anyone else have a little trouble with the 105 205 combo?

[SuperBee364]

I just took a look at TOL`s website and didn`t see PrepWash. Perhaps I missed it.

I`ll be using 205 for the first time soon, so I want to be prepared for removing the oils. Any other products that I should take a look at? Would a warm water wash with Dawn work, or is this considered a no-no?

Silicone Remover

[red4.8]

I had the same problem. It was a pain in the butt. I used #105 with a 7" LC pad. I had better luck with a 4" pad.

[Scottwax]

to remove 105 hazing/holos, does a gray pad or a white pad typically work better for an average clear coat (not corvette hard, and not honda soft)

Whatever color the polishing pad is. There is no industry standard so leave out what color the pad is and focus on the cut.

[Bert]

IPA wipes don`t always do it (at least not the first three or four) but TOL`s PrepWash is pretty effective.

TOL sells PrepWash but isn`t it a product of HiTemp?

[Bert]

IPA wipes don`t always do it (at least not the first three or four) but TOL`s PrepWash is pretty effective.

TOL sells PrepWash but isn`t it a product of HiTemp?

[zaidgreat]

Your not doing something right if your getting hazing. I can go straight to wax after #105 most of the time.



I havn`t a clue about your orange pad. Give a firm pad like Meguiars maroon pad a try with 105.



Yes it is dusty!

Is your paint LSP ready after m105 with megs maroon pad?

[cjbigcog]

Thanks SuperBee! When I went to their site I looked at car care by brand >TOL Products. Didn`t see it there. Wonder what catagory it is in?

[Matt_H]

Do you guys do a IPA wipedown after m105 and then again after m205, and is it really that necessary?

[Bert]

Do you guys do a IPA wipedown after m105 and then again after m205, and is it really that necessary?

The IPA wipedowns help clean up any of the oils and carrying agents which can fill any left over swirls or holograms making it look like the paint has been correct when really it has not and you need to keep working on it.

[Make it shine!]

What mix ratio do you use for teh IPA wipe down? I am assuming its not 100% IPA. Also one you have it dilluted a bit you still spray it on the MF towel first correct?



Thanks

[Accumulator]

TOL sells PrepWash but isn`t it a product of HiTemp?

Yeah. Hi-Temp is either the TOL in-house brand or some company that Irene is otherwise closely associated with. The stuff in SuperBee364`s link *is* the right stuff.



WHOLE LOT better than Dawn washing, if only because it`s a W-O-W-O product (heh heh, it`s so effective that SuperBee364 was a little :nervous about using it that way instead of rinsing it, and the rinsing probably isn`t a *bad* idea).

Do you guys do a IPA wipedown after m105 and then again after m205, and is it really that necessary?

I only do it after the M205, but if you`re remotely concerned that the oils/etc. from M105 might be masking defects then do it after that step too.



"Is it necessary after M205?" Well.... :think: I can argue that both ways. Heh heh, in a discussion with Mike Phillips I found myself pretty much 50:50 on the subject.



*IF* you really want to have a finish that`s 100% in all lighting, then yeah, I`d say you need to get the oils off. OR you can use a product that conceals/covers them; KAIO won`t do it (doesn`t remove the oils either IME), but Autoglym SRP and 1Z WPS work OK. But those products don`t necessarily give the absolute best final look either.



But as Mike was quick to point out, nobody`s gonna follow you around with a SunGun inspecting your paint either. Well, *I* might :chuckle: IF having your finish look OK under 99% of lighting conditions is satisfactory for you, then if you don`t see a problem, don`t worry about whether you have that problem or not.



I wouldn`t be surprised if some LSPs cover up or otherwise eliminate the issue either, I`ve just never had it work that way for me (which probably isn`t saying much as I don`t have all that much experience with this stuff).



If you see the issue under *your* lighting conditions however, then you`ll probably want to deal with it.

What mix ratio do you use for teh IPA wipe down? I am assuming its not 100% IPA. Also one you have it dilluted a bit you still spray it on the MF towel first correct?

I spray it on the panel and let it dwell for a while. If you wipe it on, be sure to use enough that it gets the adequate dwell time and doesn`t just flash off without cleaning much of anything.



I`ve been using it straight, but others think it oughta be diluted. I`ve yet to hear a compelling reason why.



But again, I find IPA to be only moderately effective on the M205`s oils. After a few IPA wipes I *still* got a lot of oils off by doing a PrepWash wipedown.

[SuperBee364]

Do you guys do a IPA wipedown after m105 and then again after m205, and is it really that necessary?

