Originally Posted by mystic04
I guess you missed my previous post?
Oh by the way, this thread is now bookmarked. TONS of good information in this thread, hehe.
Originally Posted by mystic04
I guess you missed my previous post?
Oh by the way, this thread is now bookmarked. TONS of good information in this thread, hehe.
Devil Pad
Professional Automotive Detailing
Originally Posted by SuperBee364
Yep, got it off. The WD 40 may have helped *a little*, but I really had to yank on that SOB hard before I got it off.
Like I said, it was the original backing plate, and the Makita looks like it has been fairly well used, so it was stuck pretty good.
I`ve played with my Rotary a bit more. Still trying to get everything down. I`m not sure if I am using too much polish.
How much polish (SIP) should I be using on a PFW pad? How much working time should I expect?
After the pad is primed, about four dots, each just a bit larger than a pea. I`m usually only able to get about three passes out of SIP and foamed wool. Occasionally four. Works out to be about 35 seconds or so. Working time on Menz polishes is really variable according to temp and humidity, though. SIP doesn`t normally finish out really clear like most polishes do, either. It starts to flash before it goes clear (in the dry air where I`m at, at least). It still leaves a *very* nice finish, even if it`s not clear when it`s too dry to continue polishing.
With 106FF, you should have almost unlimited working time. There`s no real point in working it after it goes clear and very oily looking, though. The abrasives are pretty much gone by then. I usually work 106 and 85RD for two minutes with foam, 1.5 minutes with white finishing wool.
Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"
Originally Posted by SuperBee364
Thanks.
Man, that working time with SIP and PFW is really short. It seems like such a pain to have to constantly be stopping to reapply more polish.
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