Rotary Questions

**schiddy** · 02-15-2011, 11:13 PM

So I took the plunge about a year ago and got a griots garage 6" DA. I have since polished a 90`s black mazda 626, a 95 tan corolla, a custom painted black bike, and just a small portion of my 07 civic si NHBP. What seems to work for me when the paint is has lots of swirls is what I believe to be the KB method with 1-3 passes m105 on 4" cyan hydrotech, and 1-2 passes m205 with 4" tangerine hydrotech. I have 6" hydrotech pads also but they do not seem to work nearly as well for me, even for regular swirling I have to use the 4" pads in 18-20" squares.

Planning to tackle my highly swirled, RIDS`d, and hologramed black civic in the spring is giving me anxiety lol. Especially since I want to add a last step of PO87MC, m205 seemed difficult to finish with on this paint. It took me forever to do just the hood of the civic when I was testing last fall. It took 2-3 passes of m105 and 3 passes of m205, despite the soft NHBP paint. At that rate it`ll take me 2 whole days to do the car. Eventually I`d like to do friends cars or a client here and there but it just seems impossible with a DA and my current methods. So here are my questions.

1.) So for you pros and elite enthusiasts out there, what efficient and result driven method do you turn too? Rotary -> finish with DA? Just Rotary?

2.) Is it possible to jewel with and break down polishes like Final Polish II (PO87MC) with a DA?

3.) What model rotaries are recommended? (ex: like how griots DA, flex DA, etc are always recom.)

4.) If I bought a rotary I would assume I need diff pads, etc. Do the same polishes work?

5.) Best thing to practice on? Junkyard panels in house or crap cars? Would I be risking disaster practicing on the civic?

6.) Can you provide a quick breakdown of an average rotary polish? (ex: 3 passe of 6" purple LC wool pad, IP, 20ft sections, 15k rpms. Then FP on no cut 18" pad etc etc lol)

**JohnKleven** · 02-16-2011, 12:17 AM

It sounds like you`re getting comfortable enough polishing that you can probably pick up polishing with a rotary pretty easily. I personally finish with a rotary, I find it finishes better than a D.A. If you are using a product with a diminishing abrasive, like Menzerna you will be able to finish down much quicker than with a D.A. I`m not sure about the FPII, but if it`s anything like Super Finish, or 85rd you can definitely finish down with a D.A. I recommend the DeWalt rotary for several reasons. The Dewalt has the best adjustable trigger of the bunch, which equates to more control of the buffer. It also does not have the silly slow start trigger that the Makita has, which just makes it easier to sling compound when you`re starting off. It also has the most power of the bunch, and won`t bog down too much, which is nice when you become a more experienced polisher and will be wanting the extra power. It is however the heaviest buffer on the market. Most pads that are designed for a D.A. will also work on a rotary. Some polishes however, will only work on a D.A. or on a rotary, as some polishes will dry out immediately on a rotary because they are designed to be used on a slower working D.A. I really don`t think you`ll have a problem trying a rotary out on your civic. Just take it slow to start, and practice on flat panels before you work on more complex areas. Everyone polishes differently, and some people might be surprised that I polish using every rpm from 1000-3000. If you`ve got some Menzerna polishes though, you`re on the right track. Best of luck.

John

**schiddy** · 02-16-2011, 12:38 AM

Thanks for taking the time to write that up John, really gives me hope for learning rotaries.

**RaskyR1** · 02-16-2011, 10:07 AM

I think you can achieve very good results with your DA, you just need to dial in you technique a little. I`ve worked on a handful on 8thgen civics and even with 6" pads, correction comes easy. It`s all about technique!

While I`d agree with John that on some paints the rotary finishes down a little better, the majority of people out there would not be able to tell the difference. I`d say the comfort of knowing your not going to have holograms sneak back up on you a few weeks later is more important than that extra 1-3% in gloss. It takes time and experience to learn how to finish down without leaving holograms.

IMO you should stick with your current tool and focus more on dialing in the technique for the products your using and the paints your working on. Focus on your arm speed, section size, applied pressure, pad care, and amount of product used. Too many detailer get fed up with a tool because they are not seeing the results they want right away. Give it time, check out some youtube videos and read some of the excellent article that are available to you.

The new Meguiars Microfiber DA system is coming out soon too which is just one more reason to stick with the tool you have now.

Just my $.02

Rasky

**mikenap** · 02-16-2011, 12:55 PM

Also, it should be pointed out that if the vehicle is in the shape you describe, then it could easily be a 2 day job. Doing a thorough wash and prep followed by cutting and finishing, and finally rewashing and sealing/waxing all take their fair share of time to do it right. Don`t get discouraged by the time put in, as Accumulator once said, "It takes as long as it takes."

**schiddy** · 02-16-2011, 01:33 PM

Now that`s it`s been confirmed Menzerna products will fully break down with a DA, I have full confidence that my DA can finish out very close to a rotary. Guess I just have to be patient. Takes FOREVER to do a whole car with 4" pads! lol

**BigAl3** · 02-16-2011, 02:22 PM

also to add to the new megs microfiber DA pads, check out the Surbuf pads (assuming you want to buy them right now and can`t wait for the new megs microfiber DA pads to come out) as well...

**RaskyR1** · 02-16-2011, 02:40 PM

Originally Posted by schiddy

Now that`s it`s been confirmed Menzerna products will fully break down with a DA, I have full confidence that my DA can finish out very close to a rotary. Guess I just have to be patient. Takes FOREVER to do a whole car with 4" pads! lol

I would image so!

Kevin Brown gives some good insights into pad size in this thread.

Buffing Pad Surface Area Chart - Truth In Detailing Auto Detailing Forum

5.5" pads are great middle of the road pad and are great for most average sized cars. I personally only use the 4" for tight areas and would never attempt a whole car with them.