3M Ultrafina, on a scale of 1-10

[RaskyR1]

Very informative post Todd! :xyxthumbs

[David Fermani]

UF has much more cut than SRP. You couldn`t be more wrong.

this is how Autopian myths are born.

I can see this thread getting locked and a massive Autopian BS myth being left unchallenged. There is a problem when obviously incorrect info is let go and than becomes a truth just because you like the person who provides the incorrect info and dislike the person who challenges it.

Man, all those top detailers on Detailing World

Speaking of people here responsible for starting myths & Detailing World, I found this thread to be very informative to the OT:



AIO Shootout Part 1 - DodoJuice, Autoglym, BiltHamber & TurtleWax - Detailing World



I have to say the AutoGlym Super Resin Polish is much stronger than a .5 !!! UltraFina can`t do that.



Here`s what SRP did on this Aston:

[Tony1]

Speaking of people here responsible for starting myths & Detailing World, I found this thread to be very informative to the OT:



AIO Shootout Part 1 - DodoJuice, Autoglym, BiltHamber & TurtleWax - Detailing World



I have to say the AutoGlym Super Resin Polish is much stronger than a .5 !!! UltraFina can`t do that.



Here`s what SRP did on this Aston:

The person who started this thread said SRP was .5 not me. I said UF has more cut than SRP and it does for me.



That thread from Deatilingworld has nothing got do with this thread. The guy didn`t use UF in his tests so what was I supposed to get out of it? He tested some AIO products by hand.



Why don`t you link this thread on there and see what they think about your paint thinner claims. I`m sure they would get a laugh.



Why don`t you explain the paint thinner claim?

[Tuck91]

Shut the hell up Anthony A.



Or go be someones little junkyard detailing *****.

[Tony1]

Shut the hell up Anthony A.



Or go be someones little junkyard detailing *****.

I wondered when you would grace this thread with your stupidity.



Another loser mocking me because I have the sense to use some panels from scrap cars to experiment on. Unbelievable. I think there have been 3 maybe 4 retards who have mocked that in this thread. I don`t think they know why they are mocking it they just seem to follow the retard in front of them.



Do a search for "scrap yard" on here. Tons of threads with very well known and respected detailers suggesting going to a scrap yard to get scrap panels or in some cases whole scrap cars to practice on. It is IDIOTIC to learn some things on a good car. That is not where you want to make your mistakes. The fact that I have to explain this to some proves you are fools. Since you are fools and probably can`t use the search I did it for you.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/search.php?searchid=363157





I would love to see these guys the first time they use a rotary or wet sand. They going to do it on an actual car? They are actually mocking practicing. Can you believe that? I don`t know maybe they will go to town on mommy`s car. Maybe thats what cool people do.

[Tuck91]

Well, you graced this thread with nine pages of your stupidity. Whos the bigger idiot?

[Tony1]

Well, you graced this thread with nine pages of your stupidity. Whos the bigger idiot?

Did you ask your mommy to help with that lame comeback?



Did you read any of the threads in the search I linked? See how many people use scrap to practice on? Got anything else to say fool?

[Tuck91]

Got anything else to say fool?

That your a dumb POS and are an embarrasment to this forum.



I think several others in this thread have stated something to that affect already though.

[Tony1]

That your a dumb POS and are an embarrasment to this forum.



I think several others in this thread have stated something to that affect already though.

HA HA Loser.

[Barry Theal]

To the OP I have never used SRP so I can`t compare the the two. I can tell you that I personally think Ultrafina has such a minimal abrasive in it that why why you need it?



If I may chime in on the whole filling thing with Ultrafina. I have found this product to fill. To me this product is a waste of time and money. When it come to TRUE correction which I personally feel very few completely understand what truely corrected paint looks like and feels like. It takes a trained eye and years of experiance to fully understand this, so Ill try to keep it simple, plus I`m not that best at typing. When it comes to correction your goal is to level the paint perfectly flat. The more refined and milled the surface is the more gloss can be acheived. For years I used to think that a final polish was a must for true correction and shine. Persay you could really amp up the gloss on a black car with Ultrafina then use a a quick detailer wipe it clean and then wax it. For a while the paint will look amazing, but is it true? Is it the carrier oils left behind and massaged into the paint or is it a perfectly milled flat surface? Thats the importance of cleaning the paint. While some have used IPA, Solvents, Thinners, I can remember using window cleaner with amonia in the old days, Yes it is possible for some polishes to last threw all types of paint cleaners.



