Yet again, Makita 9227 of Flex 3401 RO?

**Bert** · 05-01-2008, 09:37 AM

Originally Posted by Way2SSlow

Scottwax,

I`m suprised you held out as long as you did. With the volume of cars that you do, I figured you`d have a rotary a long time ago.

It is probably safe to say that Scottwax is a little stubborn.

**Bert** · 05-01-2008, 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by buja

would you guys recommend a rotary on softer paint cars ( think japanese, honda, mitsu)

A rotary will be fine for soft paint but you will probably go no heaviear than a polishing pad (such as a Lake Country White Pad) and a light polish (such as Optimum Polish, Menzerna Nano Polish or Final Polish). Also, you may need to finish out with a finishing pad (such as Lake Country Black or Blue) and a Finish Polish (such as 3M Ultrafina or Menzerna PO85RD). Not sure about all Japanese cars having soft paint. My white Mitsubishi Eclipse is dang near like polishing a diamond.

Originally Posted by buja

what kind of pads and sizes for cutting and finishing on the above ?

Six inch or so pads should be fine. Whether you want to use foam or wool does not matter, just make sure they are no stronger than polishing pads if your paint is truly soft.

**jchambers** · 05-01-2008, 11:20 AM

well I got talked into the flex 3401. Arrives today. I will be using it this weekend on a 2002 explorer. Cant wait!

**imported_fishbonezken** · 05-01-2008, 11:34 AM

does anyone here agrees with this statement ?

" You cannot replace a rotary with a DA

but you can replace a DA with a rotary "

**SuperBee364** · 05-01-2008, 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by fishbonezken

does anyone here agrees with this statement ?

" You cannot replace a rotary with a DA

but you can replace a DA with a rotary "

At one point, I would have said "yes". Now I`m not so sure. Especially when you consider that people like Scottwax did some very fine work without using a rotary for many years, and also considering how much correcting ability tools like the Flex DA have. It kinda muddies the waters a bit.

**dsms** · 05-01-2008, 03:22 PM

Im now on both sides of the fence...:dance

Will post a comparison after I play around with the Makita for a while, I have always wanted to know how the 2 machines compare side by side

**imported_shine** · 05-01-2008, 05:50 PM

I`m currently riding the fence between a Flex RO and a rotary also. My goal is to reduce the time spent with paint correction, obviously. I have success with my UDM but it just takes too long. I`ve never used a rotary and will be doing work on cars that are not mine, which is why I am considering the Flex. The Flex is going to cost me more upfront though...

**dsms** · 05-01-2008, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by shine

I`m currently riding the fence between a Flex RO and a rotary also. My goal is to reduce the time spent with paint correction, obviously. I have success with my UDM but it just takes too long. I`ve never used a rotary and will be doing work on cars that are not mine, which is why I am considering the Flex. The Flex is going to cost me more upfront though...

I think you should go for the rotary. Already having a UDM is good because you have some experience with machine polishing and if you ever feel unsure using the rotary you could always revert back to your UDM. I just got my Makita today and have been reading that Dave KG guide non stop and have learned quite a bit. I also went to my local bodyshop and picked up 3 dark panels to practice on, so far I am not that intimidated by the rotary, im gonna take it nice and slow and work my way up.

**Rob Tomlin** · 05-01-2008, 06:42 PM

Originally Posted by shine

I`m currently riding the fence between a Flex RO and a rotary also. My goal is to reduce the time spent with paint correction, obviously. I have success with my UDM but it just takes too long. I`ve never used a rotary and will be doing work on cars that are not mine, which is why I am considering the Flex. The Flex is going to cost me more upfront though...

I got a Makita off eBay for 1/3 of what I would have to pay for the Flex RO.

**imported_fishbonezken** · 05-02-2008, 03:36 AM

Congratulations on your purchase dsms! after you practice on the hood try to get someone`s car to work on because controlling a rotary on a flat horizontal panel and on a vertical or curved panel are quite different.

I wish you all the best, you`ll be hooked to the rotary ...hehe....

**TTWAGN** · 05-02-2008, 03:55 AM

Originally Posted by TTWAGN

SuperBee364 may be able to answer this.

With the flex 3403 lightweight rotary, when you have it on the lowest speed setting it runs at 1100rpm if the trigger is held down flat.

Now this is a normal speed which is fine, however is the trigger variable, so u can effectively get the buffer to spin at 600rpm by pulsing the trigger on and off?

That would be good to spread the polish out to avoid slinging and then just pull the trigger down and go straight to 1100rpm which is normal speed. Is this the same for the Makita as well?

My Metabo cant do this which is frustrating at times as the on/off switch gives less control when spreading the polish out.

Also are you limiting the 3403 buffers to 6inch pads? I use 8inch pads with my metabo and people say its more likely to go into thermal protection than the flex 3403 ligthweight rotary. Anyone use 8inch pads?

Anyone have an answer to this??

**imported_shine** · 05-02-2008, 09:33 AM

Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin

I got a Makita off eBay for 1/3 of what I would have to pay for the Flex RO.

The 9227 is off Coastal, everything else is priced from AG. I could get the rotary off eBay a little cheaper..... Maybe I`m overdoing it on the rotary side as far as pads, but eh...I`m tired of making more orders because of forgetting stuff I should of had. What does anyone think of these two setups? Goal: safely reduce correction time...maybe not even relevant if I always start out with a mild combo with rotary..ok, I`ll stop rambling. :nervous:

**Mindflux** · 05-02-2008, 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by shine

Also the Ultra Fine white wool is a bit more costly (per the folks at edge). Not sure how much more AG charges for it.

Don`t forget to factor in shipping. With your Makita/AutoGeek combo you`ll pay 10 to ship the makita from Coastaltool and another 15+ to ship the stuff from Autogeek. Where as with your A.G order alone, you`ll spend just the shipping on autogeek.

It still comes out close though.

*Edit: I can`t believe A.G sells two 6" Wool edge pads for 19.99. I just paid 17.50 a pop from Edge since A.G was out of green when I wanted it all last week.

Ho hum. Oh well.

**imported_shine** · 05-02-2008, 09:57 AM

"$16.99, 2/$19.99" Doesn`t make much sense, but seems like deal there. Your right about shipping. I`m not sure how much the white wool is as AG doesn`t list it but they apparently have it if you call/email?

**Mindflux** · 05-02-2008, 10:04 AM

Originally Posted by shine

"$16.99, 2/$19.99" Doesn`t make much sense, but seems like deal there. Your right about shipping. I`m not sure how much the white wool is as AG doesn`t list it but they apparently have it if you call/email?

Yep.

You can see the 8" white wool they don`t do the `two fer` pricing. Some of the other 8" it`s 19.99, 2/ 36.99 (not quite the bargain as the 6").

That is quite a deal. Makes me

. Oh well. I wonder if that`s a special right now or their typical pricing.

Also why do the CCS Buffing pads? Why not grab the white/blue Edge (finishing pads) and not have to buy another backing plate? I guess if you really need the foamed it makes more sense.