`08 Tundra paint burn

**mose** · 02-18-2008, 01:05 PM

I can`t f*$%king believe that I did this!! I don`t have pics cuz I was busy throwing up from stress but I will give you the details about it.

A buddy of mine jsut bought an `08 white Tundra and wanted it debadged. I told him to come over Saturday and we could tag team it to save time. The badges came off fine with a blow drier, fishing line and mineral spirits to remove the adhesive.

The first badge came off a littel harder and had left a coupld scratches in the paint. So I was working the paint to try and get them out. Starting with a white pad and 106FF I worked the polish in and it had diminished them but they weren`t gone. Now if he hadn`t have been there I would have stopped and he never would have seen them. But I wanted to make the paint as perfect as it was on the rest of the truck and I got a little more aggresive with an orange pad and SSR 3. When I pulled the pad away after a few passes I noticed that, on the bady line from the top of the fender to the bottom, I had burned through the paint.

He wasn`t upset and asked me if I could fix it. I told him that, one way or another, I could fix it. I have fixed rock chips before with great success but this is about a three inch long burn on the body line. With it being a brand new truck I am not sure that I want to take a chance on f`ing it up any more than it already is.

So I am looking for suggestions. I thought about gettings some touch up paint in a spray can and misting it over the area and seeing how that works. I also got in touch with a guy from Aero Colors that said he could fix it for $80 but that the paint wouldn`t be as thick as the original and that I wouldn`t ever be able to polish over that area again.

I am really looking for some help here guys!! Could someone please chime in with any ideas or experiences? Thanks in advance!!

**detaildoc** · 02-18-2008, 01:16 PM

Man, sorry to hear that happen. Were you using a rotary? SSR3 is strong stuff.

**imported_themightytimmah** · 02-18-2008, 01:22 PM

I feel your pain, been there done that. Orange pads, in particular, have been nasty little paint burners on me.

I haven`t had good luck with rattle can touchups (match is *always* pretty off), your best bet is probably the Aero Colors guy. The repair area will be small, and although you won`t be able to polish it, if you tape off the area and glaze it, it should pretty much match the rest of the panel in terms of gloss and marring. See if someone can hook you up with a little Product-X, that`ll hide *anything*.

I would look at this as an opportunity to explore some new polishes and techniques - I have switched away from both SSR3 and orange pads for heavy compounding, due to various problems. Pick up some Super Intensive, 3000 grit sandpaper, and a green Presta wool pad, and I guarantee that your next deep scratch experience will go smoother and easier.

**mose** · 02-18-2008, 01:32 PM

I Was using my new Flex to polish with. I typicall stay with the Menz products....not really sure why I grabbed the SSR3.....I think I will go with the Aero Colors guy and just hope for the best.

**detaildoc** · 02-18-2008, 01:35 PM

Compound + orange pad is an almost guaranteed paint burn. I hope it all comes out ok in the end. Let us know the end result of this.

**JustinDetail** · 02-18-2008, 02:03 PM

I too have had problems with orange pads, I feel they`re just too stiff. Stick with more aggressive polishes and white or green polishing pads, those are as aggressive as I`ll go with a PC/UDM. Break out the rotary if those won`t rid the scratches, and as a member above said, just lightly wetsand out the defect, and then rotary the sanding scratches out. Good luck getting it fixed in a cost effective manner.

**imported_truzoom** · 02-18-2008, 02:55 PM

This was a PC/UDM right?

Aside from being very aggressive, would a RO/orange pad/SSR3 combo be able to burn paint? Especially Toyota paint which I have found to be decently hard..

I think some pics would be helpful.

**Junebug** · 02-18-2008, 03:55 PM

He said he was using the Flex I believe. But, I do have some experience with low profile LC orange pads and a PC, I got out some bad scratches on a Lexus with IP, but I was very surprised how HOT the paint got. I`ve never seen that before with a PC, but I checked it every 10-15 seconds so I wouldn`t have that awful OMG moment. I imagine with a much more powerful machine you really could do some nasty damage.

To the OP, I feel your pain bro, like someone said, been there -done that, except mine was with a rotary on a piece of trim - rolled the paint right off!

**SCutchins** · 02-18-2008, 04:10 PM

I hate to say it, but just suck it up to experience and pay to have the tailgate resprayed (correctly.)

**detaildoc** · 02-18-2008, 04:14 PM

Originally Posted by JuneBug

He said he was using the Flex I believe. But, I do have some experience with low profile LC orange pads and a PC, I got out some bad scratches on a Lexus with IP, but I was very surprised how HOT the paint got. I`ve never seen that before with a PC, but I checked it every 10-15 seconds so I wouldn`t have that awful OMG moment. I imagine with a much more powerful machine you really could do some nasty damage.

Lexus has ultra soft paint. Using IP with an orange pad, especially a low profile pad could be very risky even with a PC. I have a Lexus, and I never use anything stronger than Sonus SFX 2 on it with a white pad and an orange pad (only to spot treat) and it gets the job done.

Originally Posted by SCutchins

pay to have the tailgate resprayed (correctly.)

I agree!

**imported_weekendwarrior** · 02-18-2008, 06:59 PM

Sorry to hear about the accident. Does Toyota use soft paint like Lexus is typically known for?

**Junebug** · 02-18-2008, 07:18 PM

The Lexus I worked on just got orange/IP in one spot -the rest was FFII on white pad. I recently traded a Toyota Rav4 - 2007 model, I wouldn`t say the paint was all that soft.

**Old Pirate** · 02-18-2008, 07:47 PM

The wife`s 03 toyota matrix finish is hard to me. I had to use OC orange LC CCS then with SIP orange and to finish 106FF white. It took me about 10 hrs with the UDM. I first started with 106FF with a white pad and it just laughed at me so i had to step it up with a compound & orange pad to see results. But with a Flex i think one should treat it like a mini rotary, you have to be a little more careful with it because it`s not a PC. Just my 2 cents.......

**imported_Blake** · 02-18-2008, 07:48 PM

I`d be afraid that the only proper repair is a respray. Sorry!

**detaildoc** · 02-19-2008, 12:02 AM

Originally Posted by zoomzoom mazda5

The wife`s 03 toyota matrix finish is hard to me. I had to use OC orange LC CCS then with SIP orange and to finish 106FF white. It took me about 10 hrs with the UDM. I first started with 106FF with a white pad and it just laughed at me so i had to step it up with a compound & orange pad to see results. But with a Flex i think one should treat it like a mini rotary, you have to be a little more careful with it because it`s not a PC. Just my 2 cents.......

Toyotas have a harder clearcoat than their Lexus line. I tried 2x to polish my wife`s 03 Toyota Highlander with my UDM, SFX 2 and the orange pad and I barely touched those swirls. Next weekend I am going to hit it with the Flex, Menzerna IP, and the white pad. I think that will do it, if not, I will move on to the orange pad. I would never even think about hitting my ES350 with that combo. :xyxthumbs.