Finally Tested the Flex

**Driven Auto Detail** · 02-17-2008, 12:01 AM

JuneBug - That`s kind of how I felt after a my first time with the rotary...also a long day using it. The Flex is obviously pricey, but I think you`d really like it. I feel like it doesn`t have the learning curve of the rotary, yet yields the best correction of any other RO machine.

**Bigpikle** · 02-17-2008, 12:00 PM

some interesting debate. One thing that REALLY concerns me though, is the backing plate size at 5.5". I find I use a 4" pad a lot on the UDM, for those tighter spots that are just too hard to hit with a 6 or 6.5" pad, and really cant imagine being without that capability.

How do you guys cope with that? I read that you should really use 6.5" pads minimum and while the extra speed would really do me, I just am stumped at the thought of such big pads ONLY....

**detaildoc** · 02-17-2008, 12:06 PM

Originally Posted by Bigpikle

some interesting debate. One thing that REALLY concerns me though, is the backing plate size at 5.5". I find I use a 4" pad a lot on the UDM, for those tighter spots that are just too hard to hit with a 6 or 6.5" pad, and really cant imagine being without that capability.

How do you guys cope with that? I read that you should really use 6.5" pads minimum and while the extra speed would really do me, I just am stumped at the thought of such big pads ONLY....

For tight places you can still go back to your UDM with the smaller pads. Getting a Flex does not mean you will never again use your UDM. The UDM and PC are still the polisher of choice for applying an LSP (if you like to do it by machine).

**Driven Auto Detail** · 02-17-2008, 12:10 PM

Originally Posted by Bigpikle

some interesting debate. One thing that REALLY concerns me though, is the backing plate size at 5.5". I find I use a 4" pad a lot on the UDM, for those tighter spots that are just too hard to hit with a 6 or 6.5" pad, and really cant imagine being without that capability.

How do you guys cope with that? I read that you should really use 6.5" pads minimum and while the extra speed would really do me, I just am stumped at the thought of such big pads ONLY....

Like DetailDoc said, you can still use your UDM for tight places. I have a PC that I keep a carpet brush attached so it only gets used for that. My UDM has now been assigned to "tight spot" duty. I have a small 3.5" backing plate on it and I only use it for tight spaces. My Flex is my main machine for paint correction. So, each machine has it`s place.

Since I use Optimum products, I don`t need a machine for applying LSP`s.

**Bigpikle** · 02-17-2008, 12:31 PM

Thanks for the answers - I suspected I might hear that. I do use the UDM for applying AIO, glazes & some waxes so would keep it for this most likely. I suspect I could also develop me skills somewhat and use larger pads more than I do now, especially if the BP gives you a little more control over where the pad makes contact.

Big issue is my UDM died on me half way through a major detail yesterday, it seems like many other machines are doing. I am waiting to hear back from David and Lynn, and hopeful that it will be resolved, but it still prompts me to consider `upgrading` to the Flex or making the leap to a rotary. I would very much like to save time correcting, and owning 3 cars with rock hard paint, more grunt would be a BIG benefit

I am simply put off by the learning curve for the rotary though, like many others. I am doing more and more details and am sure the time invested will pay off longer term, but I have a feeling the Flex would meet most of my needs and save me considerable time???

**detaildoc** · 02-17-2008, 07:48 PM

Originally Posted by Bigpikle

Thanks for the answers - I suspected I might hear that. I do use the UDM for applying AIO, glazes & some waxes so would keep it for this most likely. I suspect I could also develop me skills somewhat and use larger pads more than I do now, especially if the BP gives you a little more control over where the pad makes contact.

Big issue is my UDM died on me half way through a major detail yesterday, it seems like many other machines are doing. I am waiting to hear back from David and Lynn, and hopeful that it will be resolved, but it still prompts me to consider `upgrading` to the Flex or making the leap to a rotary. I would very much like to save time correcting, and owning 3 cars with rock hard paint, more grunt would be a BIG benefit

I am simply put off by the learning curve for the rotary though, like many others. I am doing more and more details and am sure the time invested will pay off longer term, but I have a feeling the Flex would meet most of my needs and save me considerable time???

You couldn`t have said it better. Welcome to the club of "my UDM died on me in the middle of a detailing job, now I am considering the Flex." David and Lynn are great though and I am sure they will take care of you. Go for the Flex.

**Junebug** · 02-17-2008, 08:22 PM

Well, I decided to get a 3.5" BP so I can use the 4" pads on my PC, I saw the need for that combo on my last detail. Thinking about the Flex, I don`t know, but you fellas that have both the PC and Flex, ya`ll know that a smaller, low profile pad gives you extra power with the PC, but with the Flex - does the extra power and forced rotation allow you to use 6.5" -7.5" pads and still get good correction? I think I already know the answer, but humor me, I`m old!

