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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    I just purchased a Milwaukee 5460 polisher, the is my first polisher of any kind.



    I want to start my collection of supplies, pads, polishes, compounds and the like.



    Funny story i was planning on starting on my 2000 Honda Civic, but it was actually stolen last friday, and well my insurance totaled the car.



    So right now the car i was going to start on was my gf`s 2003 Ford Focus. I am wondering how hard /soft the clear is and what pads i should be purchasing?



    I was thinking about getting Meguiar`s 105 and 205 as they seem to be a good all around compound and polish.



    I am a big fan of Meguiar`s products in general 3m as well. I really would only buy American Made car care supplies.



    Any advice on pad selection would be great, i guess i want to reinforce what I was thinking.



    thanks again

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Wilkes-Barre, PA
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    Welcome. For a first time polisher, I don`t think that I would have purchased a rotary polisher without any experience. This is not to say that you will not get good results or do a good job, but there is a bit more of a learning curve with the rotary as well as more of a chance to damage the paint`s surface. I think I would have started out with a PC 7424 or the Flex 3401. These are random orbitals, and can yield excellent results. With a rotary you have to be careful not to burn the paint, you may have more splatter if you don`t load the pad correctly thus wasting more product, being a beginner, you will probably (not definitely) end up with holograms and possibly more swirls.



    To answer some of your questions:



    HARDNESS: I typically found Ford paint to be relatively soft, however, IMO, hardness and softness is based on the color and location where the vehicle was painted.



    PRODUCTS:
    The 105/205 combination is a good combination, however I think you are not doing any justice by limiting yourself to American made products. Many people here will tell you that they love Menzerna products, and even when I use 105/205 combo, I finish up with Menzerna Micro Polish PO85RD. IF you plan on remaining with American polishes, I have never used it, but I understand 3M Ultrafina is a great product to finish up with before sealants, wax, etc. You should also invest in some Isopropyl Alcohol to wipe the vehicle down in between steps to remove any oils and check your work. Of course, these are just some ideas relating to polishing products. Don`t forget a good shampoo, clay, microfiber towels, sealants, brushes, mitts, wash buckets with grit guards, and not necessary, but a foam gun/foam cannon, pressure washer, wheel/tire cleaners, paint thickness guage, spray bottles, "ketchup or other squeeze bottles", dressings, etc. are helpful. Just to give you an idea of what I have in supply, here are some pictures:



























    PADS: I personally like the Lake Country (LC) and the Right Look pads. I just purchased some Megs SoftBuff pads on the recommendation of some here, but havent had the chance to use them yet.
    Ryan Cywinski - Owner
    Northeast Auto Reflections
    Detail Spa and Mobile Wash, LLC
    www.northeastautoreflections.com

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Nice setup you have going there Street5927. I really need to get all my stuff labelled and boxed too... More work for another day I guess. :think:



    I may be sounding like a broken record, but everything Street5927 is true. I started with the PC7424XP and gradually worked my way up to the Flex 3401 and DeWalt 849 (Rotary). To be honest, the rotary doesn`t even come out anymore with the Flex at bay. The versatility of the DA polishers are amazing and they are definitely a lot safer, especially for beginners. I would highly recommend investing in one because chances are, you`ll need one to run over the holograms that rotaries like to leave behind. :buffing:



    In terms of (necessary) products, the basics run down with:

    1) Wash Product - Try ONR, you can kill more birds with one stone because it can be diluted to make an excellent quick detailer, clay lube, and wash)

    2) Clay - I like Clay Magic Blue, easy to work and easy to use

    3) Polish - Menzerna Power Finish works great as a light polish/finishing polish all in one step

    4) Isopropyl Alcohol - 50/50 with water

    5) Sealant - Opti-Seal is a nice way to keep it simple

    6) Dressing - Poorboys` Trim Restorer works well at protecting all the plastics and vinyl



    Pads wise, it really depends on the job. Lake County is perfect for their large (confusing) line of products that have something for everyone. The CCS pads work for me, but I know a lot of people don`t like the "dimples" in the pad. If you do go with the LC pads, the teal pad works great all round for cutting and finishing and I can`t tell the difference between a car that has been finished between a teal pad and a blue/black pad.