These days some of things I have been capable of doing with just one product are blowing me away. I would say on the last several cars that I have done. Ones worth doing anyways have not received nothing more then M105. This was done on hard paint and some nice soft paint like BMW Jet Black. I used to think that a dimishing product was the way to go, but at what point does the abrasive diminsh and the polish is nothing more the a carrier oil? Now on the flipside How can a Non Diminish abbrasive finish down so perfect? Think about it the abbraisve would never dissapear yet its so perfectly tuned that is will finish better then a product the the abbraisves diminsh? These are the things that when fully understood with an open mind will make a talented detailer,great. THere is a big difference between being a great internet detailer and marketer and a detailer who fully understands paint correction! I have recently corrected a car that was finished with chemical guys EZ Creme glaze. I now know personally the filling potentials this products has. Many say it cleans paint great with no filling. Maybe they should think of this. Any product if massage into the paint will give the illusion that that paint has been cleaned, but its not. What these products actually do is massage the fillers into remaing microscopic scrathes that trick the untrained eye to think they are removed yet they are just filled in. Before applying a LSP the paint should be squeaky clean, free of oils. It shouldn`t be slick or anything.



When doing a 3 stage polishing The first step should be to level the paint to the point that it may actually look worse then it did before you even started. Persay when using a wool pad and a heavier compound it will level paint fast leaving behind marring induced by the pad and product. Depending on the shill level of the technition it may also leave behind holograms from unequally applied pressure. The second is designed to remove all marring left behind from the first step. At this point the paint should be treuly correctted. If a third step is need its usally to remove holograms from the unevenly applied pressure. This is where ultrafina is great because it has carrier oils that allow you to work the paint with no pressure applied allowing for the holograms to disappear while in the meantime it will fill in any such micro marring left behind. This will give the illusion of a flawless paint. In true, Is it corrected at this point? Or did the oils just mask the defects. It my opinion it just mask the defects.



Plus by doing a IPA wipedown you will lose some gloss and remove the fillers left behind. There are so many varibles that come into play with correction that its is virtually impossible to sit here and argue about who is right and who is wrong. After all, we all do things differently, while trying to follow the guidelines left behind for us by our mentors or teachers. What I have these days is that polishing a car is a waste. If one would begin to fully uinderstand the technology of M105 and how versatile it is. You will understand what I mean. Just this past week I have been working with a gentleman on machine polishing and explaining all this crap to him and today he finished down with m105 and was amazed. He has no experiance prior to me, yet by listening and understanding he made it almost look easy. Good luck to the OP with your choice, But may I suggest trying to full y understand all aspects of paint correction. DOn`t just do it, understand what your actaully doing. Also keep an open mind for thinking outside the box.

[BluBrett]

Thank you so much to those of you that helped me. I really am grateful for the information. Even the times this thread got off topic, I learned from those too. I started this thread because I have some extremely light but noticeable and very hard to get rid of hologramming left over on my Acura.

:thx



Also, WOW, this thread blew up!

[Tony1]

To the OP I have never used SRP so I can`t compare the the two. I can tell you that I personally think Ultrafina has such a minimal abrasive in it that why why you need it?



If I may chime in on the whole filling thing with Ultrafina. I have found this product to fill. To me this product is a waste of time and money. When it come to TRUE correction which I personally feel very few completely understand what truely corrected paint looks like and feels like. It takes a trained eye and years of experiance to fully understand this, so Ill try to keep it simple, plus I`m not that best at typing. When it comes to correction your goal is to level the paint perfectly flat. The more refined and milled the surface is the more gloss can be acheived. For years I used to think that a final polish was a must for true correction and shine. Persay you could really amp up the gloss on a black car with Ultrafina then use a a quick detailer wipe it clean and then wax it. For a while the paint will look amazing, but is it true? Is it the carrier oils left behind and massaged into the paint or is it a perfectly milled flat surface? Thats the importance of cleaning the paint. While some have used IPA, Solvents, Thinners, I can remember using window cleaner with amonia in the old days, Yes it is possible for some polishes to last threw all types of paint cleaners.



These days some of things I have been capable of doing with just one product are blowing me away. I would say on the last several cars that I have done. Ones worth doing anyways have not received nothing more then M105. This was done on hard paint and some nice soft paint like BMW Jet Black. I used to think that a dimishing product was the way to go, but at what point does the abrasive diminsh and the polish is nothing more the a carrier oil? Now on the flipside How can a Non Diminish abbrasive finish down so perfect? Think about it the abbraisve would never dissapear yet its so perfectly tuned that is will finish better then a product the the abbraisves diminsh? These are the things that when fully understood with an open mind will make a talented detailer,great. THere is a big difference between being a great internet detailer and marketer and a detailer who fully understands paint correction! I have recently corrected a car that was finished with chemical guys EZ Creme glaze. I now know personally the filling potentials this products has. Many say it cleans paint great with no filling. Maybe they should think of this. Any product if massage into the paint will give the illusion that that paint has been cleaned, but its not. What these products actually do is massage the fillers into remaing microscopic scrathes that trick the untrained eye to think they are removed yet they are just filled in. Before applying a LSP the paint should be squeaky clean, free of oils. It should be slick or anything.



