Need Help Choosing Pads and Polishes for 7424XP

[K1500 Cheyenne]

How do you plan to clean the pads?



I used the pad cleaner last summer- very fast and very good.



Anyone else using it?



Rob

Oops, forgot about that. :dohI think I`ll buy a few packets of the Snappy Clean Pad Cleaner.

[Accumulator]

I don`t particularly care so much for the shine as much as longevity and durability, which sealants seem to be better for...

IME sealants are *not* always more durable/long-lasting than waxes. If I were only doing one coat of LSP, I`d much rather use Collinite 476S wax than any sealant, with the *possible* exception of FK1000P. And FWIW, I actually reach for the Collinite in those cases instead of the FK1000P.



I haven`t tried the BF Wet Diamond, but the BF sealant I have used (All Finish Paint Protection) didn`t last nearly as long as 476S for me..or at least it didn`t stay slick and easily shed dirt for as long.

[K1500 Cheyenne]

IME sealants are *not* always more durable/long-lasting than waxes. If I were only doing one coat of LSP, I`d much rather use Collinite 476S wax than any sealant, with the *possible* exception of FK1000P. And FWIW, I actually reach for the Collinite in those cases instead of the FK1000P.



I haven`t tried the BF Wet Diamond, but the BF sealant I have used (All Finish Paint Protection) didn`t last nearly as long as 476S for me..or at least it didn`t stay slick and easily shed dirt for as long.

If that`s better, I`ll definitely go that route since I can get that for less than half the price and locally at Harbor Freight, or if not there, somewhere else. I`ve read a lot of good things about 476S, but I had the impression that sealants were still better. I guess I interpreted wrong, thanks!

[Mike_Phillips]

This covers pretty much everything related to using a DA Polisher to remove swirls, polish the paint to a high gloss and then apply and remove a wax or paint sealant by machine too...



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogee...-polisher.html





The most important thing you can do if you`re just starting out is to do a Test Spot, that is test out your pad, product and process to one small area first and make sure you can make one small area look GREAT before going over the entire car.



If you run into any problems then just post back here what you`re seeing and our forum member will all be glad to chime in with their suggestions and tips.



When doing your test spot, it really helps a lot to actually place a strip of painter`s tape onto the panel you`re working on so you can EASILY see the before and after difference due to a strong demarcation line.



For a Test Spot you can use a single strip of tape or do something like this,











The above would be if you wanted to try two different approaches, for example two different pads or the same pads but two different chemicals.



The section on the right is your "control", it`s the section you keep original to compare to your two test spots.





Does anyone remember the thread where the forum member tackled their Avalanche? (I think), they were learning to use a DA Polisher and did a test spot on the door and I think they posted a picture of the door? The end conclusion was the project came out great.





It`s important to test first and dial-in your process and this will give you the confidence to tackle the entire project.

[K1500 Cheyenne]

This covers pretty much everything related to using a DA Polisher to remove swirls, polish the paint to a high gloss and then apply and remove a wax or paint sealant by machine too...



http://www.autopia.org/forum/autogee...-polisher.html





The most important thing you can do if you`re just starting out is to do a Test Spot, that is test out your pad, product and process to one small area first and make sure you can make one small area look GREAT before going over the entire car.



If you run into any problems then just post back here what you`re seeing and our forum member will all be glad to chime in with their suggestions and tips.



When doing your test spot, it really helps a lot to actually place a strip of painter`s tape onto the panel you`re working on so you can EASILY see the before and after difference due to a strong demarcation line.



For a Test Spot you can use a single strip of tape or do something like this,



The above would be if you wanted to try two different approaches, for example two different pads or the same pads but two different chemicals.



The section on the right is your "control", it`s the section you keep original to compare to your two test spots.





Does anyone remember the thread where the forum member tackled their Avalanche? (I think), they were learning to use a DA Polisher and did a test spot on the door and I think they posted a picture of the door? The end conclusion was the project came out great.





