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  1. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by wannafbody
    Soft start really reduces splatter. I find it`s easier to finish with an orbital. As for correction, nothing compares to a rotary.


    Agree. I am not quite there where I can finish out 100% of the time swirl free with a rotary yet. Ultrafina SE is a big help but haven`t used it enough to be sure I can finish perfect so when in doubt I use my UDM or Cyclo to finish.
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  2. #17
    Super Moderator Pats300zx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by themightytimmah
    There`s something to be said for the burnished via Cyclo and 1Z MP look, particularly on SS paint - I`ve got a click and brag coming out this week where I ended up using that strategy for a number of reasons.



    On BC/CC, though, it`s hard to beat UltraFina SE. OP can be a challenge to finish out via rotary, due to its insane working time and tendency to leave marring when not totally broken down.



    If you have a good local body shop supply, it`s well worth the money to pick up a bottle of UltraFina SE and one of their blue pads. I spend atleast 6 hours a week running a rotary these days, and UF probably saves me an hour or more per detail over other finishing polishes I`ve used (no need for a IPA wipedown vs. 106ff, faster cut vs OP, just a vastly better polish than anything CG`s makes).



    Or, I hear you have the new 1Z black polishes. Let me know if you want to trade for some Ultrafina.


    Is the 1Z MP more of a cleaner/polish or one step?. I have a bottle and should really use it more.
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  3. #18
    wannafbody
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    FP2 works well as a finishing polish on a rotary.

  4. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scottwax
    ..when in doubt I use my UDM or Cyclo to finish.


    Glad that Cyclo is still being of some use I follow your machine-use advances with interest.



    Quote Originally Posted by pats300zx
    Is the 1Z MP more of a cleaner/polish or one step?. I have a bottle and should really use it more.


    Not so easy to answer because AFAIK there are *three* versions of "1Z MP"!



    There`s the consumer line one, now called Metallic Polish with Wax that`s a mild one step. It`s protection doesn`t last long though, so I think of it as a finishing polish with some wax in it.



    Then there`s the stuff I have: a 1-liter can with "Pro-Line" on the label..sorta greenish in color and *very* thick. It has some minimal synthetic protection in it but doesn`t do any real concealing that I`ve ever noticed.



    I hear there`s a new version of Professional MP that`s somewhat different from what I have (said differences elude me at presennt ).



    Whichever one you have, I`d put some durable LSP on top of it anyhow.




    Quote Originally Posted by wannafbody
    FP2 works well as a finishing polish on a rotary.


    I`ve only tried their FPI, and I didn`t like it as well as the 1Z Pro MP...but that wasn`t by rotary. My painter likes it though, so I bet others would think it`s good stuff.

  5. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by themightytimmah
    OP can be a challenge to finish out via rotary, due to its insane working time and tendency to leave marring when not totally broken down.
    Too much product.

  6. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bence
    ..[problems finishing with OP are from]..Too much product.


    That`s what I figured, but I sure wasn`t using much! Just *so* different from the PI-III stuff...



    Next time I`m gonna try just a pea-size amount and see how that works out.



    But I gotta say that at some point I`ll just get out the Cyclos...I could tinker with the M3 for another year at the rate I`m going and I need to get it done.

  7. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator
    That`s what I figured, but I sure wasn`t using much! Just *so* different from the PI-III stuff...



    Next time I`m gonna try just a pea-size amount and see how that works out.



    But I gotta say that at some point I`ll just get out the Cyclos...I could tinker with the M3 for another year at the rate I`m going and I need to get it done.


    Did you think about getting the grit discs for the cyclo? A good 4000 grit sanding or two would probably do it.
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  8. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by themightytimmah
    Did you think about getting the grit discs for the cyclo? A good 4000 grit sanding or two would probably do it.


    Nah, I never seriously considered it. If I were gonna wetsand something (it`d be the new Audi project, *if* I keep it) I`d feel more comfortable trying the Mirka system. Much as I love the Cyclos, and much as I consider 4K mighty safe, I just don`t like the idea of Cyclo-sanding.

  9. #24

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    Bence- A while back you offered to advise me regarding better finishing with the OP; rather than do it via e-mail/etc., how about posting any tips here so others might benefit from them too.



    Using a proper/minimal amount of OP and working it long enough seem like the obvious solutions, but I`d sure appreciate any additional info/elaboration you could offer.



    FWIW, I`ve watched Anthony O.`s videos at the Optimum site, but I`m not sure if his work on the Porsche front bumper cover translates all that well for me with regard to doing larger areas :think: Also, he followed up with (IIRC) Opti-seal and the PC, and I wondered if that would`ve been the equivalent of my final polishing via Cyclo.

 

 
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