the ladder must be made. Remember that M105/205 wool to finihsing pad combo is really designed for "customer pleasing" results in high volume body shops. In order to have "autopian pleasing results" a bit of tweaking is needed.



    FWIW, once you know what the product can or cannot do, the oils aren`t that big of a deal IMO. Now when choosing LSP they can be a PITA, but that too just takes time and tweaking....or you could just use a Meguiars LSP, but that might not be yor cup of tea.






    with the m105, I;m using meguiars maroon wool.

    Then, i switch it up for the 2nd step depending on the vehicle color.



    I`ll then do, m205-orange foam for (silvers, whites) etc.

    The dark colors, m105wool, m105-orange, m205white.



    I just feel like the 205 isn`t cutting enough for me, and the oils are INSANE. i`m not even in a high volume body shop and it`s still driving me nuts.

  6. #21
    GOT PREP? EBPcivicsi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator
    Wonder if our different locations (heat/etc.) make a diff in that regard? The oils simply drive me *nuts*, if not for PrepWash (IPA just doesn`t cut it for me) I don`t think I could use the stuff on my own vehicles. From the way the vehicle is covered with pseudo holograms under certain lighting, to the residue that I had to struggle with for hours after using ZAIO afterwards (even though I`d PrepWashed), the oils are almost a deal-breaker for me.



    When I did our favorite Yukon (BTW, I`m gonna sell that thing before it drives me nuts ) with M205 I spent *hours* IPAing it to get the oils off so I could do inpsections, far more time that I was spending polishing! That`s when I went ahead and switched to PrepWash.


    It could very well be. When we use it, we keep a *very* clean pad, work it until it is almost gone, then move to the next section. We do an initial wipe of the "section", then let everything "dry" before doing a final wipe. We also use very little polish on the pad once primed. You don`t have the *really* thin version that is floating around, do you? The oils drove me nuts with that stuff...took it back immediately. We use a gallon or so every three weeks, wonder if there was a rolling change and perhaps we aren`t comparing apples to apples. I noticed that the more we used, the "cleaner" it would wipe??? We can even use LSP`s that don`t have any significant cleaners in them after the M205 without issue--collinite products are out, but UPP, wolfgang, etc can be used without issue.
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by solekeeper
    with the m105, I;m using meguiars maroon wool.

    Then, i switch it up for the 2nd step depending on the vehicle color.



    I`ll then do, m205-orange foam for (silvers, whites) etc.

    The dark colors, m105wool, m105-orange, m205white.



    I just feel like the 205 isn`t cutting enough for me, and the oils are INSANE. i`m not even in a high volume body shop and it`s still driving me nuts.


    Gotcha...



    FWIW, the maroon meguiars pad *for me* leaves some of the nastiest marring that I have ever seen. I always just use full twisted wool when I need something that aggressive. I can produce a better finish with the twisted wool, which helps me finish with m205(obviosly with a middle step).



    Obviously you are going down the ladder...do me a favor just for poops and giggles, try m105 with a red pad for your middle step. Use more polish and slightly smaller sections than you normally would and see what happens. See if the M205 does better after that combo...if you can stand to give it another try.



    BTW, is your M205 watery thin?
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  8. #23

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    You may want to pick up a bottle of Menzerna Power Finish. It has more cut than M205 and it finishes off just as well as M205 on most paints. It is fairly oily, but would be a good follow up polish to M105. Are you using a DA or rotary?

  9. #24

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    Found a video showing P1000 grit sanding scratches being taken out.



    BespokeCarDetailing and AeroCleanse, LLC

  10. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebpcivicsi
    ...FWIW, the maroon meguiars pad *for me* leaves some of the nastiest marring that I have ever seen. I always just use full twisted wool when I need something that aggressive...


    Flip-side here, I`ve been really liking that 7006 pad *on non-rotaries*. Via Flex and even Griot`s 6" it`s been working well for me with both M105 and Optimum HC. But yeah, via rotary I`d much rather use wool most of the time. Oddly enough though, that pad (in a larger size) was just the ticket on that M3 I had; none of my wool pads seemed to work quite as well for some reason :nixweiss

    Obviously you are going down the ladder...do me a favor just for poops and giggles, try m105 with a red pad for your middle step. Use more polish and slightly smaller sections than you normally would and see what happens
    .



    M105 via finishing pad is very popular with some people! I can`t seem to get it to work right for me, but I`m certain that`s user-error.

    BTW, is your M205 watery thin?


    I had a gallon like that! I sent it back and got a replacement, but they never did comment on what was up with it.

  11. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebpcivicsi
    ..When we use [M205], we keep a *very* clean pad, work it until it is almost gone, then move to the next section. We do an initial wipe of the "section", then let everything "dry" before doing a final wipe. We also use very little polish on the pad once primed.... I noticed that the more we used, the "cleaner" it would wipe??? We can even use LSP`s that don`t have any significant cleaners in them after the M205 without issue--collinite products are out, but UPP, wolfgang, etc can be used without issue.


    I will admit I don`t keep the pad quite as clean as with M105, but I don`t think that`s the problem. I actually think I have my technique down OK with this product, but under the SunGun I often see those oily pseudo-holograms (sometimes, rarely, see `em in the sun too).



    Huh...UPP with no issues?!? I wouldn`t have tried that one after M205.



    And it`s funny that you say "Collinite products are out" as I *have* used them after M205 with no problems!



    Heh heh, we`re sure having different experiences with this one!

  12. #27

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    I like M105-M205-Werkstat Prime, M105-M205-BF GEP, M105-M205-FPII... If you want a two-step, the best bet IMO is M105-PO106. Never tried that particular combo, but from my experience with both, it will probably work.

  13. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by ebpcivicsi
    Gotcha...



    FWIW, the maroon meguiars pad *for me* leaves some of the nastiest marring that I have ever seen. I always just use full twisted wool when I need something that aggressive. I can produce a better finish with the twisted wool, which helps me finish with m205(obviosly with a middle step).



    Obviously you are going down the ladder...do me a favor just for poops and giggles, try m105 with a red pad for your middle step. Use more polish and slightly smaller sections than you normally would and see what happens. See if the M205 does better after that combo...if you can stand to give it another try.



    BTW, is your M205 watery thin?






    I`d have to get a red pad, don`t currently have one. And what do you mean by watery thin?

  14. #29

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    like rickrack mentioned, how does menzerna power finish cut?





    And guys, would maybe 2 passes with the m205 help the situation? Or should I just switch the middle step?

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator
    Flip-side here, I`ve been really liking that 7006 pad *on non-rotaries*. Via Flex and even Griot`s 6" it`s been working well for me with both M105 and Optimum HC. But yeah, via rotary I`d much rather use wool most of the time. Oddly enough though, that pad (in a larger size) was just the ticket on that M3 I had; none of my wool pads seemed to work quite as well for some reason :nixweiss

    .



    M105 via finishing pad is very popular with some people! I can`t seem to get it to work right for me, but I`m certain that`s user-error.





    I had a gallon like that! I sent it back and got a replacement, but they never did comment on what was up with it.


    Sorry, I thought that we were talking about the W-WHC7 wool cutting pad for the solo system. I really like the 7006, really nice pad.



    That watery stuff was nasty to work with!
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