well, it looks like I need to subscribe to this thread....
well, it looks like I need to subscribe to this thread....
Originally Posted by SuperBee364
Thanks for the tips.......... :up
Very interesting........
Based on e-mails from Kevin on just the pad priming, I know the document is going to be informative.
I really believe that M205 and the pad priming information alone saved me a least 1 hour on my job this weekend.
Detailing Technology - specialista vernice di correzione
so will this method cause premature failure of the PC? Pushing down hard like that, forcing the motor to work that much harder, has any experienced any failure?
Originally Posted by RZJZA80
I dont really push any harder than I used to. For me, its just going to be more hours of use on the PC. I used the rotary on about 90% of the cars I did last year.
A PC is relatively inexpensive. If I kill one PC per month doing only 4 cars, I`d look for anohter tool if the benefits outweighed the expense. If I kill once PC per year doing the 50 cars I do, then that is just the cost of doing business.
Detailing Technology - specialista vernice di correzione
Originally Posted by RZJZA80
If you use 4" pads you can only press down so much or you`ll make things way *too* aggressive, even with products/pads that`re milder than those currently under discussion (gee, guess how I know ). But you won`t hurt the PC IME.
With larger pads, if you press down too hard the PC quits doing its full random-orbit motion and just "jiggles".
So no matter what size pad you use there`s a limit to how much pressure you can (well, "can or should") apply and it`s pretty obvious/self-evident when you`re doing it.
The above is *NOT* true of the Flex 3401, at least not in my limited experience, because it won`t just do the "jiggle" thing if you overdo it so you need to be more careful applying pressure with that machine.
I`ve applied a *LOT* of pressure to my PCs over the years, too much (to the point that they just jiggled) on many occasions before switching to 4" pads for correction. And I apply a fair bit of pressure with the 4" ones when correcting Audis/etc. The PC seems to take such (ab)use just fine; the one that needed rebuilt started acting up when still fairly new and both have held up well for many years since then with zero maintenance. The one has been making some worrisome noises for years but it still works just fine so I`ve learned to just ignore the "fixing to die soon" sounds.
Rebuilding PCs is pretty cheap, at least it was when I had it done. So cheap I can`t remember how much, but I think it was around $75.
Any update to the paper Kevin was writting about his method? Or has it already been posted and I missed it?
Thanks
Zoning in on it...
Worked on it until 3 a.m. this morning.
REALLY trying to wrap this thing and post by mid-week.
If I can get it all organized and proofed by a couple people, it will be posted Tuesday or Wednesday.
Sorry for the delays.
The saying `life happens` rings true!
It will not go up until it`s final proofed and critiqued.
sent you a PM Kevin
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ditto - am subscribed to the KBM threads awaiting an update
I been out of town for a week on travel, did he post his paper yet? Not hounding him if it sounds that way, just dont want to miss it :buffing:
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