No joy with wool, any pointers?

**pb_foots** · 04-27-2009, 10:54 PM

I have the edge system on my Makita, and although I am far from experienced I`ve had pretty good luck with foam pads. I can usually get the paint very nice with very few holograms, although I usually use black pad on the PC to finish up, seems to work better for me. Started using the rotary about 6 months ago, a couple years with a PC before that.

I recently picked up black, yellow, blue and white (finishing) wool pads, since I was wetsanding my car after repaint and thought I might need the cutting power of the black. Also, I was very curious about them, having never tried them. BTW the car is black, and was repainted about 6 months ago. I know the paint is softer than the original GM paint, if that helps.

For the life of me I can`t get a decent result. The wetsand marks, (3000 Mirka Abralon), come out just fine and I get good gloss, but I can`t get a swirl free finish no matter what I try. Didn`t need the black pad at all, the yellow wool with Autoglym 03B and 02B worked well to remove the scratches but left some marring. I tried the blue and white pads with PB SSR1 and Autoglym 01B, and it`s still a mess. I tried low RPMs, then tried ramping it up and back down, nothing seems to make a real difference.

In frustration, I went to the PC and a white pad with SSR1 cleaned it up very well.

I am looking for some idea of how to proceed. I don`t mind trying different combos, or using different products, but I feel like I`m chasing my tail here and I don`t like it. Can anyone suggest a process for using these pads, or point me in the right direction?

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated!

**Rickymx** · 04-28-2009, 03:21 AM

I`m having problems with swirls and holograms and my paint man (bodyshop hope you understand) is going to give me autoglym 02b to use it with a foam pad.

He says its ok to finish the paint, why don`t you try to use a foam pad?

**imported_Jakerooni** · 04-28-2009, 06:23 AM

It takes a LOT of practice to be able to finish down black paint with wool to get even a remotely decent finish. 9 times out of 10 I will say that if you seriously don`t have a your own perfected method for doing it you should always go back over it with a foam pad. There are ways to do it but you have to really understand your machine, it`s weight characteristics, and how to feather it just right at the right pressure with the right pad/product combo to get it. It`s far far easier to just cut with the wool and then finish with the foam.

**gocubbies** · 04-28-2009, 07:07 AM

when i first started detailing which was like 15 years ago the dealership i was(at the time) had 1 foam pad and that was to finish with cause of how aggressive wool was. they knew you need to finish with foam. dont get discourage that is just how wool pads are. i am sure you will find out that even the most highly regarded rotary guru`s on here still finish with a foam pad.

**pb_foots** · 04-28-2009, 07:18 AM

Thanks for the responses guys. It just drives me nuts when I know I`m doing something wrong and I`m not sure what to change to fix it. Too many years as an engineer I guess, or maybe it`s just my Autopia inspired OCD? LOL...

For now I`m just going to use the Yellow and blue to remove the scratches and finish off with foam, but I sure would like to learn how to use that white pad to get LSP ready.

I`m thinking I`ll pick up some more scrap panels to experiment on. I sure as heck don`t want to end up burning this car.

**SuperBee364** · 04-28-2009, 07:45 AM

Originally Posted by Jakerooni

It takes a LOT of practice to be able to finish down black paint with wool to get even a remotely decent finish. 9 times out of 10 I will say that if you seriously don`t have a your own perfected method for doing it you should always go back over it with a foam pad. There are ways to do it but you have to really understand your machine, it`s weight characteristics, and how to feather it just right at the right pressure with the right pad/product combo to get it. It`s far far easier to just cut with the wool and then finish with the foam.

I agree (again??) with Jake.

Wool can be very tough to finish out cleanly with. I have and use the complete Edge 2K line of wool pads, but more often than not, I end up using LC Purple Foamed Wool instead of the Edge wool. PFW is MUCH easier to use. It also finishes down very well on a wide variety of paints.

I also use Edges white finishing wool. On harder paints, it finishes down to such a glow that, IMO, looks better than foam. But... it`s only on harder paints. On softer paints, wool just won`t finish down well. Even the finishing wool.

Keep at it, man, this is fun stuff!

**wannafbody** · 04-28-2009, 08:44 AM

You have to finish with a foam pad and it`s easier to finish using a PC than a rotary for most people.

**Flashtime** · 04-28-2009, 08:48 AM

After the initial wool w/compound step, follow up with the same compound but

with a foam pad (low rpms). Then it`s onto your polishing and finishing.

**pb_foots** · 04-28-2009, 10:02 AM

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

But... it`s only on harder paints. On softer paints, wool just won`t finish down well. Even the finishing wool.

OK, that makes some sense. I`ve read your reports on the white wool before, but this paint is a lot software than the factory paint.

Thanks again guys. With so many different combinations of products, pads, machines, etc. it has been a constant learning process for me. I`m enjoying the challenge, now I just need to convince my wife that everyone has dozens of bottles of different `magic goop` (as she calls it), and I`ll be fine!