Yeah. Hi-Temp is either the TOL in-house brand or some company that Irene is otherwise closely associated with. The stuff in SuperBee364`s link *is* the right stuff.



WHOLE LOT better than Dawn washing, if only because it`s a W-O-W-O product (heh heh, it`s so effective that SuperBee364 was a little :nervous about using it that way instead of rinsing it, and the rinsing probably isn`t a *bad* idea).







I only do it after the M205, but if you`re remotely concerned that the oils/etc. from M105 might be masking defects then do it after that step too.



"Is it necessary after M205?" Well.... :think: I can argue that both ways. Heh heh, in a discussion with Mike Phillips I found myself pretty much 50:50 on the subject.



*IF* you really want to have a finish that`s 100% in all lighting, then yeah, I`d say you need to get the oils off. OR you can use a product that conceals/covers them; KAIO won`t do it (doesn`t remove the oils either IME), but Autoglym SRP and 1Z WPS work OK. But those products don`t necessarily give the absolute best final look either.



But as Mike was quick to point out, nobody`s gonna follow you around with a SunGun inspecting your paint either. Well, *I* might :chuckle: IF having your finish look OK under 99% of lighting conditions is satisfactory for you, then if you don`t see a problem, don`t worry about whether you have that problem or not.



I wouldn`t be surprised if some LSPs cover up or otherwise eliminate the issue either, I`ve just never had it work that way for me (which probably isn`t saying much as I don`t have all that much experience with this stuff).



If you see the issue under *your* lighting conditions however, then you`ll probably want to deal with it.







I spray it on the panel and let it dwell for a while. If you wipe it on, be sure to use enough that it gets the adequate dwell time and doesn`t just flash off without cleaning much of anything.



I`ve been using it straight, but others think it oughta be diluted. I`ve yet to hear a compelling reason why.



But again, I find IPA to be only moderately effective on the M205`s oils. After a few IPA wipes I *still* got a lot of oils off by doing a PrepWash wipedown.

Nervous?? Heck, I was *scared*! I didn`t even dare get the stuff on the concrete.



After having used Prep Wash a bit now, I`m more impressed than ever. It really does get *everything* off of your paint. I`m not convinced that it *itself* completely evaporates, though, so I do follow it up with a very quick IPA wipe just to get any cleaners left behind by the Prep Wash.



And I gotta agree with you about the M205 "holos". A lot of what I was seeing as holos from 205 were, in fact, "substances" (not gonna use the "filling" word) left behind by 205. There were some holos, yes, but the 205 does leave behind a whitish residue that, when very little of it remains on the paint, can give you major holo effects. And it is very difficult to remove that residue with just IPA. Straight 91% IPA will do it after getting pretty jiggy with it. A Prep Wash QD followed by IPA QD gets it up fast and easy.

[Accumulator]

... I`m not convinced that [PrepWash] *itself* completely evaporates, though, so I do follow it up with a very quick IPA wipe just to get any cleaners left behind by the Prep Wash...

Yeah, gotta admit that I do that too if I`m not using something that cleans afterwards (e.g., KAIO/etc.).

..And it is very difficult to remove that [M205] residue with just IPA. Straight 91% IPA will do it after getting pretty jiggy with it. A Prep Wash QD followed by IPA QD gets it up fast and easy.

Yeah, I`m SOOO thankful that you rekindled my interest in PrepWash (AKA "Removes All", HT-203 or whatever the number is/was...) Really great stuff.



I`m using up my old jug of Removes All by cleaning out the garage washing machine`s basket and agitator with it Must`ve gone weak from age or something.

[Turbocress]

well, its actually a good thing to finally hear something about hitemp..... there is a dealer near me (not sure where it originated, i thought it was here because they do all their mixing of every product in house here...) but i will go down and pick up a bottle of their prep wash and add it to my arsenal after hearing such good things about it..



anyone else know anything of theirs that is worth it to add in??? i was a bit skeptical of buying some of their stuff after one of their guys tried to sell me their black paste wax and told me it was better quality than souvereign and blackfire waxes.... and then trying their quick detailer, turned out to be a very watery solution that streaked alot and took multiple wipes with a dry cloth to remove.... good to hear they have some good things though

[Accumulator]

While I did use a lot of H-T Extreme Cut leveler before M105 came out, and I do still like their Heavy Cut leveler/"357" for some things, the PrepWash is their only gotta-have product IMO.



Their stuff is OK, but IMO it`s kinda like "circa 1980s OK".