Most aggressive setup for PC?

**Bullitt** · 01-11-2009, 02:49 PM

The Cyclo and M105 with yellow wool does work for me, I just don`t like having to wipe off the residue unlike when I use the Dewalt rotary with the M105, the paint almost looks ready for LSP. I`m currently using the M83 after the 105, then following with M26 or 2.0. I`m taking on more Exotic clientele now, and they like to hear different brands thrown at them; they eat it up. With that in mind I took some advice from fellow Autopians and ordered some Wolgang 3.0 and the Zaino line. I feel like if the Exotic owners want 5 shots of Zaino, then I`ll give it to them.

I`m not trying to steal this thread, and to get back on topic, my question is can you apply Zaino with a Cyclo with good results? Which Pads?

**Accumulator** · 01-12-2009, 12:28 PM

Originally Posted by bullitt21

.. I`m currently using the M83 after the 105, then following with M26 or 2.0...

If you can get #83 to finish out LSP-ready your rotary skills are infinitely better than mine (not that *that* is saying much).

.. to get back on topic, my question is can you apply Zaino with a Cyclo with good results? Which Pads?

Sorry, dunno...never used Zaion :nixweiss. I woud *guess* NOT, as the Cyclo is about the last machine I`d apply a sealant with. Much as I love the thing, it doesn`t seem suited for that...I`d expect it to flash the Z *way* too fast, so fast it`d be hard to do a decent job. It works OK for hybrid products like 845 and NXT v2.0, but I wouldn`t try it with a straight sealant.

**builthatch** · 01-12-2009, 12:39 PM

to answer the OP...

i`ve found LC yellow 5.5 for broad areas and the little 4" pad for small areas can be pretty awesome in terms of aggressiveness considering it`s on a PC. i`ve used both with optimum compound (not hyper) and gotten GREAT results, esp correcting/lessening major scratches. just add pressure after you initially get the product spread around evenly on a lower speed, then lighten up to machine weight, kick it up to high speed and let the pad build up a little heat. just keep checking your work after each pass. you will naturally have to refine the surface after that, but i think you`ll get what your after.

**Bullitt** · 01-12-2009, 02:22 PM

Ok guys, I`m definately missing a big step after I apply the M83. What do you all recommend to get the paint LSP ready. Keep in mind that I`m trying new ideas so it doesn`t have to be Megs. Thanks

**builthatch** · 01-12-2009, 04:13 PM

Originally Posted by bullitt21

Ok guys, I`m definately missing a big step after I apply the M83. What do you all recommend to get the paint LSP ready. Keep in mind that I`m trying new ideas so it doesn`t have to be Megs. Thanks

i`ll throw my opinion out there...clear hardness dependent, gray pad and Optimum polish or gray pad with poli-seal. no hiding and should really finesse the paint for the LSP.

following the latest trend, i`m going to start going with an even softer pad and TBD product to see if it improves things even further...probably poli-seal but i`m not sure.

**Accumulator** · 01-13-2009, 09:11 AM

Originally Posted by bullitt21

Ok guys, I`m definately missing a big step after I apply the M83. What do you all recommend to get the paint LSP ready. Keep in mind that I`m trying new ideas so it doesn`t have to be Megs. Thanks

With Meg`s I`d go with #80 or M205 (no first-hand experience with the latter). Generally *I* would use 1Z High Gloss, but on super-soft paint you`d need something with a bit less initial cut.

I just never get quite the results I`m after with OP :nixweiss