It`s important to test first and dial-in your process and this will give you the confidence to tackle the entire project.

Thanks a lot for the link and tip! I don`t think I would have thought to do a test spot, first. I`ll be sure to give that guide a good read, too! :thx

[Mike_Phillips]

Thanks a lot for the link and tip!



I don`t think I would have thought to do a test spot,

Just to note, your reply is encouraging to me. :2thumbs:



I`ve been pounding on the Test Spot Drum since at least 1994 on the Usenet Newsgroups, (these were around before vBulletin was invented), and sometimes I feel like I promote this idea too much.



Fact is, it`s always a good idea for both beginner and seasoned pro alike to do a test spot anytime you`re working on something you`ve never worked on before because until you bring your hand or your polisher down onto the paint and start buffing you don`t know how the paint is going to react and how your process is going to work.



So test first and then evaluate and them move forward or get some advice if you see a problem.

[K1500 Cheyenne]

Just to note, your reply is encouraging to me. :2thumbs:



I`ve been pounding on the Test Spot Drum since at least 1994 on the Usenet Newsgroups, (these were around before vBulletin was invented), and sometimes I feel like I promote this idea too much.



Fact is, it`s always a good idea for both beginner and seasoned pro alike to do a test spot anytime you`re working on something you`ve never worked on before because until you bring your hand or your polisher down onto the paint and start buffing you don`t know how the paint is going to react and how your process is going to work.



So test first and then evaluate and them move forward or get some advice if you see a problem.

Glad to hear! Don`t feel that way; it sounds like an excellent method, especially if it`s worked well for you for over fifteen years! :waxing:

[superchargedg]

I would get at least 3 orange and 3 white pads instead of just 1 each.

[K1500 Cheyenne]

I would get at least 3 orange and 3 white pads instead of just 1 each.

What about two of each of those (I already planned on getting two whites)? Would I need three for just one vehicle, or is it more just for the ease of swapping pads versus cleaning them?

[wannafbody]

2 orange and 2 white LC pads-simple and effective

[superchargedg]

What about two of each of those (I already planned on getting two whites)? Would I need three for just one vehicle, or is it more just for the ease of swapping pads versus cleaning them?

Just the ease of cleaning them versus replaceing them during a detail thats all.

[K1500 Cheyenne]

Just the ease of cleaning them versus replaceing them during a detail thats all.

Alright, that`s what I thought. I just hate to shell out a ton of cash at this point since I really only intend to detail my truck and a few of my family`s vehicles.

[9935annivgt]

You will get so many different suggestions but here are mine: I would go with four inch pads ( I know another backing plate) if you have any serious correction work to do. Otherwise the 5.5 will do the trick. I would get at least 2 orange pads and two or perhaps 3 white pads. I really like the wolfgang twins (they are made by Merzerna) but right now if you look at Danase detailing (going out of business) they have excellant swirl removal (swirl abolishers 1,2,and 3) for an unbeatable price if there are any left and they are high quality products.

[K1500 Cheyenne]

You will get so many different suggestions but here are mine: I would go with four inch pads ( I know another backing plate) if you have any serious correction work to do. Otherwise the 5.5 will do the trick. I would get at least 2 orange pads and two or perhaps 3 white pads. I really like the wolfgang twins (they are made by Merzerna) but right now if you look at Danase detailing (going out of business) they have excellant swirl removal (swirl abolishers 1,2,and 3) for an unbeatable price if there are any left and they are high quality products.

The paint I`ll be dealng with isn`t too terrible (it`s not faded or anything), so hopefully the 5.5" will do fine with patience. I`ll look into the Danese products, thanks!

[Spawne32]

im gona be giving the PC a go at removing 3000 grit sand scratches cus i have to cut and buff my car, so ill be getting 3 yellow, and 3 orange, i bought the PC separately and it comes with a white foam polishing pad.