    There are a bunch of other optional products that Street mentioned, but for a weekend warrior/enthusiast I don`t really see the added benefits at this point.



    I suck with a camera so no pictures from me.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    I do realize buying a orbital was a big step, and might have been te best choice but for the deal i got, i really could not refuse.



    Also all of the random orbital polishers are made over seas and I really won`t buy that stuff, might sound odd but thats just a principal i live by.



    Anyway, I have been using ONR and megs clay with onr as lube. Using groute sponges, double buckets, and microfibers all around.



    Sadly i live at an apartment without a hose of any kind so using a foam gun sadly can`t happen, i kind of don`t want to b/c of all the water involved, also why i love onr.



    Hopefully when it get a tiny bit warmer i will be purchasing more clean tools, brushes and what not, but have just been using separate micro fibers or different sponges.



    I would like to use 3M products and had thought about getting as well hearing about using it to finish.



    I plan to start of slowly, very slowly infact.



    I have been reading all of the tips on the stickied sections, kb method, and anything i have been able to find.



    I

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Wilkes-Barre, PA
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    Quote Originally Posted by pumafeet10
    I do realize buying a orbital was a big step, and might have been te best choice but for the deal i got, i really could not refuse.



    Also all of the random orbital polishers are made over seas and I really won`t buy that stuff, might sound odd but thats just a principal i live by.



    Anyway, I have been using ONR and megs clay with onr as lube. Using groute sponges, double buckets, and microfibers all around.



    Sadly i live at an apartment without a hose of any kind so using a foam gun sadly can`t happen, i kind of don`t want to b/c of all the water involved, also why i love onr.



    Hopefully when it get a tiny bit warmer i will be purchasing more clean tools, brushes and what not, but have just been using separate micro fibers or different sponges.



    I would like to use 3M products and had thought about getting as well hearing about using it to finish.



    I plan to start of slowly, very slowly infact.



    I have been reading all of the tips on the stickied sections, kb method, and anything i have been able to find.



    I


    If I am not mistaken, the 5460 is a rotary, not an orbital.
    Ryan Cywinski - Owner
    Northeast Auto Reflections
    Detail Spa and Mobile Wash, LLC
    www.northeastautoreflections.com

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    yeah sorry about that, you are very correct

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Long Island
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    177
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    You should really look into buying a user porter cable or flex. If you have never used a machine before I highly recommend to use a DA. The rotary takes time to get used to it. This is why I would get the basics down on a DA instead of burning threw your paint and costing you $$$. Also the rotary can leave buffer trails/holograms behind if you are not carefull.

    Do not get me wrong once you get the rotary down the DA almost seems pointless to use except for once in a blue moon.



    Go get a DA...





    - LI 85
    1985 Z-28 Camaro Black On Black 6speed 11.24 1/4 Mile --- All Guarded By ZAINO

    2008 Tiburon GT

    2002 Elantra GT

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Does anyone know of a da polisher made in USA?



    just a preference that I have, b/c i really did want to buy a porter cable but they are made overseas

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Michigan
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    you do realize most of the other supplies you listed there we`re more than likely made outside of the USA right? Anyways... if I`m not mistaken the Dewalt D/A I think is a USA made product. It`s not as popular as others on here because you`re basically stuck with the backing plate that it comes with but to learn on it`s a great machine as well.
    -Jake Bright Dynamics Auto Spa.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    Thanks for the info on the Dewalt, I will have to check into that.



    All of the products that I have currently are Made in USA, per product label.



    I am not sure if, but was told by Mike Phillips i believe that all Meg`s polishes were Made in USA, as well as their pads.



    I do not know for sure as I don`t own any of what I was listing M105/205 but will be checking very soon.



    Any one have opinions on HD products?

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Dewalt is made in Mexico, at least my 849 is. I really can`t think of a single DA that`s made in the US with the exception of Cyclo.

 

 

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