**Woob** · 02-18-2008, 02:15 AM

Originally Posted by JuneBug

Well, I decided to get a 3.5" BP so I can use the 4" pads on my PC, I saw the need for that combo on my last detail. Thinking about the Flex, I don`t know, but you fellas that have both the PC and Flex, ya`ll know that a smaller, low profile pad gives you extra power with the PC, but with the Flex - does the extra power and forced rotation allow you to use 6.5" -7.5" pads and still get good correction? I think I already know the answer, but humor me, I`m old!

I`d just stick with 6.5 pads, more control & concentration of buffing.

**RAG** · 02-19-2008, 08:36 PM

Wow, a lot of good feedback and civil disagreement. Nice.

I`ll concede one thing...until you really get the hand of it, some vehicles can be difficult to buff with a rotary...like a Toyota 4Runner or something...not hard at all for me, but I`d wouldn`t even consider teaching someone on a vehicle like that.

I won`t name the person on this board (unless he chooses to chime in) who`s Flex I used...but he came over and I let him use my rotary for about 45 minutes and he picked it up no problem, but I`ll concede that he`s got a Lexus with nice flat panels.

I also feel it`s important for most people to cut their teeth using a DA to get the general concepts down, though I have a friend who picked up the rotary and got the hang of it extremely quickly, but he has a nack for working with all kinds of tools...everybody`s different.

**Junebug** · 02-19-2008, 09:17 PM

Maybe it`s like ol Dale Earnhardt said about racing, "If you got it in you - nobody can take it away". I`m as composed as a three legged cat in a sandbox, on a good day! But, since money is tight, and I have a paid for makita, I`m still trying to learn to like it more. It`s fine everywhere except the vertical panals like doors and fenders, then I get cramps in my arms. Maybe I`ll try switching the handle to the other side, ok, one more try!

**imported_rydawg** · 02-20-2008, 01:58 AM

Nice review Ryan!

A rotary is the king of machines to me. All the rest are just safe followers. I am not saying it in a bad way, but they all try to make it safer for an average new user. With the right product, pad, and technique one can accomplish a great finish with a rotary. I have taught a lot of people on a rotary and all have said the rotary is king.

If one is just looking to do a one step then an orbital machine will work great. But if your looking to do a 2 or 3 step correction job, a rotary will smoke it in performance and finish. The gloss left behind with a rotary is breath taking to me.

**detaildoc** · 02-20-2008, 02:05 AM

Originally Posted by rydawg

Nice review Ryan!

A rotary is the king of machines to me. All the rest are just safe followers. I am not saying it in a bad way, but they all try to make it safer for an average new user. With the right product, pad, and technique one can accomplish a great finish with a rotary. I have taught a lot of people on a rotary and all have said the rotary is king.

If one is just looking to do a one step then an orbital machine will work great. But if your looking to do a 2 or 3 step correction job, a rotary will smoke it in performance and finish. The gloss left behind with a rotary is breath taking to me.

No doubts there. The Flex, as great of a machine that it is, it could never match the results left by a rotary when used by a skilled person, but as you said it, for the average user or enthusiast the Flex is king.

**maesal** · 02-20-2008, 02:53 AM

Originally Posted by rydawg

Nice review Ryan!

A rotary is the king of machines to me. All the rest are just safe followers. I am not saying it in a bad way, but they all try to make it safer for an average new user. With the right product, pad, and technique one can accomplish a great finish with a rotary. I have taught a lot of people on a rotary and all have said the rotary is king.

If one is just looking to do a one step then an orbital machine will work great. But if your looking to do a 2 or 3 step correction job, a rotary will smoke it in performance and finish. The gloss left behind with a rotary is breath taking to me.

I agree Ryan. I`ll add that you could do a 1 step job with the rotary. I do it every week. Just use a finishing pad (my favourite is the blue Propel 2) and a finishing polish and this will remove some swilrs, and will restore the shine if the conditions is not very very bad.

**Junebug** · 02-20-2008, 07:21 AM

My next job is a silver Acura TL, I`m thinking either FFII on a white pad or UltrafinaSE on the 3M blue pad. The paint is not bad, just oxidized and light spider-webbing, will be trying the ol makita again, Thanks!

**imported_rydawg** · 02-20-2008, 09:29 AM

Originally Posted by maesal

I agree Ryan. I`ll add that you could do a 1 step job with the rotary. I do it every week. Just use a finishing pad (my favourite is the blue Propel 2) and a finishing polish and this will remove some swilrs, and will restore the shine if the conditions is not very very bad.

:grinno: I can do a lot with a rotary:secret I just wish it could keep up with me.