No, I believe he is working on some illustrations for it.
No, I believe he is working on some illustrations for it.
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You should give it a go from what you understand it to be today.
The document will clarify some technical details of what is going on and how as you are polishing.
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Wondering if someone (maybe Kevin himself, could either post or PM the execution of this method.
My brother and I have had one heck of a time with my 06 Audi A4 (freaking Audi clear!). We only have a PC. But I am about to fork out the money for a flex if we fail again!
We have quite a few different pads (mostly waffle style, but ranging in colors and sizes). Are flat pads required? Also we only have 105, is 205 a required step? The only polish we currently have is Optimum.
We are giving it another go next weekend, and are determined to get it done.
Originally Posted by Tusin
Read just a little....
Originally Posted by Kevin Brown
-The Gecko
And I asked for it to "go up" when?
I was mainly asking for insight, or suggestions. Because we are having a difficult time with my car.
If someone was to chime in and say "yeah you should really use some 205", or "flat pads are required". Then I need to place my order tomorrow, due to living in Alaska". If we are going to get the products by next weekend.
My suggestion to you would be "Read just a little...." :thx
I can assure you that Kevin has been working like crazy to get it done. To give you an idea, it is twenty-seven pages long before the addition fo the graphics. Give him some time...
Originally Posted by Tusin
No, flat pads are not required. I have used it successfully with CCS pads. However, I find that flat pads work the best. Some paints will need a follow up polish after M105. If the paint is very hard, then chances are high that you will need to follow it up with M205 or another light polish.
Originally Posted by PorscheGuy997
Noting that I always use final polishes after (original version) M105, wouldn`t *soft* paints be more likely to require a follow-up? Not that I`m likely to use M105 on my softer-paint vehicles, but I`m just wondering :think:
Tusin- On Audi clear, I used my regular mild polishes after the M105. For that matter, I just followed M105 with 1Z High Gloss on the Yukon`s hood (another pretty hard clear). While M205 is undoubtedly great stuff, it`s probably not indespensible; the M105 finishes out very well for what it is. While I`m not a big fan of Optimum, I don`t see any reason why it wouldn`t work OK; it`s not like the M105 leaves awful micromarring on Audi clear IME.
Originally Posted by Accumulator
You are correct, I think he might have just mixed up his words.
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^^I`m not sure if Porsche mixed up his words or not, but while common sense indicates softer paints will need lighter polish to finish, I have had plenty experiences where something like SIP/white will finish out much nicer on ss or soft paints than on harder ones, whether it`s holograms or swirls from the polish left on/in the harder paint and not the softer one... I can`t be the only one to experience this...
Best example would be Audi paint as hard (especially VW as it`s a b*tch to finish) and nissan 02-05 for soft...
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Originally Posted by lecchilo
Actually, funny you say that, on every new Honda Civic SI I have been able to one-step the car with SIP/white removing all or most defects as well as finishing down LSP ready.
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Originally Posted by PresdntialDtail
Is that paint harder or softer? I haven`t done many Hondas, especially newer ones.
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Originally Posted by lecchilo
Pretty soft. Though they do not seem to be as soft as the many s2ks I have worked on by a far shot. I would say they are VERY workable but not overly soft.
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^Gotcha... yea I`m not sure, but it has occurred too many times to me to ignore it... M80 is probably the one polish I`ve found to finish/work the same on both harder and softer paints.. M80 with 9006 or white LC pad that is... anything else is :nixweiss
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Hi all...
Regarding the paper (I just sent this via PM to a guy so I thought I`d steal my own stuff and post it up)...
I am diligently working on the pictures, diagrams, and graphics. Unfortunately, an hour or two after midnight is all the time I can usually muster. Any spare time I have I spend working on these additions (even if it is 20 minutes). It shouldn`t be much longer, though. Here`s the reason for the holdup:
Once I finish a graphic and place it in the already written paper, I must modify the text to lead into the graphic. Since I am having the paper proofread by two people or more (via e-mail), I wait to get their feedback on the graphic, make adjustments to the wording and then move on. Most often, another point of concern comes up, and I end up altering another section of the paper to better explain the topic in question.
Currently, the paper still has all the information about M106 and M86, but the portion relating to the random-orbital polisher has grown immensely and is being moved towards the beginning of the paper, as opposed to the end. Reality is such that if the user does not truly understand how the machine works and how to achieve best results using it regardless the liquid being used, the end result will likely be subpar.
So, while the wait is frustrating for those of you waiting to read it, there is a legitimate reason for the wait. I appreciate all the discussion and anticipation about this document. I know I am about a month behind the date I figured this baby would be posted, but it`s not too far off. I am REALLY looking forward to finishing this thing!
I knew I should have left the graphics out because of the time it takes to make them, but the paper has improved because of their inclusion.
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