A Look Into Pad Priming

**PorscheGuy997** · 06-11-2009, 12:13 PM

The idea is to eliminate as many variables as possible.

When cleaning the pad on the fly, there will be some fibers stuck into the pad. Those fibers could potentially cause swirling.

If you can, compressed air is best. There is no chance of a fiber being trapped in the pad.

**Perferd** · 06-11-2009, 12:18 PM

Just to be certain this pad priming is used for quicker and better results?

**Accumulator** · 06-12-2009, 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by PorscheGuy997

The idea is to eliminate as many variables as possible...[cotton] fibers could potentially cause swirling.

If you can, compressed air is best..

OK, that makes sense. I`m usually only doing this during the compounding stage, where it`s not an issue for me. I usually just get out new pads during more gentle polishing (also during the compounding on softer paints).

And yeah, I probably oughta use the compressor for this more than I do.

**Jason M** · 06-12-2009, 07:44 PM

I just use cotton. I have a few that have been washed to death. They give up no more fibers. On the DA I just give it a brush with a fingernail brush ( with the machine off) and then a wipe with the terry cloth towel ( also with the machine off). So far so good! I tried using a MF but it just wasn`t as absorbent as cotton for me.

I understand the idea behind not using a cotton towel. I just have not observed the downside yet firsthand I guess?

**sulla** · 05-20-2010, 03:12 AM

Does pad priming mean you should prime the pad again after you finish a section and clean it ?

**David Fermani** · 05-20-2010, 03:56 AM

Originally Posted by sulla

Does pad priming mean you should prime the pad again after you finish a section and clean it ?

Priming of the pad is only done at the initial step when using a fresh pad. After properly primed, add 3-4 small drops of product around edges of the pad and start polishing your section. After each section(pass) clean/spur/brusn/blow out your pad (removing dead paint and dried polish residue) and apply 3-4 more drops to the same pad. Once it`s primed, you don`t need tore-prime, just add small amounts of product.

Originally Posted by PorscheGuy997

The rate at which you swap pads is up to you. I may use five or more for a single step on a vehicle. The cleaner and fresher the pad, the more consistent the polishing will be. It the pad becomes saturated, you will start losing the cut.

Excellent suggestion Chris! A dirty pad also causes marring.

**jono20** · 05-20-2010, 04:01 AM

I still dont entirely understand if I should be priming the pad on my PC with QD while polishing with M105

**sulla** · 05-20-2010, 04:06 AM

Once it`s primed, you don`t need tore-prime, just add small amounts of product.

Thank you David!

Originally Posted by jono20

I still dont entirely understand if I should be priming the pad on my PC with QD while polishing with M105

If you read the first page of this thread you should only prime the pad with the polishing agent and the polishing agent only...

Where did you get the QD idea from ?

**topspin2006** · 05-20-2010, 05:41 AM

I just saw some videos on youtube by junkman2000 and he was showing how to prime the pad with QD spray and to do it often. So if I`m using 105/205, I should avoid the QD spray and just use the polish? What about pad conditioning solution?

**jono20** · 05-20-2010, 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by sulla

Thank you David!

If you read the first page of this thread you should only prime the pad with the polishing agent and the polishing agent only...

Where did you get the QD idea from ?

I think in just about every Megs or other instructional video I`ve ever watched I`ve seen them prime with QD or Final Inspection before use and anytime things get a little `dry`

**Accumulator** · 05-20-2010, 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by topspin2006

I just saw some videos on youtube by junkman2000 and he was showing how to prime the pad with QD spray and to do it often. So if I`m using 105/205, I should avoid the QD spray and just use the polish? What about pad conditioning solution?

I *never* use QDs/etc. when priming with M105/M205; I juse use the product.

I`ve used QDs/conditioners with foam pads on the *rotary* but I don`t do it with DA or RO macines.

**E300Diesel** · 05-20-2010, 12:08 PM

Having compressed air handy, along with a nylon brush ( as previously mentioned) (Foam Pad Conditioning Brush cleans and reconditions foam and wool pads on the buffer. remove excess caked wax and polish from buffing pads.) works magic. I try to clean the pad after every panel, brush the face of the pad with the brush, then blow it out with compressed air. Presto! Add your 3-4 dots of product and ready for more action. With proper care of the pad, you may be able to use only 1 pad for the whole car, for whatever step you are workign on.

**David Fermani** · 05-20-2010, 09:21 PM

Originally Posted by michakaveli

With proper care of the pad, you may be able to use only 1 pad for the whole car, for whatever step you are workign on.

I`m never so lucky. :grrr Especially with the primary correction step. I brush/wipe/blow my pad after each pass and still find them getting clogged (i.e. loosing cut) after about 2-3 panels. I almost think that the pads have a longer life span when you change them more ofter. As they get clogged/heated,they tend to fall apart faster for me.

**ThrillHo** · 05-24-2010, 02:07 AM

An other newbie quetion here, but what category do LSPs fall into? Do you need to prime the pad when applying a LSP? Or is this just for non-diminishing cutting/polishing compounds?

**jono20** · 05-24-2010, 02:26 AM

I think the basics with most machine applied LSPs is to use as little as possible while still maintaining coverage, use low speeds, and little to no pressure. A prime at the beginning definitely helps to keep the application moist though.