When doing a 3 stage polishing The first step should be to level the paint to the point that it may actually look worse then it did before you even started. Persay when using a wool pad and a heavier compound it will level paint fast leaving behind marring induced by the pad and product. Depending on the shill level of the technition it may also leave behind holograms from unequally applied pressure. The second is designed to remove all marring left behind from the first step. At this point the paint should be treuly correctted. If a third step is need its usally to remove holograms from the unevenly applied pressure. This is where ultrafina is great because it has carrier oils that allow you to work the paint with no pressure applied allowing for the holograms to disappear while in the meantime it will fill in any such micro marring left behind. This will give the illusion of a flawless paint. In true, Is it corrected at this point? Or did the oils just mask the defects. It my opinion it just mask the defects.



Plus by doing a IPA wipedown you will lose some gloss and remove the fillers left behind. There are so many varibles that come into play with correction that its is virtually impossible to sit here and argue about who is right and who is wrong. After all, we all do things differently, while trying to follow the guidelines left behind for us by our mentors or teachers. What I have these days is that polishing a car is a waste. If one would begin to fully uinderstand the technology of M105 and how versatile it is. You will understand what I mean. Just this past week I have been working with a gentleman on machine polishing and explaining all this crap to him and today he finished down with m105 and was amazed. He has no experiance prior to me, yet by listening and understanding he made it almost look easy. Good luck to the OP with your choice, But may I suggest trying to full y understand all aspects of paint correction. DOn`t just do it, understand what your actaully doing. Also keep an open mind for thinking outside the box.

Do you think the fillers in UF can take multiple applications of paint thinner and not be removed?



You think UF is waste. What would you suggest someone use when the paint has very light marring? You suggest going at that with 105:think: UF works well for me in that situation. The marring does not return and something like 105 is overkill in that situation. I don`t doubt your skills are good enough to finish with 105 and have the paint look great but for light marring it`s overkill.

[Barry Theal]

Do you think the fillers in UF can take multiple applications of paint thinner and not be removed?

Yes I do.

You think UF is waste. What would you suggest someone use when the paint has very light marring? You suggest going at that with 105:think: UF works well for me in that situation. The marring does not return and something like 105 is over kill in that situation. I don`t doubt your skills are good enough to finish with 105 and have the paint look great but for light marring it`s overkill.

Anthony I can fully understand if ultrafina works for you. We all have our own methods. To be honest I own Ultrafina as well as many other products. I beleive if you are doing this for a profession you should have many products in your lineup. As not all products, combinations, work well with all paints. Please take in mind I have read this entire thread and if you choose to argue with me I will sipmle just ignore you. I mean no harm in what I`m saying just trying to offer my experiance. FOr light marring is M105 over kill? Keep in mind M105 has some of the most finely milled abrasives in it that it will level paint fast and it will also finish down perfect with proper methods. Persay why not just use a little less product and a softer pad to get the desired results. You can also add some water to make it more workable like a final polish. Thats what I meant by thinking outside the box.

[sulla]

4

You are a fool. You still think using panels and hoods from the scrap yard to try things on is stupid. I suppose you just jump right in on people`s cars and experiment on them. Using parts of cars from the scarp yard is actually very common. If I remember correctly that big wax test that was done here years ago was done on a scrap hood or something like that. That`s the test that made P21s famous since it scored high or won in that test. There are also many threads on here with people recommending to others to practice on scrap pieces from cars. If you actually thought about it instead of piling on with the band wagon boys you would see it`s actually a good idea you fool.

If anyone`s looking for a difference between a troll and the real autopian expert it`s this....I havent seen David F resorted to namecalling even when a troll taunted him multiple times with its stupid and pathetic paint thinner wipe down challenge

[Tony1]

4



If anyone`s looking for a difference between a troll and the real autopian expert it`s this....I havent seen David F resorted to namecalling even when a troll taunted him multiple times with its stupid and pathetic paint thinner wipe down challenge

I have been called many names in this thread and no one seems to mind that. POS, arse, ***** are just a few. I will only take so much before I retaliate so yeah I called some names back what do you expect when I get attacked?



I was even attacked for suggesting to learn on scrap pieces. A suggestion by the I got from this forum. It has been suggested by many well known detailers on here. When I mentioned I practice or experiment on scrap I get attacked by obvious trolls.



The paint thinner wipe down challenge is certainly not pathetic. Everybody I have talked to about it finds it to be an outrageous claim and thinks it`s pathetic that nobody else challenged it.