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Thread: 105 issues

  1. #1

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    Nov 2009
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    I used 105 on a paint job that had watermarks and etching. Below is the results after about 4 or 5 applications of the 105. Is there anything more I can do to get rid of the remaining pitting?



    Sorry about the Meg Online postings, they had a free gallery












  2. #2

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    Oh, also I have a couple deep scratches, does anyone have the proper steps or a how to of applying touch up paint? i.e. where in the process of polishing would I apply it: after 105, 205, sealant? If wet sanding is needed, I would assume you have to apply a minimum of sealant on top of it?



    Thanks for the replys

  3. #3

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    What pad are you using with the 105? If you`re using the KBM, you`re probably not applying enough pressure and/or moving too quickly. Scottwax has a good video somewhere. Sometimes I find that M85 w/ Soft Buff 2.0 burgundy pad on rotary can correct what 105 can`t. It`s not often, but it happens. There`s a lot of different ways to do touch up, you`ll just have to search around and pick which jives with you. If it were me, I wouldn`t compound or polish within an inch around it. Also, you definitely do not want to apply sealant or wax before doing the touch up and would give it a good month to fully cure. Not saying don`t seal/wax the car, that`s fine, but if you apply it to the painted area before the solvents fully escape it will haze.

  4. #4

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    Orange LC pads with a 7424xp.



    Thanks for the info on the touch up paint.

  5. #5

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    Is this vehicle a re-paint? The reason I ask, is because in your first picture, I think I see DA sanding marks, in addition to overall poor preparation work. If I am correct, no amount of polishing will remove all of the defects.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by 08xB
    Is this vehicle a re-paint? The reason I ask, is because in your first picture, I think I see DA sanding marks, in addition to overall poor preparation work. If I am correct, no amount of polishing will remove all of the defects.


    agreed. looks like poor prep before the paint was laid down. you`ll run out of paint before those defects are gone.

  7. #7

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    Ah, I didn`t catch that. I just thought he was asking about etching. I didn`t bother to look at the pics and just assumed he found a Meguiars representation of etching, good catch guys. Looking at it now, they`re right on the money. My guess is there was a mix up between body man and painter. The body man probably used 320P thinking the painter would put 1 or 2 coats of primer sealer on before paint. In this case, none was used and the paint shrunk into the sanding marks as it cured. Technically they were both wrong on both sides. The body man should know by heart 400 grit is the bare minimum without risk and 600 for any dark pigmented or metallic paint....which should be done by block and hand, not DA. Body shops can often get very slack with prep on insurance work and very expedient the week before rent is due. It`s not the car owners fault either, if it was a drop off on Monday/pick up on Friday, chances are it was painted Thursday afternoon and had not cured into this current state. Most of the Joe and Jane population are oblivious to automotive technical fields, let alone paint/body. So when they get their transportation back looking shiny with no dents they`re satisfied and the body shop makes bank.

 

 

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